It would be nice to fan a variable fan, like a climate control panda nearly has.
I have considered looking for a scrapping 100hp and get the whole climate and blower assembly. Super big job though.
I assume that little vent above the gear knob is used by the climate cars?
Looking to what you say about the fan control knob, it looks like you are going to have to put the air con switch somewhere else or the potentiometer?
I am thinking to put my pot as you say just below that vent, it doesn't look like it will interfere with gear changing and will also be very handy to adjust too?

It does sound like a bit of a bodge job, seems it would have been easier and tidier to have just put a new oem resistor in

The issue with finding another way that does not bodge the job. It would be easy to simply slap a volume control dial anywhere it would fit.

The choice is remove the dashboard to gain access or find another way.

Multiodd said:

It would be nice to fan a variable fan, like a climate control panda nearly has.
I have considered looking for a scrapping 100hp and get the whole climate and blower assembly. Super big job though.
I assume that little vent above the gear knob is used by the climate cars?
Looking to what you say about the fan control knob, it looks like you are going to have to put the air con switch somewhere else or the potentiometer?
I am thinking to put my pot as you say just below that vent, it doesn't look like it will interfere with gear changing and will also be very handy to adjust too?

Click to expand...

The 100HP heater is not what its cracked up to be. It's a faff to use and the heater air flap control actuators are prone to failure. IMO the "normal" manual control air-con heater is a far better option.

The dash plastic can be removed reasonably easily, but heater removal requires the structural underframe to be removed. That is 10x the job even the doors have to come off the car to removed structural components under the dash panels.

DaveMcT said:

The issue with finding another way that does not bodge the job. It would be easy to simply slap a volume control dial anywhere it would fit.

The choice is remove the dashboard to gain access or find another way.

Click to expand...

The Wiring for the Fan speed control knob connects down to the Resistor pack, which is where I assume you have connected the PWM. Therefore the wiring is right where you need it.

The aircon switch and the fan speed control I presume work otherwise perfectly, so all you're doing is swapping the resistor for a PWM.

hacking holes in the dashboard is a bodge in my view, as would be disconecting the original controls.

I agree that hacking holes in the dash is a bodge. I made one concession by cutting off the tube/boss/whatever under the thermostat grille. Its not used on on climate control cars so its no loss and allows a neat switch to be fitted that looks OEM.


Having made the mounting plate for the PWM potentiometer I would say it's possible but probably no easier than taking out the whole dashboard fascia to replace the original resistor.

The original fan speed switch cannot drive anything other than what it's designed for. There is no way to access its wiring or fit any new wires without hacking the wiring loom and sub dash panel.


The only usable option is to remove the original heater control switch. That leaves a 50 x 50mm space to fit the PWM potentiometer, the two wiring connectors are available without any modification and the OEM switch can go back if required.


Consider the job as a project and all will be well. However, the work is no less than removing the whole dash fascia to access the old speed control resistor. At least, the car can be used while the job is going on and it can be put back to standard if you ever choose to do so.

just been to my car and tried a flexible drive and a torch


tied some string to the top and pulled it into a slight bow and used it to guided it straight onto the bolt first time


not mine bust something like the


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WlXw8uCYm8Q

koalar if I can find my new resistor I might well give it another go though last time, with all sorts of flexi drives and U/Js, etc I still got nowhere. Whacking out the whole dash panel would suit me fine after that experience. But hey I'm not knocking your undoubted skills.

here's what I used along with a torch

Slides in the gap where you can't fit your hand and straight onto the bolt

To close this out. Yes you can fit a PWM and Yes the dash will not be bodged.

You will need to make a mount for the PWM potentiometer in place of the original fan speed control switch. A standard D spindle fits perfectly. It cannot be done with the OEM switch. A bracket can be screwed to the control knob dumbell or over where the OEM switch would be fitted. Some trimming is needed to clear the wires but its not visible and has no effect on functionality.

You will also need a bracket under the gear lever behind the curved panel to carry the electronics.

HOWEVER the 30 amp PWM I bought from a UK supplier worked fine on 18V (used a pair of 9V dry batteries) but it failed to have any effect on fan motor speed. Maybe I accidentally reverse connected it but I followed the labels to the letter so its unlikely. They all come from China with no certainty that any of them would be any better so I've pulled the plug on the job.

I had an interesting time in the shed and the car is undamaged so hey ho.

Old thread but maybe help someone with a RHD Panda and no 1-3 fan.

DaveMcT said:

I've had the driver's seat out and lay on my back. Moved the air recirc flap to look at the speed control resistors.

Click to expand...

Thanks - found this really helpful while I had the front seats out to dry under the carpet. I'd never have found the resistor pack by just referring to Haynes.

Here it is looking up under the dash (the green thing).

