Technical Which C510 input bearing

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Technical Which C510 input bearing

koalar

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55208335 fiat part number


But looks to be a standard 6204 bearing


There's at least 3 different types listed in the Punto section


Some don't look right. Oil and grease doesn't mix I "guess" the sealed ones aren't right


I think it should be open sided ? Possibly a "C3" ? Is this correct ?
 
If there is no separate oil seal, you will the 2RS sealed bearing. TBH I would use that type anyway. Honda use them on their gearboxes.
 
Apart from bearings coming in different sizes, they also come in other specifications.

There are open, sealed (RS is one side sealed or 2RS is both sides sealed) and shielded races (again, one or both sides).

They also come in different clearances to cope with heat/expansion.
This is marked by the C number.
The most common are C1 to C5 and C3 is considered "normal" as they are the most commonly used.

I believe 55208335 is a single sided seal, 6204 RS C3, (open side open to the gear oil?) but I could be wrong, it has been known!

You could buy a 6204 2RS and flick out any seals that aren't needed, they pop out quite easily.
 
Apart from bearings coming in different sizes, they also come in other specifications.

There are open, sealed (RS is one side sealed or 2RS is both sides sealed) and shielded races (again, one or both sides).

They also come in different clearances to cope with heat/expansion.
This is marked by the C number.
The most common are C1 to C5 and C3 is considered "normal" as they are the most commonly used.

I believe 55208335 is a single sided seal, 6204 RS C3, (open side open to the gear oil?) but I could be wrong, it has been known!

You could buy a 6204 2RS and flick out any seals that aren't needed, they pop out quite easily.


Thanks


The "C" number is what I am untested in

Most gearbox bearings appear to be C3 or C4 i doubt as long as there is some clearance for expansion it will be fine.


EBay is terrible. Must be half a dozen different spec bearing listed. Double sealed metal or rubber, not sealed but dust covers and open.

Found this online so C3 looks like a contender

C0 – Referred to as “standard clearance”. Normally, there are no markings on a bearing with a C0 clearance value.
C2 – Refers to a “less than standard clearance”. Bearings with this type of clearance are uncommon and have very limited uses.
C3 – Refers to a “greater than standard clearance”. This is the most common type of bearing, and is the correct choice for the majority of applications.
C4 – Refers to “greater than C3 clearance”. Not as common as C3, but often specified in small engine crankshaft bearings


Try and look whats on the original but gains stop play at the moment
 
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Just been looking at this post with pictures regarding input shaft bearing replacement.

The input shaft does have a separate oil seal.

They used a SKF 6204 2RSH on the 'box taken off a 8v 1.2 Punto Mk2, and included this link to a strangely cheap alternative: https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/product/538

Found this link to NSK bearing & seal, as previously provided by @Pugglt Auld Jock

As far as I can see the last link is a £8 seal put with a £3.5 bearing and sold at £30


I have seen a similar one. The bearing number is on the box. It's the cheapest you can buy(£2), but they have taken the seal off one side and put it with a seal for an inflated price


I have seen the two drive shaft and input shaft for the C510 for £17 just need to decide on the bearing
 
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Found SNR catalogue that list the Punto bearing with a little picture of the location of the bearings and Fiats part number

Is list it as 6204AG15J30

Don't know what it all means but

G1 is a supported cage by a ring on the side

J3 is the same a C3

Most on eBay are normal a sealed bearing with a rubber seal flicked of one side. You would be better buying an open bearing in my option. It should be an open bearing with a supported cage for High load type as far as I can tell

Makes more sense than sealing half a bearing in my head anyhow. The ringed side is still pretty open to oil draining out.
 
Yep its quite a specialist bearing. Probable been updated since early days as they don't fail half as bad as early Punto's


6204.A.G15J30 which is equivalent to BB1 0566 SKF both very expensive


Most eBay are selling Fiat input bearing are a con just a standard cheap £3
double rubber bearing with one side seal popped off. If you look carefully the solid side isn't sealed its a continuation of the cage. You would be better buying a standard 6204 open


I have no idea why the input bearing has a glass reinforced polyamide cage yet metal cage elsewhere ???


But going with this a cheaper alternative 6204NT9 I would prefer the 6204ENT9 but there is a price jump again and doubt any difference will be noticed

So going to go with 6204NT9 @ around £7
 
Would that be equivalent to this 6204 TN9 found here?

Do you have any links to the bearing and oil seal you've found, please?
I've decided to go ahead and replace both when doing my clutch.
 
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https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiat-Bra...509342?hash=item2326f5f7de:g:zLUAAOxyqUpQ7aGW

I am looking at this as it includes the drive shafts which are known to leek

This is 100% correct

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bearing-...209384?hash=item3b32bb5968:g:ZfkAAOSw7k9c9j41

but you get hammered on postage


The one you linked to is where I have been lead to. Unfortunately the photo is wrong but the description is correct. This seems quite common with bearings where they use one stock photo for several types and sizes.


I originally ask the question to double check if the TN9 cage is safe to run in gear oil. I guess so as its used in other gearboxes. If you zoom in on eBay listings for fiat input gearbox bearing. You will see either on the box its sitting on or etched into the front a part number for a cheap £2 part. If those cheap bearing last a year or two I suspect it will be fine.



I will be pulling the trigger tomorrow suspect I will aim at the £7 bearing rather than spending out on postage for the correct one.
 
