Hmm, I see.
I got the car with no history or that blue Fiat cover book thing. I saw the car, it ran and I bought it for a price wayy below market.

Compared to other cars my pandas clutch is a whole workout, every hill I encounter I worry about rolling back ( and once I did like 1 car length, luckily the driver behind knew something wasn’t right and stayed way back)

For a car with 70k miles I think the previous owner absolutely shattered the clutch.

What fluids should I look out for? So far I haven’t seen any fluids drop
Should I think about replacing the slave cylinder? Would it be easy to do or will I need to take it to garage?

2010ActiveEc0 said:

Hmm, I see.
I got the car with no history or that blue Fiat cover book thing. I saw the car, it ran and I bought it for a price wayy below market.

Compared to other cars my pandas clutch is a whole workout, every hill I encounter I worry about rolling back ( and once I did like 1 car length, luckily the driver behind knew something wasn’t right and stayed way back)

For a car with 70k miles I think the previous owner absolutely shattered the clutch.

What fluids should I look out for? So far I haven’t seen any fluids drop
Should I think about replacing the slave cylinder? Would it be easy to do or will I need to take it to garage?

Click to expand...

I would definitely get some practice in doing hill starts with the handbrake, without a rev counter you should still be able to 'feel' when the car wants to go. If you can park somewhere facing uphill, set the handbrake and slowly lift the clutch pedal until the car 'squats' or judders, release the handbrake and depending on how steep the hill is you should either remain stationary or creep forward.
It shouldn't be heavy though so best advised have a garage look at it.

Fluids, check the oil level regularly (with the car parked on flat level ground), check the coolant level in the expansion tank and it isn't going down (do not open the cap if the car has been running in the last 30minutes)

We were out in our Panda yesterday doing a "big" supermarket shopping. Mrs J is very bargain conscious and has all the "bargain" prices filed away in her head and knows which supermarket has what on offer. She's an absolute treasure and must have saved us a small fortune over the years! However it does involve visiting, of an average, at least 3 supermarkets! Luckily they are all in the immediate area so traveling distance is not great otherwise probably the cost of fuel would cancel out the savings? Lots of clutch action though in the city traffic.

Anyway, being aware of this thread, I was paying a lot of attention to how Becky's clutch felt. The clutch was renewed about 3,000 miles ago, with just over 60,000 miles on the clock, because it was juddering a little and making a slight "screeching" noise as it took up the drive - also the slave was sometimes squeaking loudly as the pedal was depressed. A 3 piece Valeo kit was used and the slave cylinder was replaced too. The release fork looked in good order so wasn't changed but the plastic bushes on which it pivots were carefully checked. When collected from the garage (our local Fiat indy) it felt a little spongy and really very light. I suspected there might have been a little air in the system due to the slave having been changed so bled it out again after about a week but there was no significant amount of air there and it didn't change the feel of the pedal to any great extent. As is often the case with a new clutch, all it needed was for the friction faces to bed down, which took around 1,000 miles. Now, around 3,000 miles later, the pedal is a little heavier but by no means "heavy" (it had felt definitely "heavy" before it was changed) In fact I like it just as it is. My Ibiza has a clutch pedal with an "over centre" type spring assistance on the pedal which makes the pedal very light indeed. At first I didn't like it and it took some time before I got used to it because it takes a lot of the "feel" out of it so makes it easier to stall the engine until you get used to it. Becky's pedal, although slightly heavier, has plenty of feel and I can't remember ever stalling her.

So, my perception is that the Panda pedal is "light to firm" to operate with a new clutch fitted but by no stretch of the imagination could you call it "heavy". However both our Becky's clutch and my boy's 1.4 8 valve Punto - so basically very similar setups - (which had it's clutch and all hydraulics replaced shortly after we did Becky's) had significantly lighter pedals after the clutches were replaced.