DaveMcT said:

Is it possible to get better access by dropping the steering column out of the way or even removing the instrument binnacle?

Click to expand...

I removed mine without removing steering column. It's one of them Panda jobs that has to be done by feel. I don't see how you'd get a spanner or straight 1/4" drive socket on that bolt with the steering column out I found a flexible extension in my tool box which coiled up behind the steering column while I used the other hand to go in front of the column and guide the socket onto the bolt.

Someone on a thread mentioned 5.5mm bolt heads Yes it is.



For me the fuse had not blown as it didn’t show as open circuit with a multi meter.

The connections had rusted so needed some dermal to clean up... then on refit with the bendy extension and 5.5mm socket... fan speeds 1-3 it still didn't work. :bang:

I removed the electrical connector again and squeezed the spade connections inside the black plug and bingo... all 4 fan speeds work.

Well done!

Someone posted a picture of a flexi drive with a cord to pull it into a 90 degree bend. My flexi is too stiff for that so will have to find something more suitable.

Louie Bee said:

Old thread but maybe help someone with a RHD Panda and no 1-3 fan.



Thanks - found this really helpful while I had the front seats out to dry under the carpet. I'd never have found the resistor pack by just referring to Haynes.

Here it is looking up under the dash (the green thing).

View attachment 215873


I removed mine without removing steering column. It's one of them Panda jobs that has to be done by feel. I don't see how you'd get a spanner or straight 1/4" drive socket on that bolt with the steering column out I found a flexible extension in my tool box which coiled up behind the steering column while I used the other hand to go in front of the column and guide the socket onto the bolt.

Someone on a thread mentioned 5.5mm bolt heads Yes it is.

View attachment 215874

For me the fuse had not blown as it didn’t show as open circuit with a multi meter.

The connections had rusted so needed some dermal to clean up... then on refit with the bendy extension and 5.5mm socket... fan speeds 1-3 it still didn't work. :bang:

I removed the electrical connector again and squeezed the spade connections inside the black plug and bingo... all 4 fan speeds work.

Click to expand...

My 04 Active only has speeds 3 & 4 which is a painbut you live with it but, if it can be fixed, even allowing for some contortions of the body would be classed as a win-win! In that top photo there is a sort of "open grill" surrounding the resistor - is it plastic and if so can the cross-pieces be cut away?? Would that allow any easier access??

toromod said:

My 04 Active only has speeds 3 & 4 which is a painbut you live with it but, if it can be fixed, even allowing for some contortions of the body would be classed as a win-win! In that top photo there is a sort of "open grill" surrounding the resistor - is it plastic and if so can the cross-pieces be cut away?? Would that allow any easier access??

Click to expand...

I'm not about to squeeze under my dash to re-acquaint myself with mine, but I'm sure the resistor sits inside the heater box. I think the photo might have part of the heater box removed to show the resistor in situ, and teh mesh supports the removed cover. Not a good idea to discard any part of a car, as there will be a reason for its existence.
Vehicle manufacturers work hard to control costs, so no part is created or fitted unless it is necessary, either for function, or aesthetics. Fiat are expecially good at not fitting anything unnecessary. As that mesh is not pretty, it must have a necessary function, even if that is not obvious to us. My advice is to work around it, or through it, but not without it.

With the right tools

Torch, long screwdriver, flexi drive and 5.5 mm socket it a fairly easy job

There’s no point in cutting anything

I did mine just to see how it could be done without removing the steering column (RHD 05) if you got the tools ready before getting to the car it’s really is only a couple of minutes


@Louie Bee used a similar method without too much problems


In my case you had to push electrical wires out of the way with a long screwdriver to see the bolt. In my experience if you can see a bolt you can undo it

​

Thanks @koalar

The guy I sold my other (black) Panda to said that her also removes the driver's seat to get better access under the dash. I can see that making it much easier to get into position above the pedlebox.

toromod said:

! In that top photo there is a sort of "open grill" surrounding the resistor - is it plastic and if so can the cross-pieces be cut away?? Would that allow any easier access??

Click to expand...

I think it’s a trick of the angles of the photo it’s very hard to get a meaningful photo with a phone


This is the best I got of the only bolt holding it in

Louie Bee said:

Thanks @koalar

The guy I sold my other (black) Panda to said that her also removes the driver's seat to get better access under the dash. I can see that making it much easier to get into position above the pedlebox.

Click to expand...

I tried that on Mrs Dave's 1.2. I gave up. My arms are about a foot too short to reach the screws and wires never mind the pedals in the way. I put the seat back in and she continues with full speed or no fan at all.

I believe that removing the dash plastic** might give access from above but that's a big job and the structural frame might still be in the way.

** I mean just the cosmetic panel not the whole scuttle frame.