Hi Guys

First up, hello from Sunny South Africa.

Just got a Panda 100hp and am thoroughly enjoying it! It is a 2008 model and has a 170 000km on the clock. (That’s like 250 miles for all the imperialists out there ? jk)

The little bamboo brat seems to have a bit of a hiccup and hopefully you guys might have a solution. Just FYI I am a qualified mech and have been in the Italian game since 98 with Fiats and Alfas.

The problems:

Ambient (Outside Air) Temp Sensor does not seem to be working with ---C displaying on the dash. At times it reads -8C with possible ice on road warning (it's summer) only chance of ice on road is if grandpa spilled his Brandy in the driveway again.

Struggles to start on cold mornings. Cranks-Starts-Dies immediately. Applying some throttle when cranking ensures that it doesn't die once started.

Coming to a halt at a traffic light for instance as soon as the clutch is depressed the RPM hunts between 700 - 1200rpm 3 or four times and then stabilizes.

That's it, otherwise the car is pretty awesome. Previous owner fitted a BMC cone filter, the filter is installed right after the MAF and the car is fitted with an exhaust system front to be back.

Before I go and mess with the plumbing and ripping it all apart. What do you guys recommend looking at?

Regards
Chris

Not sure if the ECU takes info from the sensor for the outside temperaturesensor, but it lives in the leftmirror (on a LHD car). Sensor could be broken or it's just a wiring issue.
Hunting could be caused by a dirty throttlevalve.

gr J

Panda 100HP - exhaust

Hi All,

I've got a 100HP which needs a new back box (due to rust) it's a 2017 with 50k on the clock - maybe even a centre section.

THe forum always been awesome at daft questions - and I'm full of them. But what am I talking to get fixed at an independant garage?

Appreciate any responses.

Best, PC

Thanks A3Jeroen. I did a couple of searches and apparently the outside temp sensor only supplies temp to the dash and a reference for the A/C.

I’ll clean out the throttle body and I have seen a few recommendations on cleaning the MAF with appropriate MAF cleaner.

This panda has no CAT and In SA we don’t have MOT for emissions. Did the panda have a CAT? And was the setup a normal upstream and downstream sensor before and after CAT?

Mine has. All in the manifold/downpipe.

gr J

Re: Panda 100HP - exhaust

pandacheck said:

Hi All,

I've got a 100HP which needs a new back box (due to rust) it's a 2017 with 50k on the clock - maybe even a centre section.

THe forum always been awesome at daft questions - and I'm full of them. But what am I talking to get fixed at an independant garage?

Appreciate any responses.

Best, PC

Click to expand...

No sure why you hijacked this thread, but the silencers are notorious for rusting the outer skin. But underneath will be another skin and they actually last pretty long.
when mine goes (flaking for the last 6 years) I'll go for an ulter silencer and the midsection for a 500 1.4.
E-Bay is your friend.

gr J

A3jeroen said:

Mine has. All in the manifold/downpipe.

gr J

Click to expand...

Thank you, will have a look tonight and see if it’s still in. Do you know if the decay will throw a MIL or affect performance?

Not sure, but it sounds logic.

gr J

Okay so just to clear things up, intermittent hard starting and sluggish performance caused by failing number 2 coil. Rpm surging coming to a halt and irratic idling caused by the vacuum line after the throttle body that leads to the breather on top of the valve cover. It looked fine but when I touched it, it was a clean snap off and sucking air through there. All fixed now!

I'm certain this panda is not performing as it should. I was following my wife back from the workshop, she has a Hyundai i10 1.2 (79hp) and I could not catch her. The I10 kept pulling away from me.

Before we purchased the car we noticed the service history indicating a cambelt change. I know you need special tools and if this was done incorrectly it might be wrongly timed.

Does anybody here perhaps know the symptoms of a badly timed 100hp? Would it not throw a engine light?

Also what else can I be looking at?

Ps there's no missfires , the car just seems lazy and takes forever to climb up the rpms

You need to get the rpm over 4000 before it starts to move.
Did you change all your coils or just the failing ones?
The air filter setup probably isn't helping, especially in a South African climate.

Does the car rev to the redline? Spark plugs Ok? Is the bmc filter actually clean?

Thanks for the response.

I just changed the number 2 coil but I can see the 4th coil was replaced before.

I took off the bmc and replaced the stock piping from my other panda as that one is currently getting some engine work done. No improvement.

The car does go to the red line but takes forever. It has 170 000km, I remember my 206gti at 130 000km had a clogged catalytic converter and also did not want to pull. I'd yank it out as we don't need it in SA but I don't want to cause engine lights piping up.

Just pulled the plugs, gaps are good and burning as per NGK guide.

that mileage isnt particularly high.

it could be a blockage in the exhaust. it may throw up an engine light if you remove the CAT but it will only be the post CAT sensor (if it has one?) which shouldnt affect performance.

can you post pics of the plugs? coils only usually fail if they are stressed (worn plugs, gap too big etc). they can get weak over time too, so if a couple of yours have already been changed, the others probably arent at their best!

the lifters are hydraulic, if the oil is or has been gunky, these may be gummed up and you will get reduced peformance. you can get hydraulic lifter treatment you put in with the oil which "may" help.

are all your brakes free? a couple of binding brakes can make quite a difference to the performance.

have a look through those things and let us know......

Dac69er thanks for the awesome response. Ill take some time tomorrow to go through everything mentioned and report back.

I recently replaced one coil to solve a missfire. It worked, but the symptoms have returned so I'm buying three more to complete the set.

Cylinder compression tests should tell you if the bores and valves are ok.