Dead 100hp panda...

Lol at agent 47 comment... ya working in a complex isn’t fun but i got it done today lol... was just watching and and waiting for the security to come and ask what I’m doing. Also its the season of new leases so agents could very well be running around showing flats and welcoming new tenants...

Managed to get the head off today which was a relief.



Doesn’t look too bad - exhaust valves are obvs bent, pistons dont look like any impact happened and they are just very dirty.

Check all the valves but it looks like you got away with minimal damage. If it was mine I'd do the head and leave the bottom end for later. If the oil pressure holds up there's no need to worry about damaged crank bearings.


What are the cylinder bores like for scoring, lipping, etc?

Ill have the engineers sort out the head - I don’t want to take a chance and end up ruining it... I’ll check for gaps though as you suggested before.

The bore looks good can still see honing marks etc i didn’t actually think to feel for lipping and such will climb in and have a look again though when I clean everything up.

Would this be a good opportunity to get some headwork done? Porting/polishing etc? Anything specific i should ask the engineers to do? Or is it a complete waste of money in stock form?

Head porting is a lot less work on modern engines but there are pitfalls. It's skilled work best done by tuning experts. It wont be low cost.

To feel any benefit you will have to replace the standard exhaust manifold and system. I suspect exhaust manifolds made for the 1200 will fit but I can't find any details on the affordable stuff.

If it was me I'd fit a better exhaust then get the ports done if It feels worth the cost. The cost of removing the head (again) to have the work done wont really matter as traditional engine tuning is always costly.

Check out David Vizard on You Tube. He's usually covering the Austin Mini A Series which has it's own special tweaks (scatter cams, etc") but the principles are the same.

Search "david vizard how to build horsepower" on You Tube.

Supersprint will cost a fortune and the underfloor catalyst is additional cost. There are low cost headers on eBay but its a gamble for fit and function.

This shows how to calculate the tubes but you'll need a crash course in welding. http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php

Thanks dave! Ill have a look... I did have a chat with the engineer and he basically said its not worth it.. I will most likely change the exhaust out at some point. I just need it up and running really. Tweaks and mods can happen later.

That being said the head is with the engineer Nd hopefully will get it back later this week or next week so i can start the reassembly process...

I had a BMW motorbike (the 1200 Boxer twin engine). It was OK but not stormingly fast considering the engine size. Fitting a full sports exhaust made some difference, but fitting a Power Commander to take account of the new exhaust was a stunning improvement. Remapping would have been a more elegant solution.


The 100HP can't be remapped but a special ECU could be fitted. It would need to provide the right signals for the OEM body computer but I'm sure it could be done.

Same thing with my 900ss not a performance bike but after straight piping the vtwin it does rev a little easier and makes very nice noises so even when going slow it sounds fast lol.

Ill look into an aftermarket management system if tuning is ever needed. Exhaust and intake can easily be replaced. I do want to chop the cat out because if its blocked it’ll breath easier just with the stock pipe diameter.

I should be getting the head back tomorrow so I could start the rebuild over the weekend.

All valves and seals will be replaced and guides seem to be intact. Head will get a skim too.

Does anyone have the torque settings for head and cambox replacement? Or point me to
The correct section on elearn pls...

Please don't remove the catalyst core. Removing the core will mess up the oxygen sensor readings and will put sticking exhaust gas down the road.


A tuned pipe with cat under the sump will clean the gasses and keep the ECU happy.

Oh ok... will keep this in mind!

Can anyone help with the torque settings? My elearn is a down for some Reason..

Any help?
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-ii/4...-16v-head.html

https://www.fiatforum.com/multipla/3...rque-help.html

Yes i found these earlier but didn’t really know if exactly relevant to the 1.4... the ordering is good to know and i hve elearn back up and running so i have the torque specs... now to just get some balls to do it and hope I don’t ffff it up

Are there tdc timing marks on the cam pulley? Ive set the crank at tdc so now i need to get the cams to match.

Gave the carbo loaded pistons a clean today before fitting the head.

Use a paint marker on the crank pulley to make your own TDC marks.

I think you will need a cam locking tool, though the belt "can" be fitted, gently tensioned, checked, adjusted if necessary and eventually fully tensioned. But its a fiddly way to go.

Some engines always need a locking tool because the belt is fitted and tensioned with the cam pulley(s) free to turn on the cams. Then you set the crank at TDC, lock the cams and only then lock the wheels to the cams.

So with some more digging on elearn i think i have the way forward to do this...


Seems engine must be a mid dead centre or mid stroke before timing not tdc as I previously thought...

So as a guide to myself and others use this page on elearn.

I just want to clear something up for myself though. It says to loosen the cam pulley after locking in correct orientation ie mdc. While the crank pulley is locked also the belt can be fitted. Now my confusion: can you tension the belt because the cam pulley can be rotated as its loose and the cams are locked in place? This will let you take up the slack enough to tension the belt correctly?

In that punto sporting guide posted earlier they note that after rotating the engine assembly with the new belt it may appear to be out 1 or 2 teeth does the free cam pulley prevent this from happening?

Hi all

Was there ever a definitive answer out of this thread as to whether the 16V 1.4L 100hp 169A3000 (2015 500 Sport) would have sacrificial rockers or not?

I have a car here that had a frontal collision which has broken the plastic timing cover and caused the belt to jump. Belt has not broken but timing sensor error is shown on a diagnostic scan

Even though it's only done very low kms, probably a waste of time even tearing it down if it's going to need valve and head work, but if it might be just rockers then maybe I should expend a little time on it

I have not looked for compressions yet, but how tolerant might interference be if it had only jumped 1 or 2 teeth (perhaps)?

I don't think there is any easy way to check how far timing is out without buying the special tools, either, or is there?


Any opinions please, before I waste a lot of time?