Interesting. My handbook specifies 75W-80 to API GL5
Technical DIY Servicing Panda
- Thread starter Theleman
- Start date
Currently reading:
Technical DIY Servicing Panda
As you say, Interesting! Oil specs/applications never seem simple.
A little odd. It must be the same gearbox? Maybe FIAT changed their minds between 2004-10!
After changing the oil, the transmission feels much smoother. It would crunch sometimes changing down to 3rd, but that's gone now. Maybe the oil level was low. One of the reasons I prefer to carry out my own service even with FSH.
After changing the oil, the transmission feels much smoother. It would crunch sometimes changing down to 3rd, but that's gone now. Maybe the oil level was low. One of the reasons I prefer to carry out my own service even with FSH.
My 172 Socket set only has normal spanners. You are right.
But I have 3x flexi angle ring spanner set from Draper. They work in rachet action, and the spanner rings float to be fitted to odd / awkward bolts.
I have used them for repairing old washing machine, and they worked great.
I will get them out from plumbing tool box, and add to the 172 socket set.
Last edited:
My handbook just specifies checking the gearbox oil level every 80,000km, I don't know if there's a schedule for replacing it.
Mine's done 95k miles and I'd be surprised if it's been changed before. You could just top it up to the level of the filler plug.
But I've not had my car long, its service was due and I just like to know that fluids are good. Makes me feel happier, and maybe the car too
Mine's done 95k miles and I'd be surprised if it's been changed before. You could just top it up to the level of the filler plug.
But I've not had my car long, its service was due and I just like to know that fluids are good. Makes me feel happier, and maybe the car too
Last edited:
My handbook just specifies checking the gearbox oil level every 80,000km, I don't know if there's a schedule for replacing it.
Mine's done 95k miles and I'd be surprised if it's been changed before. You could just top it up to the level of the filler plug.
But I've not had my car long, its service was due and I just like to know that fluids are good. Makes me feel happier, and maybe the car too
It looks like every 10 years or 80k km, the gearbox oil must be changed.
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/453354-checking-gearbox-oil-2006-panda-1-2-a.html
My Panda is now 10 years old, and it may be due for this service
Gear shifting and putting in action has become a bit less smooth than usual I felt. Maybe this is it.
I'm convinced my car's better for it. It was quite an easy job done from underneath with the car on the ground. The 1litre bottles had nozzles that feed into the filler hole, and there's enough room between the front of the gearbox & the radiator to hold the bottle up & squeeze it in. Just do it after a drive so the oil's warm and undo the 12mm filler plug before the 8mm drain plug.
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,492
- Points
- 3,294
You will get less messy if you just undo the drain plug. Air in the box prevents the oil from flooding all over your arm. You can then remove the filler plug to help the last drops out.
Yes, important to be done with the car flat and level as over or under filing both come with their own detrimental effects. My driveway slopes gently down towards the road so I reverse it onto the driveway, chock the rear wheels and jack the front up. - axle stands used - which then gives me good access. I use a spirit level on the sills and across the bonnet shut panel to get it as level as reasonably possible without getting too anal about it!
Regarding change intervals. In my opinion gearbox oil has a hard job to do, Gears exert unique shear and compression forces on the oil which is very damaging to it's structure yet must still be able to be displaced by syncro rings when they grip their hubs. etc, etc. It's also worth considering that metal traces and "dust" will accumulate and circulate with the oil, even though some manufacturers include a small magnet to trap ferrous particles. One of my "pet hobbyhorses" is trying to educate family members into realising that reverse gear selection is not aided by a synchroniser. That's why, if you move the lever very soon after, or as, you depress the clutch pedal you will grind the gears. Doing this actually damages the edges of the gear teeth in the reverse gear train and results in tiny bits of metal being chipped off which will then circulate round and through the box, getting into bearing races and everywhere else! If you recite the mantra "one banana" silently (or people will think you crazy) to yourself starting as the clutch pedal hits the floor, then enough time will be allowed for the gears to spin down and come to a rest. then you move the lever to engage the gear. (goes without saying that if the car is still moving when you try for reverse you're going to get a crash anyway. Gearbox repairs are often complex and require special tools so expensive. Therefore I like to change gearbox oil at around the 50'000 mile/5 year mark. This is invariably sooner than that recommended by the manufacturer - some of whom now have no recommended change figure!! (not a philosophy I subscribe to) - The oil is not that expensive in the grand scheme of things and I do notice the difference most times it's done (smoother changes and less gear noise). I must profess to being an "unbeliever" on additives too. The oil in a gearbox has a very difficult job to do and a "good" oil will have been very carefully formulated to meet these requirements. Find out what the manufacturer's specification is for your vehicle and then buy a good quality oil which is compliant. Spend your money on the oil not on additives.
