Do you think re-newing brake fluid is good option?
Brake drums use springs to pull the shoes away from the drum contact surface.
On brake calipers, the hydraulic piston seals provide that return pull. The actual movement is fractions of a mm but enough to distort the square section O-rings so they can pull back when brake pressure is released.
Regarding your binding brakes, this thread tells you all you need to know.
Thank you for that link to the 500 thread JR. Cleaned up my front calipers last night as part of its pre-MOT service, a wire brush on a drill couldn't remove all the rough rusty build-up on the sliding surfaces on my 16y.o. 1.2.
Which was a bit of a surprise as the other usual rust spots (sump, coolant return pipe and rear axle) weren't too bad on my car, and it had new discs and pads 3 years ago (before we got her).
I had to attack it with a wire brush on the angle grinder to get the sliding surfaces smooth before reassembling with copaslip. Other than that, easy to service, such a simple design
Thank you for that link to the 500 thread JR. Cleaned up my front calipers last night as part of its pre-MOT service, a wire brush on a drill couldn't remove all the rough rusty build-up on the sliding surfaces on my 16y.o. 1.2.
Which was a bit of a surprise...
Grinding stone or a dremal type multi tool works well
Probably can get one for a drill as well
I'm with koalar on this, chip the horrible swollen rust off the pad carrier. Small chisel and gentle hammering, the claws of a claw hammer, air powered needle scaler.adnapTA
how are you getting on
As its binding on one side it needs sorting ASAP. The near side will react slower. If you brake heavy its liable to swerve to the centre of the road.
jrkitching
has done a brilliant job. I normally just chip off any rust growths with a small screwdriver size chisel and wire brush.
Occasionally there is also a paint drip on the pads that needs to be filled off.
https://www.thepartsalliance.com/delphi-does-not-recommend-the-use-of-copper-grease/
Just keep the speed down and you should have no issuesNot a surprise to me - the ones pictured in my linked thread were only a few weeks old at the time.
Just be careful not to take off any more material than you have to, or the pads will be excessively loose in the reaction frames.
Replacement reaction frames are OEM only, and crazy expensive. Secondhand ones from a breaker will likely be as bad, or worse, so treat them with respect. Parts quality leaves something to be desired, too - on mine, one of the blind holes had been tapped right through the metal at the bottom, potentially letting water in.
Interestingly I've found it necessary to do something broadly similar on every new car I've owned since 1980; goodness knows why these aren't better protected in the factory. At keast Fiat's semicircular design makes for easy cleaning with some form of rotary abrasive tool; the more usual square cross section designs used in other marques can be the devil's own to derust thoroughly.