Technical Panda bleeding

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Technical Panda bleeding

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Dec 22, 2019
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Just replaced the rear calipers and handbrake cables on the 100HP and I noticed how slow the fluid bled through the caliper.

Is this just how it is? I know the fluid reservoir is remote from the master cylinder so I guess it has to push pressure through the connecting pipe and then into the system but I wasn't expecting it to be so laboured.
 
It wasn't the pressure it had in there straight out of the car, I dropped the pressure down to 14psi as I've always been told to use that amount with a pressure bleeder.

I had axle stands under the rear beam so it wasn't jacked up massively in the air but still higher than it would be with the wheels on
 
All you need is a suitable length of 3 x 2 timber.
Tip the driver's seat forwards and wedge the timber between brake pedal and seat. Use a pad to protect the cloth.
Go to the brake open and close the bleed nipple.
Go back to driver's seat. Raise the pedal wedge it back down and repeat.

This is not an issue with brand new pads. However, if the hand brake mechanism is wound back too far, the brake (especially hand brake) will have too much slack. Wind the piston out until it's up against the "inner" pad but not compressing it. One of the four slots in the piston top has to connect with the peg on the brake pad.
 
The Panda has ABS so does not need a load sensing brake compensator.

Correction, ive had the back end apart and not found even a snubber in the line.
 
looks to be correct

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jxtzxiE0p9A around the 4 min mark

surprising how difficult it was to find a video of a car with ABS

on his system the pressure also drop on the long runs and had to top up the spare

Just replaced the rear calipers and handbrake cables on the 100HP and I noticed how slow the fluid bled through the caliper.

Is this just how it is? I know the fluid reservoir is remote from the master cylinder so I guess it has to push pressure through the connecting pipe and then into the system but I wasn't expecting it to be so laboured.
 
What I should have done and what I will do later is to spin the rear wheels while the back end is off the floor and apply the brake while the car is running to make sure the brakes work properly.

If all else fails it can go in for a bleed before the MOT at my mates garage [emoji16]
 
If the brake wont bleed, wind the piston all the way in, bleeding the brake should be easier. Now wind it out again to correctly settle around your pads. If the caliper won't align with its bolts, check you have a piston slot at 9 o'clock to fit the brake pad nib. Assuming the other disc is ok, you can test the handbrake setting is OK by how far the lever lifts.
 
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Well all seems OK. Took the car out for a drive and brakes are good, didn't get a chance to lift the back wheels up and test the rear brakes but I'll do that tomorrow when I change the front calipers over.

Handbrake is now excellent, about 6 clicks and there's no chance of it moving
 
Well that was a very productive weekend.

All 4 calipers swapped, new hoses all round and new handbrake cables fitted.

After a couple of bleeds I've got the brakes working at about 90%. Still feels like there's air trapped in there as it's a bit spongey and doesn't bite until over half way down but they do work.

The front brakes were well past their best, rusty as hell and one of the discs had evidence of the pad not making contact. Two of the brake retaining bolts were rounded before I started; I managed to smash an 11mm socket over both of them, one came out but the other snapped so I've ordered some more.

I'm using the car most of this week for work so I'll take it easy on the braking, hopefully I'll disturb any trapped air and bleed everything again next week.

Also a quick test fit of the steels [emoji6] 20200710_195721~2.jpeg20200712_160059.jpeg20200712_160102.jpeg20200712_160111.jpeg20200712_142955.jpeg20200710_195730.jpeg20200712_134553.jpeg20200712_134603.jpeg
 
I fitted a set of HEL braided hoses. The fronts are "off the shelf". The rears are 600mm long each side. The run from the steel "bundy" pipe right through to a banjo bolt on the caliper. Each has four barrel grommits - two with P clips and two run through the original pipe end brackets.
The brakes feel direct (like a motorbike) but you soon get to love it.

I've recently fitted new pads at the front but will probably upgrade the brakes at the next service with 285mm discs from a larger Fiat/Alfa.
 
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