Dave, I take on board what you say about the flow of oil being slowed by leaving the filler plug in when you start to drain. However can I recommend that, if it's the first time you've worked on any given vehicle and so don't know how tight the filler plug is, you loosen the filler before you start as it will be most annoying if you can't get it out to refill the box after you've emptied it? Personally I like to drain the oil after I've been on a nice long run so the oil can get fully up to temperature so drains with less being left behind as it will if it's cold and thick. That way, because it's had a good stirring up too, you are going to get as much in the way of "foreign bodies" out as possible.
The car should be fairly level. You may find jacking the car up helps you with clearance for access, but the gearbox is correctly topped up when the oil is up to the filler plug on a level surface.
I don't know if the Panda minds a little extra oil being in there if the front of the car is jacked up? I know on my other (older) cars the oil level on the differential is critical as excess can leak along the driveshafts and contaminate seals, bearings & brakes, so I tend to be quite cautious. I usually add oil until it comes out of the filler hole, then leave the car on level ground until any excess has stopped leaking out before replacing the filler plug.
I don't know if the Panda minds a little extra oil being in there if the front of the car is jacked up? I know on my other (older) cars the oil level on the differential is critical as excess can leak along the driveshafts and contaminate seals, bearings & brakes, so I tend to be quite cautious. I usually add oil until it comes out of the filler hole, then leave the car on level ground until any excess has stopped leaking out before replacing the filler plug.
That's a good idea! I would still prefer to make sure I can loosen the filler plug before the drain plug though
- Joined
- Sep 14, 2009
- Messages
- 19,492
- Points
- 3,294
That's a good idea! I would still prefer to make sure I can loosen the filler plug before the drain plug though
Fair point
You're very welcome, Theleman! If starting to do your own servicing, I would actually suggest changing transmission oil as a good place to start on the Panda. For me it was one of the easiest services I've done, and easier than changing the spark plugs or engine oil (only because my engine oil filter was such a pig to get off).
If it's due in your car, I think you'll notice the benefits of a quieter & smoother transmission.
It helps to gain confidence as well as the satisfaction of knowing you're looking after your own car properly! Good luck & happy fettling
If it's due in your car, I think you'll notice the benefits of a quieter & smoother transmission.
It helps to gain confidence as well as the satisfaction of knowing you're looking after your own car properly! Good luck & happy fettling
Just a thought, Theleman, after reading your other posts that you're thinking of tackling the suspension in time... A gas blow torch (or even better a heat gun which will heat up the item you want without setting fire to surrounding plastic and rubber) is something I've found a very helpful addition to my garage.
Particularly with suspension & steering connections, I often find the hardest part is freeing off rusted nuts & bolts. Especially wishbone / anti roll bar / shock absorber bolts which can rust and fuse to the steel collars fitted to many rubber bushes. It's amazing what a difference it can make getting the things hot (then 'itting it wi'ammer optional).
I just use an ordinary kitchen gas blow torch, but then I did have a merry fire blazing away next to my fuel tank when replacing the arb bushes on a car
Also, six-point sockets rather than twelve can give a much more positive location on a stubborn nut, and reduce the chance of rounding off the shoulders. They can get a surprisingly soft butter-like consistency after a few years. And finally, a good dousing in penetrating oil the day before tackling a job also helps.