Can I reinforce, what everyone else will tell you I'm sure, that if you get a new clutch fitted you need to look VERY CAREFULLY at the clutch input shaft bearing/seal condition. The seal is known to leak and the bearing is known to be not particularly long lived. With the gearbox removed from the vehicle, get hold of the shaft and try to move it up and down and generally "wiggle" it about, give it a good spin too. Any sideways movement or roughness in the bearing or even a very small oil leak means you must replace the bearing and seal. This means splitting the front of the gearbox to gain access so has some substantial cost but don't ignore any indications as you'll only end up ruining the new clutch with contamination if you don't. Our garage, being Fiat specialists, are very "hot" on this but said both our Becky and my boys Punto were fine. Becky has indeed been "fine" but my boy's Punto, which is his daily driver so does about 4 times the mileage Becky does, has recently developed a bit of a "grab" to the clutch when pulling away from a stand still. This is typical of friction lining contamination so I'm suspecting we may find he's got a 1st motion shaft seal leaking. If so we'll be doing both the seal and bearing. If we're lucky we may get away with just replacing the friction plate but if the release bearing and cover assembly has been heavily contaminated with oil we'll probably just fit a new 3 piece kit.

Sorry, I meant to say also, you asked about whether the clutch slave is easy to change/renew? In the "grand scheme" of things it has to rank as "easy" when compared to changing the clutch itself but it all depends on your experience and skill level. I suspect that if you had a good selection of tools and have previously done tasks like servicing, changing brake pads, perhaps renewing a worn ball joint then you wouldn't be asking this question? So I think probably you have little experience of repairing cars? If so then be aware there is a "quick" connector between the master cylinder and slave which is often badly corroded and almost impossible to separate so this can be a problem if you need to disturb it. You will need to bleed the system through which often goes absolutely "by the book" but others have reported problems getting the system free of air bubbles. Having said that I changed the slave on my boy's Punto and had no problems at all.

This forum guide gives you a fair idea of what's involved: https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-pu...ap-air-bleeding-plus-modification-1-4-8v.html

By the way, there are some really excellent guides - at the top of each model's section - and I'd encourage you to explore them.

2010ActiveEc0 said:

What fluids should I look out for?

Click to expand...

Here's what you should check regularly until you're happy the levels are holding:

It would also be a good idea to check the level of oil in the gearbox. Undo this plug on level ground and stuck a finger in - oil should be at the level of the hole:

Should I think about replacing the slave cylinder? Would it be easy to do or will I need to take it to garage?

Click to expand...

Slave cylinders usually either work fine or leak. Clean around it and see if any fluid weeps out.

2010ActiveEc0 said:

I got the car with no history or that blue Fiat cover book thing. I saw the car, it ran and I bought it for a price wayy below market.

Click to expand...

Unless you can get confirmation, it would be safe to assume the car is still on its original clutch and timing belt.

If it is the original clutch, then it's done pretty well at 70k miles.

I don't think there's much you need to do if you can live with it as it is, apart from make sure it's not losing fluid, and be prepared for when it eventually gives up. An independent garage might charge around £400 for a new clutch.

The timing belt is overdue because of age rather than mileage.

Have a look under the black plastic cover on the left end of the engine. If you can't read any markings on the belt, or can see cracks in the rubber between the teeth, then it's old.

I understand the 1.1 is a non-interference 'safe' engine, meaning it won't cause internal damage if the belt gives up.

But obviously, as with a failed clutch, it could leave you stranded, and could do some damage to ancillaries if the belt snaps. Probably at least £200 for a new timing belt at a garage.

Timing belts and clutches can keep going for a long time, but just be aware you're possibly on borrowed time. Hope for the best, but prepare for the worst

Maybe drive it for a few months to make sure there aren't any major issues with the car, and then make a decision?

I don't mean to put you off your new purchase; it's still a great little car and these are consumable service items that are just part of car maintenance.

Some owners choose to offload cheap cars like the Panda before big bills start arriving. My car needed a timing belt when I got it. Just consider it as part of the low price you got the car for.

