Our 2008 Panda 1.3 JTD has a juddering clutch when its cold, only done 36,000 miles but I'm guessing its time for a new clutch, estimates are vaying wildly between £380 and £1000 with one estimate of £480 to include replacement of the fork.

Just wondered if anyone has had a replacement clutch and what cost was involved ?

Thanks.

Clutch kit from Shop 4 Parts - https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=3170
Operating fork - https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=5520

Labour is likely to be from £200 plus VAT. It depends how easily the bolts come out. On my car, many are corroded at the bottom end due to Fiat drilling right though the aluminium. The hard oxide packed into the bottom threads can strip the threads on the way out meaning expensive thread repairs.

not an easy one to answer. The judder needs diagnosing.


I fitted a new clutch myself about a year ago it cost just over £40


I can be fairly sure it will not need an arm. On the panda they are very short they wear on the end but it does not cause any issues. Its almost impossible to bend or crack. I would ask why. Maybe they know something I dont. But sounds like a blag to me


Judder is a miss match as the clutch comes together, Contamination of the mating surfaces or radial movement of the input shaft


the fact its worse from cold I would hazard a guess its contamination.


A quick and dirty test for contamination is to purposely slip the clutch to burn off any oil. Park the car somewhere with plenty of room in front incase you accidently lurch forward. Put the handbrake firmly on. Select First and slowly try and move forward still with the handbrake on. The rear end will start to sit down. Hold it there for about 10 seconds with the clutch slipping.

does it still judder


A safer way is a visual inspection via the inspection hole on the top of the bellhousing. Under the coolant pipes. If its oily inside at least one of the oil seals has let go. Its not unknown for the Crank one to fail on the diesel and the input is common on all engines.

there are other reasons for start off judder

such as damaged engine/transmission mount. Unlikely as it gets better when hot

poor running engine when cold.

most of which can be eliminated by looking for engine movement While using the clutch.

Seal on crankshaft can leak but generally throws oil away from the clutch. Seal on gearbox shaft can track oil along the shaft which then throws onto the clutch. It's not a hard job to replace that seal but many garages prefer to fit a reconditioned gearbox.

Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated.

I will carry out the tests and checks suggested over the weekend, I understand the garage who quoted to replace the fork was following menu driven software to quote which he says gave him a labour content of 5 hours and suggested it would be prudent to replace the fork at the same time.

My caution here is that I don't want to spend money on a new clutch only for the problem to still be there after, we have owned the car from new and it hasn't be subject to abuse or poor driving habits as far as I am aware, I am surprised if the clutch needs replacing after this mileage.

Thanks again.

The Painter said:

Thanks for the replies, very much appreciated.

I will carry out the tests and checks suggested over the weekend, I understand the garage who quoted to replace the fork was following menu driven software to quote which he says gave him a labour content of 5 hours and suggested it would be prudent to replace the fork at the same time.

My caution here is that I don't want to spend money on a new clutch only for the problem to still be there after, we have owned the car from new and it hasn't be subject to abuse or poor driving habits as far as I am aware, I am surprised if the clutch needs replacing after this mileage.

Thanks again.

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the book time is 5.5 hours and engine out for some reason

however any good garage will do it under 2 hours

it can be done in 1/2 hour if someone is passing the tools but thats really pushing it

it really is one of the easiest. Takes me about 4 hour without power tool, lying on the ground and dropping the gearbox to the ground not required when working on a lift. With plenty of coffee breaks.

DaveMcT said:

The hard oxide packed into the bottom threads can strip the threads on the way out meaning expensive thread repairs.

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Yup, had exactly that problem with the big bolt that goes through the steady bracket on Becky.

koalar said:

the book time is 5.5 hours and engine out for some reason

however any good garage will do it under 2 hours

it can be done in 1/2 hour if someone is passing the tools but thats really pushing it

it really is one of the easiest. Takes me about 4 hour without power tool, lying on the ground and dropping the gearbox to the ground not required when working on a lift. With plenty of coffee breaks.

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I'm usually quite happy spannering and home servicing but I have never worked on a clutch or gearbox, is there a good guide out there, Haynes or similar ?

Look on YouTube for a clutch on a 500

I will link later on a Mobil at the moment

official method

http://4cardata.info/elearn/169/2/2009000/2000902/2001394/2752660/

you can cut a few corner

i didn't read it all. But I dont disconnect the starter motor cable just tied the motor out of the way

I only knock the ball joint out, then knocked the drive shafts out. No need to undo the hub to strut bolts


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_s-m8tjmuNM&t=138s

there's one bolt on the rear gearbox bracket that will not come out without dropping the exhaust. Dont bother with it. Just undo everything and slide it out with the gearbox. Take a photo you have to do it in reverse


all the bolt around the gearbox are different sizes. I poked them in order, into some cardboard. This was a great move and made reassembling much easier.


Its easier to put back if someone helps you. I got a neighbour to lift it up with a rope around the middle while I guided it in from underneath.

The strut is easy to remove. You need a deep angle ring spanner and suitable allen key. to remove the top nut. The pinch bolt can be a pain, but a hefty flat screwdriver will spread the clamp and the bolt can be knocked through.

The inner drive shaft joints are easy to remove with the car on a lift, but a complete pain on axle stands. I sliced a ball joint separator length-wise and welded in some 5mm thick steel to make a wider forked wedge. It took a little while but the drive shaft joints popped out ridiculously easily. Look at some of the bashed up crap on eBay they are often none too easy to shift.

The gearbox bolts which are open at the back end need to be well soaked with a really good penetrating fluid. The bottom threads get caked in aluminium oxide which can tear the threads on the way out.

DaveMcT said:

The strut is easy to remove. You need a deep angle ring spanner and suitable allen key. to remove the top nut. The pinch bolt can be a pain, but a hefty flat screwdriver will spread the clamp and the bolt can be knocked through.

The inner drive shaft joints are easy to remove with the car on a lift, but a complete pain on axle stands. I sliced a ball joint separator length-wise and welded in some 5mm thick steel to make a wider forked wedge. It took a little while but the drive shaft joints popped out ridiculously easily. Look at some of the bashed up crap on eBay they are often none too easy to shift.

The gearbox bolts which are open at the back end need to be well soaked with a really good penetrating fluid. The bottom threads get caked in aluminium oxide which can tear the threads on the way out.

Click to expand...

there no need to undo anything on the strut ?

Once the ball joint is knocked out there is enough free play to knock the shafts out.

Only two pinch bolt is required to be undone to pop the shafts out. Any more is just a waste of time


the longer offside can be split at the inner joint if needed. Just bag both ends to stop dirt entering.

shouldn't take more than 2 minutes to pop the shaft out this way.


Undo the pinch bolt and knock it out. Take a 2.5LB hammer and a piece of wood. knock the suspension arm down. Take a pair of grips and twist the metal on the inner joint boot clamp side to side until it breaks. Pull it back until it separated. Cable tie a plastic bag over each end. Quick, No banging, no force, no fuss. Less to put back.

I suspect mine was done without the plastic bag because I need a new under CV joint on the driver's side. I regreased it when the wheel bearings were done but its knocking again on power take up.