Hi,
The front brakes on my Panda 2009 1.1 Active were both binding so I've cleaned all the rust off the reation frames, fitted new seals in the calipers and fited new brake pads. I bled both sides and have a solid pedal feel.

The LH brakes are now working properly, the RH side is still sticking on a little. I can push the piston back in with my thumbs and the caliper is sliding freely on the guide pin but when I press the brake pedal the caliper doesn't seem to release fully.

Can anyone suggest anything I may have missed, or next steps please?

If when rh wheel jacked up off the ground and you spin the wheel by hand does it stop immediately you let go?
Or continue turning a little?

If you go for a drive does the rh disc get very very hot or just warm?

The wheel continues a very small amount and the disc gets hot enough to be uncomfortable holding a finger on it. It's definitely 'warm' rather than 'red hot', haven't been over 50 mph.

nei12000 said:

The wheel continues a very small amount and the disc gets hot enough to be uncomfortable holding a finger on it. It's definitely 'warm' rather than 'red hot', haven't been over 50 mph.

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Does the lh side feel warm after the same drive?

Did you pay particular attention to cleaning up the sliding surfaces of the caliper, where the pads rest?

I used a wire brush on an angle grinder to get rid off all the rusty build-up. Drill wasn't enough to get mine smooth. Then reassembled with plenty of copaslip.

There's a great guide to cleaning up the front brakes here.

I guess the pistons shouldn't be too rusty if you can push them in by hand?

The LH feels 'normally' warm, eg as you would expect from normal braking for junctions and slowing down to pull onto the drive.

I gave the parts where the pads sit a good cleaning and brake greasing. The pistons looked in very good condiition when I put the new seals in, the car has only done 34k.

nei12000 said:

The LH feels 'normally' warm, eg as you would expect from normal braking for junctions and slowing down to pull onto the drive.

I gave the parts where the pads sit a good cleaning and brake greasing. The pistons looked in very good condiition when I put the new seals in, the car has only done 34k.

Click to expand...

If the right hand is significantly warmer than the left there may be a small problem.

Are the rh pads a very light sliding fit in the frame?

Did you grease the seals in the caliper with anything when you replaced them? If yes what grease?



I don't think you have a big issue but understand you wanting to sort it out.

Thanks for all the replies!

The pads are a light fit, they fall out of the frame when you lift the caliper up!

I used a smear of red rubber grease on the seals when I put the new seals in the calipers, and a little bit on the piston when I pushed it in, I could push the piston in with thumb pressure.

nei12000 said:

Thanks for all the replies!

The pads are a light fit, they fall out of the frame when you lift the caliper up!

I used a smear of red rubber grease on the seals when I put the new seals in the calipers, and a little bit on the piston when I pushed it in, I could push the piston in with thumb pressure.

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I don't think you have done anything wrong at all.

If you have fitted new pads and or discs at the same time it could just be bedding in.
Carry on using it just keep an eye on it.

a small amount of air in the system will compress. and will stop the pads realising fully.

different bleed methods have different success rates for me


pedal pumping and vacuum have a greater success rate than an ezeey bleed system for me.

Not saying this is your problem just a possibility

koalar said:

a small amount of air in the system will compress. and will stop the pads realising fully.

different bleed methods have different success rates for me


pedal pumping and vacuum have a greater success rate than an ezeey bleed system for me.

Not saying this is your problem just a possibility

Click to expand...

That's really interesting, hadn't thought of that, I will bleed again in the morning

If there's enough pressure to apply the brake, an air bubble in the caliper probably wont make much difference. However if the rubber hose has collapsed internally the lining can create a non-return valve which causes the brake to bind.

Disc brakes hardly move the caliper piston between on and off. The square section piston seal springs enough to pull the piston back when pressure is released. It distorts like a parallelogram when pressure is applied. The piston gradually slips through as the pads wear. Red grease is fine but silicone grease is just too slippery. The pads push out but don't pull back causing the brake to bind.

I fitted HEL braided hoses to mine. Standard spec replacements at the front with 600mm long lines at the back. One line (each side) goes from the chassis hard pipe all the way to the brake. You get a harder pedal feel but you quickly adapt.

its hard to judge any drag of the front wheels by spinning as there quite a bit of drag from the differential. Unlike the rears which spin freely

They should be of equal temperature though. If there not it needs sorting.