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

(I've probably had it for 10 years or more) I'm sure things have moved on in that time and wonder what you would recommend I buy?

Click to expand...

Yes throw it out. Its outdated and not worth the effort in all likelihood.

For a real shine.

1 Tar remover. Lash on and leave 5 mins. Lash on some more as you wipe off. 95% of the tar will go with this.
2. Autobite clay bars and clay lubricant / polish. Not hard work but a bit slow. BUT worth every second.
3. Autoglym gold label paint sealant. Polish on thinly and buff off. Safe on the plastic bits and limited residue that will wash off. This stuff works and lasts 3 to 6 months.
4. Autobrite clay lube and polish is THE most astonishing product I have ever used and its so so easy to use and works on all surfaces. I use this as a follow up. You can do the whole car in 20 mins.
5.Armorall Shield restores old plastic trim, bumpers and and window seals and is also fairly staggering as a polish. I use this on the rubber and plastic bits as its so good. It does cause rain marks though that need buffing off to maintain a streak free look.

After autobrite, I can see my face, reflected in third car, reflected in the second car, reflected in Noop. If there is one product then go for the autobrite clay lube and polish. (ebay twin packs are cheapest)

When I had a company car I used to cheat and use a product in rinsing water that had the same effect as polish in beading the water. My car used to draw comment for its clean looks. All I did was chuck a dollop into a bucket of water and throw it over the top! after giving the thing a quick wash. I think this stuff has gone awol from the shops, to easy and not lucrative enough.

Last tip. If you have hard water, add a tablespoon or two of vinegar to the washing water if using a bucket. No more lime scale marks!

2010ActiveEc0 said:

Hi all,
Hope everyone is well!

I bought a panda as my first car,

View attachment 218550

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NOW THATS WHAT I CALL A CAR. Great choice. The thinking persons Ferrari!

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

I know you will want to make your first car truely yours, - the first mod I did to my 1964 850 Mini was to put a wee flag pole on the bonnet so I could fly a skull and crossbones flag!

Click to expand...

I want to see a picture of that! That is an excellent mod, Jock!
Makes me feel far less stupid about the daft decals I've stuck on mine Although I saw a member has a 'Superleggera' script on their 1.1 Active... and I'm tempted...:chin:

rmjbn1 said:

I want to see a picture of that! That is an excellent mod, Jock!
Makes me feel far less stupid about the daft decals I've stuck on mine Although I saw a member has a 'Superleggera' script on their 1.1 Active... and I'm tempted...:chin:

Click to expand...

Somewhere I have a picture of my best friend - at the time - holding the flag out at right angles to the little flag pole to display it. If I can find it I'll post it on here. My pal, who I haven't seen for many years, will be old and wrinkly like me so impossible to identify from his photo.

Isn't it strange? I can remember things from years ago but not relating to yesterday or even, sometimes, whether I locked the front door when we came in from shopping. Then, having checked I did lock it I sometimes have to unlock it again because I can't remember if I locked the car! Anyway, the little yellow Kodak pocket folder of photos was exactly where I thought it was! After blowing off the dust I found a couple of good photos of the car and immediately realized I'd mixed it up with my 1275 "S" - both of which were white with black roofs - surely the only colours for a Mk1 Mini? - but the Cooper was on a "B" plate whereas this one was pre 1962 so didn't have a "letter" number plate. "So", as the kids all say these days, here's my friend Joe holding out the flag:



I decided, after some thought, to obscure his face, just really because I'm a bit obsessed with on line security myself. You'll notice also the "snazzy" echelon bonnet stripes? All masked up and spray painted with a black gloss spray can - took ages to do the masking up! also notice that I've removed the hubcaps all of which I'm sure helped it to go at least half a mile per hour faster, but which was probably more than negated by the aerodynamic drag of the flag? Wish I still had the hubcaps because they were the original, finger shredding, stainless steel, one piece items which I believe are in great demand these days as they were quickly replace with the chrome plated type. My biggest financial investment however was in a pillar mounted swivelable spot light - which you can see in this shot:



Many of the rally cars had them in those days to read road signs etc. I bet that really ruined the aerodynamics but I thought it was just the "bee's knees". My mum always thought the two of us looked quite comical in the "wee car" as she called it. Joe was a tall bloke, well over the 6 foot whereas I've always been quite short - even shorter now since they lost me an inch or so when they reassembled my legs with complete replacement knees!