) is something I've found a very helpful addition to my garage.Particularly with suspension & steering connections, I often find the hardest part is freeing off rusted nuts & bolts. Especially wishbone / anti roll bar / shock absorber bolts which can rust and fuse to the steel collars fitted to many rubber bushes. It's amazing what a difference it can make getting the things hot (then 'itting it wi'ammer optional
).I just use an ordinary kitchen gas blow torch, but then I did have a merry fire blazing away next to my fuel tank when replacing the arb bushes on a car
Also, six-point sockets rather than twelve can give a much more positive location on a stubborn nut, and reduce the chance of rounding off the shoulders. They can get a surprisingly soft butter-like consistency after a few years. And finally, a good dousing in penetrating oil the day before tackling a job also helps.
Great advice rmjbn. Thanks.
Yes, I do have heatgun and also a blow torch. Heatgun was bought for stripping paint off the windows when they were painted about 3 year ago. Heatgun was cheap from local screwfix for £10, and it still works OK.
Blow torch - I got it this winter when working on sink trap replacement. I had to join some plastic pipes for making further connections to appliances. Joining same diamter plastic pipes was easily possible with one pipe getting blow torched to soft jelly like state, and widened a tiny bit so the other pipe could be inserted. When it is cooled, it makes tight joins. I also use the torch to burn the weeds on patio and lighting wood stoves. Very useful tool, and would be great working on some rusty bolts under the car. Great point.
Need to get some penetrating oils, because all I have is a couple of cans of WD40 in the shed.
I have ordered a set of 12x off-set ring spanners (6-32mm) from amazon, and they are the cheapest ones among some other makes. It is even cheaper than Silverline one, but haven't arrived yet. Not sure if they are hexa or 12 teeth in the ring. Hope it will work ok.
Metal car ramps arrived, so did creeper seat. The ramps worked treat. I put the Panda on the ramp, and also put 35kg stones at the back tyres for tyre choke, and it looked solid and secure (10x rungs on each ramp). Got a pair of Silverline torque wrenches and also impact wrench.
My car tool collection has been increased quite a bit recently thanks to Fiat forum and youtube.
Yes, I do have heatgun and also a blow torch. Heatgun was bought for stripping paint off the windows when they were painted about 3 year ago. Heatgun was cheap from local screwfix for £10, and it still works OK.
Blow torch - I got it this winter when working on sink trap replacement. I had to join some plastic pipes for making further connections to appliances. Joining same diamter plastic pipes was easily possible with one pipe getting blow torched to soft jelly like state, and widened a tiny bit so the other pipe could be inserted. When it is cooled, it makes tight joins. I also use the torch to burn the weeds on patio and lighting wood stoves. Very useful tool, and would be great working on some rusty bolts under the car. Great point.
Need to get some penetrating oils, because all I have is a couple of cans of WD40 in the shed.
I have ordered a set of 12x off-set ring spanners (6-32mm) from amazon, and they are the cheapest ones among some other makes. It is even cheaper than Silverline one, but haven't arrived yet. Not sure if they are hexa or 12 teeth in the ring. Hope it will work ok.
Metal car ramps arrived, so did creeper seat. The ramps worked treat. I put the Panda on the ramp, and also put 35kg stones at the back tyres for tyre choke, and it looked solid and secure (10x rungs on each ramp). Got a pair of Silverline torque wrenches and also impact wrench.
My car tool collection has been increased quite a bit recently thanks to Fiat forum and youtube.
Last edited:
I've tried a lot of releasing fluids over the years. WD40 seems to be the go to these days for many people but where it really excels is at dispersing moisture - the clue is in the WD - if you think it's good try some Plus Gas Formula A. I've never found anything better. GT85 also has a strong following. My American friend favours PB Blaster which seems to be available in a limited way now a days over here.
Just a few suggestions - hope it's helpful?
Jock
Yes very helpful indeed. I have used WD40 for many applications, and it always seems work well. My most recent use of WD40 was, noisy wheel of wheelbarrow. Just a few squirts on the wheelbearing bolt which looked crumbling with rust, and the creaking noise vanished. Magic.
I wasn't sure how effective WD40 would be for freeing locked up bolts on cars, but will give a try. I will make note of the those other fluids, and will give them try as well. Thanks.
