Technical Rough idle when at 10 degrees or less.

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Technical Rough idle when at 10 degrees or less.

nikonman

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Jul 4, 2018
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So when the temp is around 10 Celsius (I haven't had the pleasure of anything colder yet) my car if completely cold will start easily but then will idle rough until slightly warm. After a very short drive or 1 min of idling it goes back to normal. The revs fluctuate and the car kangaroos during this time. Slight throttle causes it to subside but only whilst throttle is held.
Any warmer than around 10 Celsius and everything is fine.
Any ideas on what could be causing this?
Thanks.
 
Hi nikonman, I'm sorry your original post didn't receive any replies.
My car was also a bit hesitant at part throttle when cold when I first got it, I changed plugs, cleaned the MAP sensor and throttle body, and it's been fine since.
Removing the throttle body (torx screws) made cleaning and changing plugs easier.
(I also put injector cleaner in with a tank of fuel and gave it some welly, but I know there are mixed views on the old 'Italian tune-up'
tongue.gif
).
Might not cure your problem, but a good place to start.
 
Got some in the mail. Handy sale on at euro car parts saved me 10 quid.
 
Mine had become a little sluggish starting, then the other day the engine warning light came on as the engine started to run rough. At the next stop it was clearly firing on three. The 100HP has stick coils and it's turned out to be a blown coil. The 1.2 has a pair of coils with plug leads from each so first check the spark plugs then check the coils.
 
Handy sale on at euro car parts saved me 10 quid.
Thanks for the info. Let us know how you get on. Also worth checking the air filter housing for cracks, especially at the outlet to the throttle body (there's no jubilee clip, it just slides over but shouldn't be loose) and breather hose.
There's a good video (in Italian) for cleaning the MAP sensor:
[ame]https://youtu.be/VVIdPQ86z-U[/ame]
I think forum member koalar posted somewhere that the MAP sensor can be tested by just unplugging it and seeing if it makes any difference?
Re DaveMcT's advice above about the coils, am I right in thinking on the 1.2 that one coil serves cylinders 1&4, the other coil cylinders 2&3?

If so, checking the coils should entail swapping the plug leads on 1&2, and also on 3&4, is this right?
 
Re DaveMcT's advice above about the coils, am I right in thinking on the 1.2 that one coil serves cylinders 1&4, the other coil cylinders 2&3?

If so, checking the coils should entail swapping the plug leads on 1&2, and also on 3&4, is this right?

This is correct.


To test the 1.2 coils you need to swap the plug leads AND the low tension wires. This well then swap the coils.

If the engine is started from cold and run for no more than 10 seconds you can still touch the manifold outlets to see which is running cool. In my case it was just one, but the 1.2 is more likely to have the end two or the middle two feeling cool.

If its a faulty spark plug you would have just the one cool exhaust. But as they spark in pairs, you need to fit new plugs and then see what happens.
 
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