Technical Engine fault/Ignition failure P0300/P03003/P03001

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Technical Engine fault/Ignition failure P0300/P03003/P03001

Muddur

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Apr 28, 2019
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Location
Copenhagen
Last week my Panda (169) lost the drive wheel for the V-belt-
The belt drives the generator, and the condition-pump.
Yes! It actually lost the wheel. I found one broken bolt in the engine mount and the rest was missing :eek:. It was my luck the wheel feel of at low speed (5-10 km/h) and the engine stopped at once. The sound of the old V-wheel hitting the asphalt was quite terryfying.

The broken bolt was removed and a new V-wheel and the belt was replaced with original Fiat parts.

The car started without errors and the performance and acceleration is was better than when I bought it 4 months ago.

Two days later on a late night on a highway (doing 110 km/h), I suddenly got the yellow warning light. Shortly after I stopped it turned off.
The day after I scanned the ODBD and got:

Errors found:
P0300 - Ignition failures (generic)
P0304 - Cylinder 4 ignition failures
P0301 - Cylinder 1 ignition failures

The day after that day, on the highway I got it again.

This time it was easy to hear that that I had an inter-mitten ignition failure.
As I coasted into the emergency lane the engine warning light disappeared.

I sat several minutes listing to the engine with the ODBD connected to my laptop without the issue reappearing :confused:


It seams that it only happens above a certain speed.

Question:
1. Are there a certain way to mount the V-belt drive wheel?
2. Does the sensor that monitors the Crankshaft (My guess is that the sensor that points to the drive wheel is a Crankshaft sensor), affects the timing?
3. Can a faulty grounding connection in the left rear-light which cause inter-mitten signalling, cause this fault?

All suggestion are welcome (y)
 
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1 Yes, but I think there is a notch preventing mounting it the wrong way
2 Yes the sensor needs to be really close to the pulley. Say the thickness pof a creditcard. By coming off the pulley might have bend something.
3 Don't think so.

gr J
 
Faulty crank position sensor does not show a fault code because it's the same effect as stalling the engine. New ones cost about £15.

I would not expect an indicator (which is driven by the body computer) to affect the engine. However, on some Fiats the reverse light switch is used to prevent engine start when reverse is selected. Faulty switch = car going nowhere.
 
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1 and 4 wouldn't that be an electrical fault in the ignition.


I have just changed a coil pack. The primary coil. the two pins under the small connector measures 1 ohms. The bad one never really settles and floats around all over the place.

swapping them over and re reading the codes would also be a good test


error codes in title and original post don't match ?
 
1 and 4 wouldn't that be an electrical fault in the ignition.


I have just changed a coil pack. The primary coil. the two pins under the small connector measures 1 ohms. The bad one never really settles and floats around all over the place.

swapping them over and re reading the codes would also be a good test

Swapping them over?
Can I rearange the cabels without making a mess?
 
Swapping them over?
Can I rearange the cabels without making a mess?


yes if the cables are long enough

swap the little connector and the two thick cables over.

I would disconnect the battery first


it is easy to get in a knot. But a simple label on each cable saves all the headaches.
 
With engine stone cold start, and run for about 10 seconds. Check temperature of exhaust manifold stubs adjacent to the cylinder head. They should be warm enough to touch without burning yourself. Any that are cold indicate that cylinder is not firing properly. On the 1.2 it's likely to the outer pair or the inner pair as these are fed by one coil for each pair.
If there is a difference, change the spark plugs and repeat the short engine run. If there is no change, either swap the coils over and see if the cold exhaust stubs move or change the coils.
 
Just a heads-up.
DaveMcT koalar

I haven't had time as I have had some front-suspension/v-bent replacement control-after issues that :yuck:
koalar
Sparkplugs was replaced just after I bought the car (June 2019), but I guess that a lost of sensor date from the crankshaft could have created some unexpected faults :confused:
 
The Solution, Short version:

The error:

- Dirt accumulated at the exhaust valve seats and on the valves edges!
This made them unable to seal properly and thereby vent more out into the Lambda sensors which detected more pollution as well as giving it a shorter mileage due to compression.


The Fix:
Refurbishing the valves and replacing some of them.


Probably course or combination:

  • to long between oil-change
  • down-time between sale without oil change
  • been driven with to little RPM in high gears
  • use of 92 Octane gas (prohibited in 2005 version)
Car history:


The car is a 2005 model, sold in November 2005 by en elderly couple at the capital of Denmark. The

Inspection (service booklet) (In according to inspection booklet, don't know if it includes oil change) in January 2007 @18.204 Km (approx. 1 year).
First official oil change was in 2008 @43.000 Km


Fiat recommends yearly or at 10.000 Km whatever comes first, if the car are used primarily as a city car or in dusty areas.


Timing belt was changed in [email protected]


We got the car in 2019, with 103.000 km on odometer and where this fault came and went, to be a daily occurrence.
Oil and all filters has changed since every 10.000 Km or every year. The timing belt was changed this January.

The lesson I got is clear. It is not the age of a car, but the care. If you buy a used car, discard the information about the age or a low ODO (KM/Miles). Make sure that the car have received the factory prescribed maintenance whether is is by a pro, or by a DIY!

Too many car owners use the longest maintenance schedule. AKA ODO/Km/Miles over years prescribed (, if that is cheaper) :bang:.

They are (probably) not aware that that oil gets bad over time, filters clog and rubber gets hard and less flexible. :bang:
And this not only damage the car, decrease performance and also decrease mileage/Fuel economy.

And most of them don't' see the stuff with small letters, like decreased oil service km for driving in city.

Sorry, just my 2 cents of nagging, but I wanted to share my solution after all the help I got.

I retrospect, I got a much nicer car to drive. The exhaust sound more firm and I had some time to do the rust that accumulate besides the timing belt covers :D
 
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