Technical Panda 100HP Coolant Sensor Measured Value

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Technical Panda 100HP Coolant Sensor Measured Value

ChrisPRSA

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Hi Guys

Getting a really lean mixture.

Symptoms:
RPM Hesitation especially across high RPM
0-100 in 13/14 seconds
Overall sluggish

Checks done:
Removing plugs shows a very white burn (indicating lean)
TPS & Potentiometers (Voltage Looks good on both and Throttlebody coheres with pedal)
Upstream and Downstream Sensors (Upstream fluctuates around 1.46 to 1.78 volts playing with the throttle, downstream doesn't move at 1.46 volts)
Compression Check (14 to 14.5 bar across all cylinders)
Fuel pump (The fuel screen is clear of any dirt) Will get around to doing a pressure check)
Temp sensor (was included in the new thermostat housing, car warms up failry quick and sits just slightly above the middle mark HOWEVER doing a diagnostic check on that range showed 135.7 degrees Celsius at that mark so I'm suspecting it might be the incorrect calibrated sensor)

Suspecting:
Map sensor
Coolant Temp sensor
Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator

Notes:
No Codes thrown from ECU

Thank you
 
what does the ambient temperature read before you start the engine ?


Should read within a degree of what Google says it is at your location
 
if its the same as the 1.1 and 1.2 there's only one coolant sensor and as the gauge reads okay it will be near enough
 
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A mat grey plugs is normal on my cars on supermarket petrol


gone are the days of carbs and leaded petrol which gave a nice brown colour.
 
Sorry for the late reply. Festive season and birthdays had me pretty occupied. #capricorns_makes_my_wallet_go_on_a_diet .

Ambient temp is fairly accurate (additionally I don’t see any hiccups with cold starts)

From what I can tell the 1.4 has only one sensor too, right on the thermostat housing. I cannot recall the color of the one that came off but I know that the replacement was a different color. This is why I took a temp reading.

I’m also starting to think that the reader might be at fault because the temp is through the roof, even if I convert to degrees Fahrenheit it doesn’t look accurate. Also O2 sensor upstream should fluctuate between .4 and .8 and mine is between 1.4 and 1.8v. Why the extra volt? All I can think is that the reader might be adding the ambient and the water temp together? Also adds 1 volt to the O2? I don’t know, it is a very reputable brand this side and the software is up to date. It was a pretty expensive reader and we use it for the workshop everyday all day. Can anybody recommend a reader that can stream live date with a quick response and offer scoped readings?

At first glance the plug looked fine but when I had a closer look and compared with ngk’s pics it is quite clear that its lean. It’s burning white as in a4 page white.

As always thanks for all the help guys
 
Just replaced my (100HP) thermostat and the sensor was brown (opening temp 88 degrees) My son's Tjet MiTo uses a fysically same thermostat (ordered at the same time) with a green sensor (opening temperature 80 degrees).
So although I could switch them out, the MiTo thermostat would open too soon anbd leave the engine too cold. Dial in the dash would still be in the middle though as long as the enginetemp stays between 80 and 100 degrees.

gr J
 
The new sensor is green. I do recall the old one being brown.

I found the negative terminal on the battery corroding insanely fast. Occasional power steering failure with red light on dash. No difficulty starting or other bad battery problems but think this could be a sign of battery failure or perhaps alternator undercharging. Diagnostics and multimeter shows 14 - 14.2v during idle and rev up. So my money is on the battery.

Side note. Disconnecting the map sensor and taking for a drive. No improvement in performance however did fix the rpm hanging after gear change. Now it’s more like our other 100hp. Instant drop when putting the clutch in

It was 14 seconds for the 0-100km/h time. Should be around 9 seconds?
 

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I think I might still have the old one. I’ll have a look thank you for the advice.

I came across two things just now. Double checking the map sensor, wiggling it slightly as the car is idling, a huge amount of vacuum was sleeping through. Inspecting it closely it was not seeping through the sensor o ring but instead the intake manifold separated on the corner. It doesn’t leak on idle but applying literally just a touch of pressure cause a leak that sends the rpm sky rocketing.

Second thing I noticed was that I place my hand on the exhaust there’s almost no pressure, on the other 100hp I can only hold my hand there for a second or two until it pops off with pressure. Side note the faulty hesitating 100HP has 14 to 15 bar compression per cylinder.

I’m wondering if the cat isn’t blocked because of the slight hiss on high rpm and also both catalytic converter killer situations occurred over lengthy periods on the car. Blown head gasket, over fueling and excessive oil burn
 
Just came across something and I think I’m right on the money. I don’t know how I came about doing this but left foot braking and trying to accelerate I noticed the ecu cuts the throttle and slowly eases it back again. The hesitation I feel whilst driving is identical to that kind of throttle cut. I jumped on the inter webs and checked for previous brake switch problems and low and behold, numerous posts of guys with not only pandas having hiccups with brake switches. No fault codes, brake lights not staying on but hesitation/loss of power/power cutting out. I’m going to yank that plastic piece of crap out and see if it needs resetting as it’s ratchet type or perhaps faulty connector or dry connection.

I really pray it’s the problem because I’m at my wits end trying to find this problem.
 
My question is that if the engine ecu reads 135 degrees Celsius, will it try to shower the engine with fuel to attempt to cool it or will it further lean it out to restrict performance?

Judging by the super white burn on the plug I’m guessing it’s the latter
 
something wrong with the measurements 135C from your scanner


gauge would be off the top but reads in the middle


Fans would be permanently on full and red light on dash
 
That’s exactly what I thought.

Update: I removed the catalytic converter, cleaned 02 sensors, checked injector spray pattern, cleaned injectors, replaced the temp sensor. Still inaccurate reading from it

Also found the battery voltage to be at 12.05v just before I started the vehicle after repairs. That raises a huge red flag for me. I know 12.5v at least is acceptable but 12 is too low. Opened the battery and found zero water in there so topped it up and it’s on charge now. My Mitsubishi Eclipse gsx has a faulty alternator and it also hesitated and didn’t boost when battery voltage got low. So I’ll pop a new one in tomorrow morning
 
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Just drove the car, no improvement. Let’s see if the battery solves it tomorrow
 
So new battery is in, no improvement. With proper voltage going everywhere and a scan tool that doesn’t read correctly I thought I’d go in the old school way and grab the multimeter to start measuring.

First one to measure was the MAP sensor and right out the bat, problem. Supply voltage is solid at 5v and ground is perfect, signal wire on idle a whopping 2.2v at operating temp and constantly fluctuating. Listened with a pipe around the intake manifold and the slight split I found before which I thought was tiny ended up being a massive gape. Just next to the map sensor the manifold split right on the seam leaving around a 3mm gap between top and bottom. When I push down on it, it’s less sever bringing the voltage of the sensor wire down to 1.2v which is closer to the spec.

Anyways intake has to come off. Not sure if it can be repaired tho
 
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