Technical dropping the gearbox out

[koalar]

I see people are changing the clutch without popping the drive shafts out of the gearbox.

some are

disconnecting the lower ball joint Taking the clamp off the inner CV boot and sliding the drive shaft in two. Leaving a short piece of the drive shaft connected to the diff. Then reassembling with a zip tie


I can see some advantages

its quicker

less disturbance so less likely to leak from the the diff seals


there must be some disadvantage which I am overlooking ?

 

[varesecrazy]

Dirt ingress..

 

[dac69er]

you could clean it all up spotlessley and regrease, it will be messy, but if there is any worry with dirt ingress, that would stop that.

i did it without popping the shafts out, but in hindsight i should have probably just done it and replaced the seals as one has a slight leak now anyway due to age

im not sure how easy the shafts are to get out? some cars are a right nightmare???

regarding the re-install, you can use a proper cv boot clip rather than a cable tie if you want the OEM style reinstall

 

[portland_bill]

The gearbox will be lighter with the oil drained, and a clutch change is an ideal time to replace the gearbox oil. It is also lighter without bits of drive shaft dangling out of it. Once the shafts are out of the box, an old sock each side will keep dirt out. Removing the CV gaiter is such a messy job, and the grease attracts dust like a magnet. I think splitting the shaft is a bad idea, unless a new gaiter or CV joint is needed.

The CV inner circlip is usually stronger than the one in the gearbox, so harder to detach and refit.

The gearbox seal on the right side is above the exhaust. It hardens more than the left one, so also a good opportunity to replace it.
My experience of popping the drive shafts out of the gearbox is one of hair tearing and disbelief.
The left one popped out easily.
The right one refused. For several hours, with breaks to swear and consume tea. Then it just popped out like the left one. No idea why, it was just fighting, like things do occasionally.
They both popped back in easily.

 

[koalar]

The CV inner circlip is usually stronger than the one in the gearbox, so harder to detach and refit.

I have just done this there's no circlip

if the clamp is cut on the wide side of the boot it just slides apart.

did pop the drive shafts out. But noticed the boot clamp had been cut. probably when the gearbox was changed. Had a look and didn't like the look of the grease. So cleaned and repacked. Putting it back together I tried putting the short bit of inner drive shaft in First then slid the CV joint back. Very easy. If I was just doing the clutch I would separate the CV and plastic bag the ends. No messing with chisels at all. Just have to be careful one of the bearings doesn't fall off.


probably

 

[portland_bill]

The outer CV joint, at the wheel should have an internal circlip to retain the shaft in the joint. Without this the shaft can move, wearing the splines, necessitating a new shaft sometime, not just a CV joint. There's a theory that the shaft could fall out, but suspension movement is not enough for this.

The joint at the gearbox, is not a CV joint. It has three legged 'spider' with bearing on each leg. Originally called a tripode joint, usually now the 'e' disappears and it becomes a tripod joint. The tripod is held onto the shaft with a circlip, but the joint is held into the housing only by the gaiter. Like the outer CV, even with a shredded gaiter it cannot escape, as suspension movement is not enough.
This inner joint has a different lubricant than the outer CV joint, a thick oil, (or runny grease), although most boot kits contain the same black (molybdenum disulphide) stuff as the outer kits. The correct stuff seems to be available only in 300g tubes or larger, which is why DIY does not use it.
https://www.demon-tweeks.com/gkn-tr...ZugeqYuex8o1sytmFiAaAmHxEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
£40 for four joints, if it will sit on the shelf until needed a second time. If I ever need ot pop mine apart, it will get the correct stuff. Used to be available in single joint sachets when Rover had dealers. Introduced with late 1100/1300 mid seventies, when they changed from the rubber spider to tripode joints.

 

[koalar]

I used MOS2 bet its fine for the next 12 years and about £5 a tub will last you a life time.

just seem to somehow find itself everywhere

 

[koalar]

you could clean it all up spotlessley and regrease, it will be messy, but if there is any worry with dirt ingress, that would stop that.

i did it without popping the shafts out, but in hindsight i should have probably just done it and replaced the seals as one has a slight leak now anyway due to age

im not sure how easy the shafts are to get out? some cars are a right nightmare???

regarding the re-install, you can use a proper cv boot clip rather than a cable tie if you want the OEM style reinstall

just replaced the diff seals. one of these was annoyingly tight. A tyre lever was at its max before it would budge


i have a long thin punch. It just fits over the top to knock out with a 2lb club. Because its so close to the lowest point of the bellhousing its hard from underneath with a hammer and chisel as most of the force is going verticaly not horizontally

 

[dac69er]

just replaced the diff seals. one of these was annoyingly tight. A tyre lever was at its max before it would budge


i have a long thin punch. It just fits over the top to knock out with a 2lb club. Because its so close to the lowest point of the bellhousing its hard from underneath with a hammer and chisel as most of the force is going verticaly not horizontally

My worry exactly.