General Normal oil usage

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General Normal oil usage

benj111

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So I was checking out the underbonnet this morning, after having driven through some flood waters yesterday. (hope all the Yorkshire folk are ok), and noticed the oil was just touching the dip stick. now I got the car in early November when the oil was only showing halfway up the dipstick. I monitored it then and I couldn't see any oil leaks, and still can't. I haven't done many miles in that time (< 2000 miles) so that seems like a lot?

Oil doesn't seem to have coolant in, and coolant doesn't seem to have oil in. and I haven't had any behaviour to suggest a head gasket issue. so is that normal oil usage? my prior 2 cars never needed oil between annual services at all.
 
jrkitching said:
My 1.2 with 95k does not require topping up between oil changes every 10,000 miles. Uses perhaps 100ml every 5k.
Thanks, manual says "Max engine oil consumption is usually 400 grams every 1000 km." which i was guessing is heavily erring on the side of caution.


At 100k it could well be 'burning' some

But do check for things like a rusty sump pan.. ;)

Well it isn't leaving any presents on the drive, so I'm not worried about the sump. I'm guessing you're right about it burning some.
 
So I was checking out the underbonnet this morning, after having driven through some flood waters yesterday. (hope all the Yorkshire folk are ok), and noticed the oil was just touching the dip stick. now I got the car in early November when the oil was only showing halfway up the dipstick. I monitored it then and I couldn't see any oil leaks, and still can't. I haven't done many miles in that time (< 2000 miles) so that seems like a lot?

Oil doesn't seem to have coolant in, and coolant doesn't seem to have oil in. and I haven't had any behaviour to suggest a head gasket issue. so is that normal oil usage? my prior 2 cars never needed oil between annual services at all.
It is probably burning it, normally the valve stem seals get hard and don't seal the oil so well and allow the oil to run down the stem in to the cylinders and burn it, stem seals are cheap, not sure how quick the job is to do on a panda.
 
The previous owner might have put a thin oil in last time.

I've got a 53 reg Panda 1.2 with 152k. I always use 10/40 semi and top up about 200ml every 3k.

Make sure the thermostat is working spot on. If you are running cool it will burn oil.
 
Jockcl500 said:
It is probably burning it, normally the valve stem seals get hard and don't seal the oil so well and allow the oil to run down the stem in to the cylinders and burn it, stem seals are cheap, not sure how quick the job is to do on a panda.
I'll have a look into that, more fruitful than looking into PCV valves (hint, the Panda doesn't seem to have them)


The previous owner might have put a thin oil in last time.

I've got a 53 reg Panda 1.2 with 152k. I always use 10/40 semi and top up about 200ml every 3k.

Make sure the thermostat is working spot on. If you are running cool it will burn oil.

Thermostat was brand new in November, anyway the temperature gauge always rises nicely to the middle and stays there. the oil that came with it was 5w40 so thats only thinner when cold(?) so shouldn't be the problem?
 
I'll have a look into that, more fruitful than looking into PCV valves (hint, the Panda doesn't seem to have them)



Thermostat was brand new in November, anyway the temperature gauge always rises nicely to the middle and stays there. the oil that came with it was 5w40 so thats only thinner when cold(?) so shouldn't be the problem?
I have a tool for doing Ford cvh engines in place, did my brothers xr3i ones in 20 minutes while visiting him in France
I'm not sure how much work is involved in changing the Panda ones

The viscosity of the oil won't make any difference, if the seals are shot they need replacing.
I would try running a Forte flush and seal conditioner through, it could make the seals supple enough to reseal them, it may just work.
 
Last edited:
I have a tool for doing Ford cvh engines in place, did my brothers xr3i ones in 20 minutes while visiting him in France
I'm not sure how much work is involved in changing the Panda ones

The viscosity of the oil won't make any difference, if the seals are shot they need replacing.
I would try running a Forte flush and seal conditioner through, it could make the seals supple enough to reseal them, it may just work.

Thanks I'll have a look at the Forte stuff.

Valve stem replacement look quite involved, not sure if i'm feeling that brave, maybe when the weather improves, but I can guarantee it will take me longer than 20 minutes.
 
yep sounds about right.

mine has always used a bit more in winter than summer. Never bothered to find out why.

I use 10/40


5/40 is like water when cold. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't a bit of blue smoke on start up if the car stood for a few days.


just keep it topped up to the top. A Good portion of the engine cooling is via the oil. Even at half way its a pint or more below capacity.

Fingers cross to will be gold for at least another 100K
 
Ok thanks all, I've ordered some of the Forte Seal Conditioner, so I'll do that first off and feed back here (or more likely forget).
 
If it has been used on short drives (not heated properly) condensation might have added fluid getting the level at max. One proper run heating the oil up to normal working temperature will loose all that water leaving you with a low level.
I'd check it regularly in the coming time. Might be nothing at all.

gr J
 
I just got a 1.1 last week with 80k on it.

I was bemused to discover it had oil just touching the bottom of the dipstick when I checked.
It took nearly a litre to bring it up.

Since driven Lincoln to Edinburgh, and tomorrow I'll do Edinburgh to Orkney; then I'll check it again...
 
If it has been used on short drives (not heated properly) condensation might have added fluid getting the level at max. One proper run heating the oil up to normal working temperature will loose all that water leaving you with a low level.
I'd check it regularly in the coming time. Might be nothing at all.

gr J

Really? we're talking over half a litre of A) water finding it's way into the system, B) getting boiled off again. Plus water + oil = mayo, does it not???
 
check the oil on a frosty morning before starting the engine isn't the same as


running the engine up to temperature. Waiting 5 minuets then checking the oil. As you are suppose to.


Oil expands. Its noticeable but not enough to be concerned about.
 
Really really!

gr J

I'm dubious, I've given my reasons why, and you aren't addressing them. I am not an expert, but I don't know if you are either, so the sensible course in the situation it to allow you to expand you answer.

Remember, on the internet no one knows you're a dog, but on the other hand no one knows you're not either. Now fetch :p

koalar
If I check my oil, it's normally before warming up, so I was comparing apples to apples at least.
 
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