Technical 100HP Wheel Bearing Replacement - Torque Specs

Currently reading:
Technical 100HP Wheel Bearing Replacement - Torque Specs

100HPMatt

New member
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Messages
11
Points
2
Hi, I’m looking to replace a rear wheel bearing on the Panda 100HP I just bought (great car!). Does anyone know the torque spec for the hub nut? I’ve searched everywhere. Any guides available?
 
I believe it is something like 240Nm but like you cannot find confirmation.

The new wheel bearing is supplied as a complete hub and new retaining nut for around £30. You will need the ABS type.

Jack up car and support on stands.
Remove rear brake hub (check its all ok while it's open (including hydraulic seals).
You will need a 600mm breaker bar and good six point socket to unscrew the retaining nut. The old hub simply pulls off. Do not lose any washer that might be underneath.

Fit the new hub and the NEW retaining nut with washer under nut if supplied. My torque wrench will not go high enough so I set it to max then add a little more tightness with the breaker bar. It should retain some thread spring so dont try to make it go solid tight.

The correct advice of course is to use a bigger torque wrench.
 
Done mine a few years ago. I beleive the right torque is 300Nm or so. But I did it like Dave said. Long bar to loosen the nut and again to tighten it up. I think 5Nm more or less will not be a problem. Keep the wheel on the ground to loosen and tighten. Just remove the caps (both wheel and hub).

gr J
 
Hi, I’m looking to replace a rear wheel bearing on the Panda 100HP I just bought (great car!). Does anyone know the torque spec for the hub nut? I’ve searched everywhere. Any guides available?

Hi
The Electronic Workshop Manual "eLearn" can be downloaded from the download section. This has all the information you need.

https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?categoryid=13

You have to download the 7 .RAR files, uncompress them to a .ISO, burn the ISO to a CD-ROM and then install eLearn from the CD-ROM. I use the free version of 7-zip do do the uncompression. Most PCs have software to burn a CD-ROM from a .ISO.

Robert G8RPI.
 
You need the wheel on the ground to undo the wheel nuts. But the hub retaining nut is on a fixed spindle so can be removed/replaced with the car jacked up.
 
When I did the Punto Mk2 (same hub), I just could not shift the retaining nut and ruined a socket set T bar by hitting it with a lump hammer. The job stopped until I'd bought a 600mm breaker bar. That's so easy. Set about 10 0'clock, press it down and the nut is loose. It works because the spigot between socket and handle is so short, there's no spring effect. The T bar needed the short extension and a support to stop it flying off the nut..
 
Thanks all, that’s really helpful. Luckily I’ve got most of the tools already, including a 1000mm 3/4” breaker bar I bought to do the same job on my Z4. If that won’t shift something, then it’s probably time to give up. Think my torque wrench goes up to about 330Nm, so that’s covered too. Can you tell I like tools?

Will probably need the correct socket though, as the Z4 hubnut is huge. The panda’s is 32mm isn’t it?
 
When I did the Punto Mk2 (same hub), I just could not shift the retaining nut and ruined a socket set T bar by hitting it with a lump hammer. The job stopped until I'd bought a 600mm breaker bar. That's so easy. Set about 10 0'clock, press it down and the nut is loose. It works because the spigot between socket and handle is so short, there's no spring effect. The T bar needed the short extension and a support to stop it flying off the nut..

A dead blow hammer is your friend! One of the most useful things I ever bought.
 
IIRC it's 30 mm, but I could have that mixed up with the hubs on my boattrailer. someone had put green loctite on the threads. That took a lot of heat long bars and force (and of course some cursing) to get them loose. In comparisson to that the Pandahubs were the proverbial piece of cake.
BMW used 36mm (again IIRC).

gr J
 
I’ve got most of the tools already, including a 1000mm 3/4” breaker bar I bought to do the same job on my Z4. If that won’t shift something, then it’s probably time to give up.

If all else fails
 

Attachments

  • JVGSCx9.jpg
    JVGSCx9.jpg
    175.2 KB · Views: 32
When it comes to really tight stuff there's nothing like a bit of brute force and 3/4" drive can do that. Some years ago I was very lucky to come across a liquidation sale for a local garage and one of the things being sold was a cheap Northern Industrial Tools 3/4" drive 12 point socket set. The sockets are not of the highest quality and I would really have preferred a 6 point set but beggars can't be choosers! In fact the 12 point has proved to be very useful on VAG front hubs which use "wierd" 12 point type nuts. Shortly after I bought it I also bought a 3/4 (female) to 1/2" (male) adaptor so I could use the 3/4" "T" bar with my 1/2" drive sockets and a power bar. Here's an illustration:

P1080676.JPG

1/2" to 3/4" doesn't sound like much but look at how much bigger the square drive is compared with my "trusty" old Britool power bar. If things are really putting up a struggle I use the "T" handle with that length of scaffold pole over the end of it. Using a 3/4" socket I've never failed to either loosen the component or just snapped it off!

P1080677.JPG

I would not use the scaffold pole with the 1/2" adapter - think it would ruin the socket or snap the adapter (that's one of my old Kampmann sockets, first socket set I ever bought back in the '60's and still in regular use!) and I'm emotionally attached to my older tools!

I'm lucky now to have my "Hooligan" rattle gun but there are times when I still like to "feel" how things are going, especially when tightening things. Regarding hub nuts and how tight to do them, If you don't have a torque wrench (and often you need a serious bit of kit to get the figures required) if your old nut is of the "staked" type you just need to retighten until the stake mark lines up. You can usually re-stake at least once if you've been careful when you were dismantling and some stud lock will help keep it from slackening. You can do the same thing with a nylock type by pin punching it and the axle (or pin punch opposite an easily recognized feature on the axle - like the start of the screwthread) and then, with stud lock applied, retighten till the marks line up. This of course is not a recommended way to do it so if you do it and it all ends in tears don't come crying on my doorstep will you. It's worked for me in the past but I'm not standing beside you to see if you're doing it right!
 
Last edited:
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Continuing the 3/4” tool porn, here’s a pic of my 1/2” Sealey 250mm extension versus my 3/4” Sealey 250mm extension. The 1/2” is like a ballpoint pen, whereas you could quite easily beat someone to death with the 3/4” (if so inclined). 3/4” really is a level above if you want to give a tool some stick.

Got my 3/4” breaker on Amazon - think it was a pricing error!
 

Attachments

  • 4CC056CB-97F7-4A02-BF0C-3A0F57E41362.jpeg
    4CC056CB-97F7-4A02-BF0C-3A0F57E41362.jpeg
    5.6 MB · Views: 18
IIRC it's 30 mm, but I could have that mixed up with the hubs on my boattrailer. someone had put green loctite on the threads. That took a lot of heat long bars and force (and of course some cursing) to get them loose. In comparisson to that the Pandahubs were the proverbial piece of cake.
BMW used 36mm (again IIRC).

gr J

32mm on my 05 1.2 don't know if the 100HP are the same ?
 
I couldn't undo one side.

so lashed with rope the trolley jack handle to the breakers bar for extra leverage. Came off very easy with the improvised extra long leverage
 
Back
Top