General Rear brake adjustment adjustment

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General Rear brake adjustment adjustment

tonyn

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Hello all,
2004 1.2 ,ABS.
I have hade to change the rear nearside brake drum.
When ive fitted the new drum, its so tight, it nearly impossible to turn it.
To adjust the brake shoes inwards , to free it up, do i turn the cogged wheel on the adjuster upwards or downwards?


Thanks
 
There self adjusting but need some slake in the handbrake cable to work properly


Wind them fully in and put the drums on


slacken handbrake cable by at least three turns

forcibly press the brake peddle loads of times clicking stops

retighten the cable

make sure the rear wheel rotate freely

check the handbrake action starts before the First notch

make sure the handbrake doesn't past the fifth notch



Its easy. There is too much false information floating around on the internet and YouTube
 
Hello all,
2004 1.2 ,ABS.
I have hade to change the rear nearside brake drum.
When ive fitted the new drum, its so tight, it nearly impossible to turn it.
To adjust the brake shoes inwards , to free it up, do i turn the cogged wheel on the adjuster upwards or downwards?


Thanks

Its different for each side. Ones left hand and one right hand threaded

Just wind them both fully in by hand

If the drum doesn't fit easy you have assembled something wrong.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Koalar,
To wind it fully in , do i send the cogged wheel upwards or downwards?
 
I agree with koalar, the handbrake adjuster needs to be slackened first, then re-tightened at the end. It's underneath the handbrake housing inside the car (4 bolts to remove).

I would also prise the shoes out and manually wind the automatic adjuster back.

The cogged wheel is a ratchet - it can be forced the wrong way to loosen it, but I don't think it's a great idea, the ratchet wheel is quite soft and easy to damage.
 

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Last edited:
Thanks Koalar,
To wind it fully in , do i send the cogged wheel upwards or downwards?

You need to lift the latch and turn it so the bar shortens

From memory down but don't quote me


I don't really think about it as I wind them fully in before I assemble the rears
 
I agree with koalar, the handbrake adjuster needs to be slackened first, then re-tightened at the end. It's underneath the handbrake housing inside the car (4 bolts to remove).

I would also prise the shoes out and manually wind the automatic adjuster back.

The cogged wheel is a ratchet - it can be forced the wrong way to loosen it, but I don't think it's a great idea, the ratchet wheel is quite soft and easy to damage.

Agreed. The cog is soft you have to lift the spring steel latch first
 
From memory down but don't quote me
Yes, I'm pretty sure it is down. You'll know as soon as you try - because you'll be forcing it against the ratchet pawl it'll be much harder to turn in that direction without prising the pawl out of the way first.

You might also be able to tell from close inspection which side of the teeth are sloped on the ratchet wheel.
 
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