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

I decided, after some thought, to obscure his face

Click to expand...

That not the right way to wear a covid mask!

That looks the business, Jock, whatever your mum might have said

I'll bet those bonnet stripes took a long time to mask out! They look good in the pictures though, so I'm sure it was worth the effort - quite distinctive!

Can I ask, what was the inspiration behind the echelons? They made me think immediately of Piers Courage's racing lid. And then the black & white livery puts me in mind of the Border Reivers racing team...

But it's the kind of personalisation that I like seeing on a car - it shows above all that it's cared for.

There are few neglected 169 Pandas in my new neck of the woods, with the odd missing / broken wheel trim showing rusty wheels and brakes - they can look a bit sad. A little bit of effort can really transform their appearance

rmjbn1 said:

Can I ask, what was the inspiration behind the echelons? They made me think immediately of Piers Courage's racing lid. And then the black & white livery puts me in mind of the Border Reivers racing team...

But it's the kind of personalisation that I like seeing on a car - it shows above all that it's cared for.

Click to expand...

I can't now truly remember where the idea for the bonnet stripes came from but it may well have been from a set of side stripes I'd seen - they were all the rage back in those days, do you remember them? - I thought they looked good.

Border Reivers, Piers Courage, Ecurie Ecosse, etc all names I know well. How about the Hawick and Borders Car Club?: http://www.hawickandbordercarclub.co.uk/ I competed in my very first sprint/hillclimb under their auspices at Stobs Camp in my Cooper S and, to my astonishment, managed to almost wear out a set of new front tyres in the one day.

2010ActiveEc0 said:

Hi all,
Hope everyone is well!

I bought a panda as my first car, the main reason I decided to go the Fiat panda route is that it is cheap to insure for a new driver and low road tax. I bought it at the start of this month and I love it!

Since I own the bog standard version I want to “mod it”. I replaced the radio with a Bluetooth unit I bought from eBay for just £10.

Has anyone added remote locking to their panda?
Would tinting the rear windows look good?

Hope to hear back from someone in this forum!

View attachment 218550

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Hi,

Thought I'd comment as I've just bought the exact same model as my first car - 2010 Active Eco. Not going to touch it but thinking about replacing the stereo with a bluetooth model. Love driving the car and the adventure of finding the sweet spot on the clutch.

I've experienced some issues so far but nothing that has stopped me from driving or made me want to go to a garage, has about the same mileage on the clock as yours. I haven't experienced any sticking issues with the clutch though, it comes up quite smooth. The brakes are a bit slack though so I wouldn't want to be stopping suddenly.

napolimp said:

The brakes are a bit slack though so I wouldn't want to be stopping suddenly.

Click to expand...

Welcome and it's nice to hear you are enjoying your Panda - is it your first Fiat? Ours is a 2010 as well but it's a Dynamic Eco with the 1.2 litre engine. When you say the brakes are "a bit slack" do you mean the pedal is going down rather a long way before the car starts to slow? If this is what's happening then almost certainly the self adjusters on the rear brakes have stopped working. Usually they can be freed up and made to work again but it's probably a good idea to look at them sooner rather than later as a "few bob" are involved if you need to replace them if they are beyond saving.

Just a wee thought. If the handbrake cable has been tightened too much then the self adjusters will stop working. Maybe this is what's happened and if so all that's needed is to properly reset the handbrake cable tension.

The front brakes are pretty basic and easy to sort out but, again, if neglected, they can start to seize up. A wee bit of regular maintenance once a year at service time and you'll likely never have a problem with them.

