Hi, it's been a while since I've posted a question in the panda section as the little friend has been reliable for years (or at least fixable with no major thought needed).

Issue started with me changing the windshield - I likely messed up the install, and smudged the goob, so a tiiiiny amount of water could get in, over the summer this was a non-issue as the heat evaporated it instantly and I didn't even notice it. Now she's been sitting idle for a month or a bit more in the driveway (who needs the backup-car in these corona-times?!?) but yesterday I wanted to take it out for a spin and :yuck: the passenger side footwell (right hand side, Danish registration) was soggy full of water - no problem, in my braindeadness I thought I'd just run it good and hot to evaporate all the water (those mentioning heatguns, or towels or other sensible solutions can talk with me on the day after who went that route...)

Anyway... after 20? minutes at 4500rpm+ it started complaining - red steering-wheel, and some of the orange lights (hill assist and esp) - parked it for the night to not cause further damage.

Today non of my codereaders (that normally talks nicely to it) will function with it - I'm guessing the power is missing (but all the fuses I can find seems intact, under bonnet and the dash)

The issue seems to come on after a moment, or two, not instantly - is it a relay or a the alternator being boiled? or could it be the ECU that's boiled? I wanted to ask before I change the alternator and start probing the canbus network :idea:

for now the battery is being recharged outside of the car to rule that out... any thought or input would be highly appreciated


Tobias

Charging the battery is a good start.

Check the various earth connections for corrosion - there's one on the engine scuttle in the centre, just near the windscreen.

Check your scuttle drains are clear - there are two rubber grommets (about 50mm long x 20mm wide x maybe 30mm deep) that allow water to drain out of the scuttle area (where the wiper motor sits) and drip down onto the ground - they tend to block up after a few years and then water builds up in there. Take care not to let these grommets pop out when you push the mud out of them - they can be fiddly to put back in.

I don't know why your code readers don't work now. Maybe someone with a proper wiring diagram will know about the fuses.

Does the engine check light come on like normal when you turn the ignition on


If it does then its likely there will also power to the obdii connector


Assuming the contacts are okay there will be a short in one of the sensors


I would start by unplugging the brake switch and then try and scan then the ABS

Do check the heater air intake water drains in the scuttle below wiper motor.

I had some electrical problems over the summer when my car had sat unused for weeks. Battery was fully charged, but I was getting steering errors on the dash display and the engine would not start. The OBD socket refused to work so no clue as to what was really going on.

Every fuse was pulled and tested (at least three times) and every relay pulled and tested with a 9 Volts PP3 battery. I have never confirmed the cause but the car did work again and the OBD port came back to life. So best guess is a faulty relay - probably the one that powers the OBD port. Along the way I rebuilt the ignition switch and checked wires around the steering column. All was ok.

Suggest you pull every relay and click the contacts with a 9V battery put them back and see what happens.

This helps?

When the scuttle drains are full on RHD models, water leaking into the car can hit the ECU, causing lots of random issues. Quite possible on LHD too I guess.

Great suggestions, thank you for tsking the effort to contribute! I really appreciate it!

My first thought was insufficient power supply - potentially a worn alternator or a slightly melted cable. But i dont see why this would cause the obd port to not have power (if its linked at all and not just several issues all at once)

I dont think the scuttledrains were blocked, as i recently exchanged the windshield and vacuumed everything, even inside of the dashboard where you cant nornally see, but will doublecheck when i put the battery back in.

Im sure the wiring diagram will be of great help if i need to hunt canbus errors - it could be the motor ecu, which sits right next to the air filter box in a reasonably hot and dry spot... At least easy to check.
A relay seems likely (but which??) as the panda behaved completely like normal until i started driving and turning.


The panda is normally such a delight to work on, no 5 layers of unnecessary plastics or specialty tools needed, though Im not super with electrics (yet) so i have to say im dreading this bughunt a bit... But if the electronics are as simple as the mechanics (looks it from the wiring diagram) i should put my fear away and hope for a dry day soon.

Again thank you for the contributions this far!

Yeah, mine leaked due to blocked scuttle drains this year before I knew about it, and it does dribble down around the body control unit. If I remember right there's fuses in there.

The scuttle drains will make a few minutes to check. Open the bonnet and look into the heater air intake. Squeeze the rubber outlets (duckbills) and see if water runs out.

It seems it was a flat battery, after charging i had no issues during my test drive, which to be fair wasnt the longest drive ever, but enough to get the thermostat to get to indicate midle, which is where its always at for driving..and it was the trip i need the car for (going to daycare and back) so for now ill call the main issue resolved, as it can drive...

If you have some idea where the screen seal might be leaking it can be sealed with a tube of "Tiger Seal" or similar polyurethane body sealant. It's also an amazing glue and even works on kid's school shoes.

DaveMcT said:

If you have some idea where the screen seal might be leaking it can be sealed with a tube of "Tiger Seal" or similar polyurethane body sealant. It's also an amazing glue and even works on kid's school shoes.

Click to expand...

I know exactly where i messed up [emoji28] im considering to just take it off again and remount it correctly... With a risk of breaking it and having to buy a new one, (it was the first windshield i ever changed, but did another succesfully since) - and i would need a tube of some polyutherane goob for that as well... Im unsure of how to get to the spot without removing the windshield as its top right on the A-pillar behind the airbag and head lining.

you could try 'Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure' (I know!)
its used on Motorhomes caravans and boats, its not to expensive and if it solves your leaky windscreen even just for winter, might be worth a go.

09 johno said:

you could try 'Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure' (I know!)
its used on Motorhomes caravans and boats, its not to expensive and if it solves your leaky windscreen even just for winter, might be worth a go.

Click to expand...

Thats brilliant, and i would definitely give it a go if the opening wasnt at the top [emoji28] im even wondering about just putting a tarp over it when its parked for now... As I lend it out yesterday and it came home on a flatbed with only what I can make out to be 3rd and 4th gear.. so well water ingress is propably the next fix after it can drive again [emoji85]