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TN9's are'nt really designed to run in oil as additives in some oils can effect the cage.

https://www.rmbearings.co.uk/pictures/pdfs/FAG%20CAGE%20TYPES.pdf

I don't know where you are based, but have you thought about contacting a local bearing supplier?
Tell them what you want and what for.
I'm sure they'll know exactly what you need.


Thank you most useful graph. Which has put my mind at rest


Following the gear oil line off the right hand side of the graph until it reaches say 60 degrees its well over 100,000 hours and many more as thats at a constant temperature. It going to be below 35 degrees for most of its life

Looking at the classic car forums where they have to rebuild their gearboxes as replacements aren't available

Say Fiat / Bertone X1/9

The right input shaft bearing, Fiat 4402118 - SKF NJ2/22 TN9 (22x50x14) is dimensionally identical to the four speed equivalent (Fiat 24901150 - SKF 62/22 also 22x50x14) but the later gearbox bearing is a roller bearing as opposed to the ball bearing of the earlier gearboxes...this Fiat number (4402118) also superceeds to Fiat 5947020

Which does mean an upgrade to our box's is also possible although I will not be going down this route.



For my own curiosity I would also like to know the reason for a glass reinforced cage at the input end only as its 3x the price. Been looking through lots of gearboxes and its usually the input end only and the other end is metal cage. If a manufacture could save a few quid per car they would. After all it mounts up if you are building million

"Cages made from glass-fibre reinforced polyamide
PA66-GF25 are now used in numerous large-series
bearings. A high degree of elasticity, a low weight as
well as good sliding and dry-running properties have
a positive effect on the bearing service life"

There has to be a clue there. I guessing it keeps the input shaft wiggle down for longer ?? Maybe noise or economy ?? I don't know.
 
Looked at the feedback of the supplier of the cheapest 6204 TN9 and there's a few negatives that seem genuine so looked elsewhere

Cheap I could only find a C4 TN9 from Simply Bearing which have much better feedback but their C3 version costs the same as a genuine 6204 A G15J30 so went this way


Lost my bottle on the oil seal set. Order the version that was £1 dearer as it mentions the Panda 1.2. Would be worth messaging the one I linked to earlier. They have excellent feedback.


Everything now ground to a holt awaiting delivery's. Also working on a Suzuki which annoyingly needs a 12mm brake flare spanner which is one size I don't own


When the weather picks up I will take the clutch off. It definitely needs a realise bearing as the centre started to chew up.
 
I finally got round to pulling my gearbox apart today. There was play in the input shaft...

...and I discovered my input shaft bearing looks like this:
panda clutch 05.jpg
Only seven ball bearings, no seal, no cage. No markings on the bearing (I intend to replace it tomorrow with SKF Explorer 6204 C3).

Is this normal?

I've drained the gearbox twice now (first as routine maintenance when I got the car in October 2018).

There were a few tiny metal particles in the drained oil. There's nothing obviously rattling about inside the box or differential.
 
Yes normal. My original and working 500 box had failed the same. Looking through eBay at least 50% of the cheaper ones need replacing and new input seal.

if its an original bearing there should only be 7 ball bearings

The cage is glass reinforce plastic

It melts away if its ever starved of oil

one side had a glass reinforced plastic ring attached this should face the bellhousing so oil can run down the groove and lubricate the bearing

Measure the gap before you remove the bearing. Its not hammered all the way onto the shaft. Mine was three Stanley knife blades.

Its likely to be very tight on the shaft and the small gap isnt enough to get bearing pullers on unless you are lucky and the outer race stays in place

I used a chisel as a wedge to open up the gap slightly till my pullers would fit
 
Greased bearings work well on axles so I guess why not gearboxes. :) Honda gearboxes use greased bearings in the input shaft.

The inside seals also keep fine metal wear particles out of the bearing. The gears etc inside will cope with these but bearing races soon get pitted and fail. Sealing them in grease keeps the debris out.

To remove the race use one of these - https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313&_nkw=203188679762&_sacat=0. However, if you are (very) careful with an angle grinder, a slitting disc will cut a slot across the bearing inner race. Cut at an angle Then crack the race with cold chisel and it will slide off. Clean off all grinding dust. Take great care to not nick the shaft.
 
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Measure the gap before you remove the bearing. Its not hammered all the way onto the shaft.

I measured mine at 25 thou and tapped the new bearing down to the same gap.

My old bearing wasn't too hard to remove in the end:)

I tried a variety of chisels and pry bars before settling on an old screwdriver I could place against the inner race.
Greased bearings work well on axles so I guess why not gearboxes. :) Honda gearboxes use greased bearings in the input shaft.

The inside seals also keep fine metal wear particles out of the bearing. The gears etc inside will cope with these but bearing races soon get pitted and fail. Sealing them in grease keeps the debris out.

Thank you for this. Yes, my inner race was badly pitted (hopefully shown in pic).

I did um and ah over getting a sealed bearing. I can see now that it makes a lot of sense. The other bearings in the box are sealed, it's only the input shaft bearing that is open.

Due to the vagaries of getting parts delivered to my new home in Ireland, I could get a non-sealed bearing for about 1/4 of the price. So that's what I did. Oh well, fingers crossed it'll last another 100k miles:eek:
 

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sealed bearings in this location is a really bad idea


there is a oil gallery in the bellhousing that feeds the bearing with oil as long as there's enough oil in the box

as the bearing cools down it will suck some of the oil inside


oil and grease don't mix and ends up like hard soap.
 
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