Ps. sorry about the "first Fiat" question I just noticed you said it's your first car! Both my younger children had Pandas as their first cars!

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Welcome and it's nice to hear you are enjoying your Panda - is it your first Fiat? Ours is a 2010 as well but it's a Dynamic Eco with the 1.2 litre engine. When you say the brakes are "a bit slack" do you mean the pedal is going down rather a long way before the car starts to slow? If this is what's happening then almost certainly the self adjusters on the rear brakes have stopped working. Usually they can be freed up and made to work again but it's probably a good idea to look at them sooner rather than later as a "few bob" are involved if you need to replace them if they are beyond saving.

Just a wee thought. If the handbrake cable has been tightened too much then the self adjusters will stop working. Maybe this is what's happened and if so all that's needed is to properly reset the handbrake cable tension.

The front brakes are pretty basic and easy to sort out but, again, if neglected, they can start to seize up. A wee bit of regular maintenance once a year at service time and you'll likely never have a problem with them.

Ps. sorry about the "first Fiat" question I just noticed you said it's your first car! Both my younger children had Pandas as their first cars!

Click to expand...

Hi,

Thanks for the message.

Yes exactly, the pedal does have to be depressed a fair bit before the car slows. Funnily enough I posted a question about a rattle at the back of my car, and it's at its worst when the handbrake is on with the car facing downhill. Don't know if it's just a coincidence with what you've just said but may be connected?

I'm taking to a family friend who's a mechanic on Wednesday so hopefully they can diagnose and look at the brakes. I got my MOT coming up later this month too so I assume any issue with the brakes will also be flagged then.

Do you know how much I'd be looking at if the self-adjusters need replacing? I was hoping to get a good year or 2 out of the car without having to spend too much on repairs.

napolimp said:

Do you know how much I'd be looking at if the self-adjusters need replacing? I was hoping to get a good year or 2 out of the car without having to spend too much on repairs.

Click to expand...

Fingers crossed your mechanic can reset the adjusters / handbrake to sort out your brakes.

If the adjusters are damaged or not working correctly, they'll need replacing.

There are some great deals on the full rear brake kits (both wheel cylinders & sets of shoes assembled with adjusters and springs).

About the best I could find for the full set is Febi 38746 for under £70 delivered:
JD Motorsports
Simply Car Parts / www.simplycarparts.co.uk/products/38746

There are sometimes bargains on these at Euro Car Parts, so worth a check.

Chances are you'll need all the parts of the kit at some point and it'll work out cheapest this way. Febi Bilstein is a good brand I would trust.

I'd normally recommend Shop4Parts, but the adjusters on their own are over £80 there. Cheap copies are to be found on eBay for £20-ish, but I'm not sure I'd want to take a punt on brake components.

What colour shall I paint the Steelies?

Hi again,

I’m enjoying my panda so far, but I think it’s time that I paint my steelies.
I was thinking about painting them white but since the car is silver it won’t look good.
Or maybe some alloys, I saw some mini bbs wheels on Facebook market place but I don’t think the insurance company will enjoy that



Here is a picture of my car, as the car is silver it is hard to decide the right colour for the steel wheels.

Re: What colour shall I paint the Steelies?

I'd suggest you just stick with the standard steel wheels and 155/80 R13 tyres. This will give you the best ride, best economy, least amount of suspension wear, lowest risk of pothole damage and fewest insurance hassles. I've a Panda that's done over 100k on this wheel/tyre combination that's still running all its original steering & suspension components.

2010ActiveEc0 said:

Here is a picture of my car

Click to expand...

A smart, clean looking car. It looks great just the way it is.

2010ActiveEc0 said:

as the car is silver it is hard to decide the right colour for the steel wheels.

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Your car is silver, with black highlights. IMO the best colour for the wheels is black, with silver trims, just the way it left the factory - introducing a third colour will just make it look cheap and chavvy.

Low maintenance, too.