jackwhoo said:

Buy another ignition switch ,carry it in car,
If fault reappears plug new switch into loom, turn switch with a screwdriver gangsta style , if it fixes problem only then fit it to steering column.

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Now THAT IS a good idea

DaveMcT said:

Now THAT IS a good idea

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Yes a new , new one , not a old (worn out) new one.

koalar said:

they really aren't designed to be replaced separately. The chance of damaging the ignition barrels plastic casing can not be over stated.

All the ones I have seen faulty are the same fault. No starter spin but the headlights dim.

normally you can work around them for a bit. One you have to turn the key very hard to its end stop. Two you switch on then wait for all the lights go out then wait a bit longer before you start it. Three you have to turn it hard to its end stop the very slowly release it pressure.

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The ignition switch has always been awkward for switching to MAR and waiting. When you try to turn it to start, the key wont go the last bit. So you have to switch off and turn it through in one go. It's almost always started though has had the odd argument with the immobiliser. That's obvious of course, because the light stays on. The key fits fine there is no excessive slack in the lock action.

This time, the lights all went out as they should, but there was no start and when tested no fuel pump pulse. However when fuel pump was hot wired there was still no start despite fuel at the injector rail.

It turned out the OBD port was also dead (giving me the false idea the software was faulty).


My suggestion it's the ignition key is a guess because all the fuses and relays tested out ok. I've not yet dug out the ignition switch wiring diagram from eLearn. Will see what that can offer.

good new mechanical problem with the ignition barrel


can be bodged


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwRt9Y8CM-8

koalar said:

good new mechanical problem with the ignition barrel

Can be bodged

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QwRt9Y8CM-8

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Thanks for that 'll have a look. It cant hurt to clean out a 13 years old switch. Anything to help.

I'm not convinced that would cause the ignition, fuel or whatever systems to just stop working without throwing up the engine warning light. Some contacts not connecting just might.

I'm going to have a go at slotting the shear bolt tops (with a hacksaw) to remove the ignition lock from the car. I can then get a proper look at the actual switch.

Ignition switch is off the car. So easy (for once). A long centre punch, tap, tap and job done. They clearly don't do security.

The actual lock is easy to take out. It's also smooth as a baby's. No snags whatsoever. So the next stop is the steering latch or even the switch.

How does the electrical switch come off the end if the lock? There is a light plastic retainer cover but removing that does nothing that I can tell.

Any ideas?

:yeahthat:


already answered up there with pitfalls

Steering lock gubbins, cleaned up and greased. Switch not so easy. New switch units can be bought but I gave up because there seems to be no way to extract it without damage. So it's had a spray of contact cleaner and silicone oil.

It now back on the car with some socket hex M6 bolts. The mechanism feels much the same but it is easier to pause on MAR. Time to put all the covers back.

DaveMcT said:

Steering lock gubbins, cleaned up and greased. Switch not so easy. New switch units can be bought but I gave up because there seems to be no way to extract it without damage. So it's had a spray of contact cleaner and silicone oil.

It now back on the car with some socket hex M6 bolts. The mechanism feels much the same but it is easier to pause on MAR. Time to put all the covers back.

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And buy a new switch

there two types of switches that Fiat use. All three I have seen Are the one wide rest narrow type.


the two latches are very tight and the surround plastic very thin. It is possible to remove but not easy. If you already have a switch you could just cut/melt the latches off.


this is the easy part though. In the photo you can see a white disc. In fact two discs. Everything has to line up with the spring and cams on the barrel side. Would be easy if you were dropping them in vertically but your working with the barrel horizontally with no room to see what happening.

can get frustrating. Pot luck. One just wouldn't play ball. Try, start again, try, start again for ages. One went together in 10 minuets or so

jackwhoo said:

And buy a new switch

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I have.

It looks like the switch clicks into slots inside that end of the lock body. Once in, there is no way to release the tags so the only way out for the old switch is drilling rivets and pulling it out in pieces. It's very odd because a couple of suitable holes where a screwdriver could pry the tags would cost £ zero.

It sounds to me like the immobiliser is glitchy, having a bit of an episode and cutting off the fuel etc and possibly won't happen again.
Maybe just with not being used for a while, though changing the ignition switch, won't do any harm.