Hello,

My sump is on its last legs being very rusty.

On having a look a simple replacement, looks less so.

1/3 of it is within the clutch housing, I've read other notes saying to remove the lower housing but this doesn't seem possible without taking the whole gearbox off?

Has anyone done this task on the 1.3 diesel panda, is there a simpler way?

Thanks,

I did mine the other week and you don’t need to remove the gearbox. The gearbox has a big bracket that’s wrapped around the sump at the end and its just a case of removing that. The worst bit is removing the exhaust.

The sump will be stuck on with the proper silicon gasket which is a bugger to remove. A few tips, remove all bolts apart from a couple either side and slackened, and prise the sump off with large flat head screwdriver, in doing this you won’t have the sump crashing down on you. When fitting new sump make sure mating surfaces are clean. Fit sump, do not fill with oil, leave overnight. It’s a messy job, but if you follow this, it will make things a tad easier and less messy. Good luck.

I have not used it on this job so forgive my suggestion.
Loctite Anaerobic gasket sealant will fill gaps up to 0.25mm, works on steel, iron and aluminium. It cures only when air is excluded so you don't have to rush the job before it starts to skin over. Any excess will not clog oil strainers or worse. Make sure all bolt holes have a 360 ring around and the bead is continuous. I've used it on engine rebuilds and never had it fail. Sadly I have not used it on a Panda sump.
Ask me again when the 1.2 needs doing (as it will one day).

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/uk/en/product/flexible-sealants/loctite_518.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-...157393?hash=item52348fcc11:g:OYcAAOSwtPJfIBEH

Hello,
Thanks, will take a closer look, if the bottom part of the gearbox case come off im all ok. Yes the exhaust is another issue, mines likely rusted in place.

Hello,

I have bought a sump gasket, though on here most use sealant, wont this ease things or is sealant better in the long run?

I cheated and cut the exhaust just forward of the front bracket on the gearbox and welded it back on when I had done the sump. Shop4parts do a pattern part sump pan and the correct sealer for the job.

Multiodd said:

Hello,

I have bought a sump gasket, though on here most use sealant, wont this ease things or is sealant better in the long run?

Click to expand...

Sealant is the way to go, it seems engine builders recommend this method. If you give the sump a few coats of metal paint and do it properly, the sump should last how long you own the car.

Sump gaskets have the snag that slightly too much bolt torque will compress the gaskets and distort the pressed steel sump pan. It will then never seal properly and the minimal tightening torque risks the screws shaking loose. Sealants fill the gaps between the opposed metal faces - including the all important corners near the crank bearings/seals.

I wasnt awate there were gaskets available..??

The steel pans are just bonded in place by sealer not unlike toothpaste..big thick bead..has to cure overnight


My sons sump pan.. grande mj is MEGA crusty..

But:

Its RED RUSTY.. if its not mildly BLACK from the diesel oil.. it is obviously sound

Thanks for the info,

A thought that is will be a quick job has infact turned to more issues than I first thought.

As long s the bottom of the gearbox casing comes off the 4x4, I can get to the whole of the sump.

Then to exhaust which goes directly over it, I doubt it would come off being so rusty too.

I may have a go at cleaning to rust off and painting, the risk is how thin the sump as got.

I’m not having a go here but including myself we tend to be surprised when a job needs doing on your car and and find how rusty things have become Rust is the one thing that limits work for some when working on your vehicle, even if you soldier on, things take far longer than anticipated.

When I work on my vehicles, the jobs that I can manage these day, I tend to go further by cleaning and lubricating the surround areas, and let’s face it, if your vehicle is a few years old, you tend to find other things need attention.:bang:

Not a great copy and paste from learn. But the torque settings are there plus a tip on not sliding it sideways

There's no gasket


Sealant isn't listed but is mentioned to be silicone



1nm is less than most torque wrenches can measure. Its unbelievably slack


And wait an hour before refilling


Rotate the engine on the overhauling stand.
1. Undo nuts (1a) and bolts (1b) securing the oil sump to the crankcase.
2. Using the tool (2a), cut the silicon sealant along the entire perimeter of the oil sump.

Name
Country
2a
Blade
1.870.718.000
3. Remove the engine oil sump.

Refitting ( Removing )
Clean any sealant residues from matching surfaces of sump and engine block.
1. Apply an unbroken strip of the recommended sealant to the entire perimeter of the crankcase sump as shown in the figure.

Ensure a perfect join between start and end section.

Type
Component
Name
Qty.
1
Sealant
CRANK CASE PLUGS
Loktite 270
-
2. Refit crankcase sump (2a) and secure by tightening bolts (2b) and nuts (2c) to the specified torque.

When fitting the crankcase sump, avoid major sideways movements which may remove the sealant.

Fastening
Component
Ø
Value
(daNm)
2b
Bolt
OIL SUMP
M6 x 1
1

Fastening
Component
Ø
Value
(daNm)
2c
Bolt
OIL SUMP
M6 x 1
0.7


Wait at least 1 hour after fitting the engine block sump before replenishing it with engine oil.
- 1004D40 engine - position on stand and remove .

Hello,

Its the bits getting to the sump that are a concern, the sump looks heaven in comparison

If you look at my photos, it seems the whole of the lower part of the gearbox will come off allowing access to the sump?

Once this is off if it come off, then Ill need to remove the catalyzer, this looks rather rusted onto the turbo however :-(

That’s why I cut the exhaust forward of that front bracket.

Multiodd said:

Hello,

My sump is on its last legs being very rusty.

On having a look a simple replacement, looks less so.

1/3 of it is within the clutch housing, I've read other notes saying to remove the lower housing but this doesn't seem possible without taking the whole gearbox off?

Has anyone done this task on the 1.3 diesel panda, is there a simpler way?

Thanks,

Click to expand...

That looks ok

Just wirebrush the loose scabs and repaint

As I said elsewhere it would have BLACK patches if it was porous

Made out of biscuit tins. Mine had a damp patch on a rust scab and an oil stain on the floor. Don’t think I would like to attack one with a wire brush.

I would not do this


But I have seen garages. Drain, clean and patch with fiberglass on Punto's


They probably gave the customer two options

A) patch cost this and you can have the car back today

Or

B) replace cost this much more and you will be without the car for a few day

steviej said:

Made out of biscuit tins. Mine had a damp patch on a rust scab and an oil stain on the floor. Don’t think I would like to attack one with a wire brush.

Click to expand...

Op. Hasnt said it leaks..yet


Spending 20 minutes to clean and paint
Would seem preferable than 4 hours

The vehicle will not last forever..

So getting 2+ years at minimal cost would seem logical.

I bought a punto with a leaky sump.. (it was still better than the sills)

However the bonding was good.. sump pan was in 4 parts by the time it let go


If its not leaking..preserve it

Aye worth a punt. As V says getting a few years more by a paint job, easier than renewing at the moment. Use etch primer, a few coats of metal paint. For a final coat I’ve used truck bed liner paint, this stuff is indestructible.