Just received a decent 2nd hand strut assembly as one of mine has a wobbly shock absorber boot. However, the one that has turned up has a loose boot too? I'll add a photo. The white part does fit somewhat up into the mount, but I assumed it should stay put in there all the time? To be clear, the entire boot section slides up and down on the shock absorber freely. Not sure if it's okay or not. It was advertised as fully tested and guaranteed for 90 days.

That's why I wanted to change mine in the first place, that boot was rattling around making a racket as it is free and some of the boot has perished.

Normally it's the friction between the foam bump and damper rod that holds everything at top of strut damper rod.

cable tie might help

So does that mean the replacement I've got is going to rattle too?!

jackwhoo said:

Normally it's the friction between the foam bump and damper rod that holds everything at top of strut damper rod.

Click to expand...

Is that just somewhere on the boot keeping it tight to the shock absorber? Or..?

koalar said:

cable tie might help

Click to expand...

just put one round the circumference to squeeze it in a bit and increase the friction.

Wouldn't think it will cause any big issues when on the car as the spring will be compressed a fair bit when it get the Weight on reducing the ammout of space it has to move

The dust boots normally moved a fair bit on the shock

My issue with the current one on the car is it is so loose that the white plastic part at the top rattles around loudly when driving. At least I assume it's that. I can reproduce it by pushing down on that corner of the car.

koalar said:

just put one round the circumference to squeeze it in a bit and increase the friction.

Click to expand...

Circumference of the foam at the top, or just the rubber boot?

The tops of the front shocks carry a thrust bearing. Rattles usually mean it's ****ed.

However, I had a Renault Espace with front suspension rattle. Searched everywhere, changed drop links etc. Eventually, I bit the bullet and removed the whole unit from the car. A bit awkward as the shock top is in the corner under the dash.

The problem was the top nut thread was stiff so had not been properly tightened. Putting it back, I realised the nut had to be fully tight BEFORE the shock was connected at the bottom end. Connecting the bottom end made the threads bind. So I fed the shock top into place and supported the bottom on a jack with bungees to stop it sliding. Then is was easy to fit the inner mount/nut/etc and torque it correctly.

Top bearings by the way were dry but cleaned up fine so I put them back and all was well again.

DaveMcT said:

The tops of the front shocks carry a thrust bearing. Rattles usually mean it's ****ed.

However, I had a Renault Espace with front suspension rattle. Searched everywhere, changed drop links etc. Eventually, I bit the bullet and removed the whole unit from the car. A bit awkward as the shock top is in the corner under the dash.

The problem was the top nut thread was stiff so had not been properly tightened. Putting it back, I realised the nut had to be fully tight BEFORE the shock was connected at the bottom end. Connecting the bottom end made the threads bind. So I fed the shock top into place and supported the bottom on a jack with bungees to stop it sliding. Then is was easy to fit the inner mount/nut/etc and torque it correctly.

Top bearings by the way were dry but cleaned up fine so I put them back and all was well again.

Click to expand...

Perhaps it's the thrust bearing that is the issue then and not the boot. Just seemed like the obvious culprit given it is loose as well.

Either way, I'll switch the struts out at some point this week and hope for the best. Just hope I can get the current nuts off with just hand tools!

are we talking about the dust cover or top mount here ?

boot to me infers dust cover ?

Dust cover. The rubber boot with the plastic white part at the top.

koalar said:

are we talking about the dust cover or top mount here ?

boot to me infers dust cover ?

Click to expand...

A or B

B.

koalar said:

a or b

Click to expand...

Got all 3 lower bolts loose. Can't for the life of me get the top mount bolt loose. I've put an allen key in the top and tried a spanner, but the whole thing spins still

Update - all done. Needed a tougher Allen key.

Gman88667733 said:

Update - all done. Needed a tougher Allen key.

Click to expand...

So far the friction of the foam bung seems to hold the boot firm at the top when installed. So hopefully it is all OK.

For anyone changing a front strut.

If the top nut spins and you cannot remove it, use an angle grinder with slitting disc to cut the nut. Cover the engine and adjacent metal work with dust sheets to catch steel sparks. There wont be enough to cause fire but they will leave rusty marks if not removed before they corrode.
Obviously this is a bad move if you want to put the same strut back on the car.

Just caught this thread, been away from the computer for a few days.

First concern was the use of a used strut. Never a good idea as its history is unknown. Also struts should be replaced in pairs, to ensure balance, otherwise handling can be compromised.
Sourdce of a used strut will be from a scrapped car, either due to rust, not many rusty Pandas yet, serious mechanical failure, not many of thosse either except perhaps high miles diesels with broken timing chains, or crashed.
A strut that's been in a crash may be compromised.
Springs are different between 1.1/1.2 with or without aircon, diesel is a heavier spring, Twinair probably different again. Whilst damping rates will also be different with OE struts for those variations, aftermarket struts may all be the same for all models, however, one manufacturer may differ from the next, reinforcing the need to fit pairs.
To safely use a used strut, you need to be sure it is of a similar age and wer to your other one, same spec, wither OE or same manufacturer if aftermarket, and using the same strength spring.
If your car is unsafe as a result, the consequences might be horrendous.

Replacement top gaiters and bumpstops are available. A real pig to assemble, needs lots of lubricant. https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=7101

Rattle at the front end is very likely to be the drop links. They make a tremendous noise whilst feeling tight when prodded. Removal will show how worn they are. They are cheap and easy to replace. Do a pair, not singly.