Oh dear, what a chaotic worker! I was not impressed! All that fluid leaking out was not good. If he manages to run the system dry he may end up with ABS unit bleeding problems. An old crisp packet jammed under the master cylinder cap or a hose clamp would quickly and easily stop it. Brake fluid is not pleasant stuff so having it drip on your T shirt? and what if you then transfer it to the paintwork? No, not impressed. By the way, I've been there and "done" the cheese steak - have to say I was less than impressed, but then I'm not a big meat eater.

I agree there is a place for heat when slackening corroded fittings but I wouldn't be doing this to the end of a rubber flex pipe. If you cut open the metal end of the hose you'll find that there is a central smallish diameter metal pipe which the hose is pushed over and then the outside is crimped over it all so compressing the rubber pipe onto the central spigot. That's all that holds it. Applying a lot of heat, which is bound to affect the rubber, is really not a brilliant idea. I'd be soaking the tube nut in Plus Gas (or PB blaster if that's your thing) the night before, then gripping the metal crimped part of the end of the flex hose with a Stilson or Footprint wrench to stop rotation whilst using a suitable spanner on the tube nut itself. If it still won't move then I'd give up on it and be using a flame on the other end of the flex to free the nut on the front to rear pipe and throwing the flex away and fitting a new one. That way you can get a bit more "enthusiastic" with the torch and just cut away the flex and the seized fixing on the other end because you're going to be replacing it. If a fixing is that corroded that you can't free it it's probably needing to be replaced anyway? - a flex hose is pretty affordable.

I really think you need to be very cautious with heat on braking systems with their rubber hoses and internal seals to say nothing of the danger of naked flame near fuels. Take care folks!

I kind of agree and does take experience

I have fully replaced all the ridged pipes on a few cars recently. Seem that the steel ones on Suzuki's are poor quality. I have yet to damage any or had to replace any flexible hoses.


the fitting are thin metal it only takes around 10 seconds to get it hot enough with a decent flame. There isn't enough time for the heat to soak through to the flex it never even gets warm.

it all depends on what your comfortable with and experienced with. If I wasn't using heat and replacing the ridged part. I would cut the pipe and use a socket on it. I have quite a few different sizes metric, imperial , BA and so on. I would try and find one that just taps on.

koalar said:

I would cut the pipe and use a socket on it. I have quite a few different sizes metric, imperial , BA and so on. I would try and find one that just taps on.

Click to expand...

That's one of my all time favourite ways to do this - cut the pipe off flush with the back of the tube nut and use a single hex socket whilst gripping the rest of the fitting with a Stilson type tool to resist the hose twisting.

Since I returned my Oxy-Acetylene welding bottles (insurance company got "scared") I've only got a whacking great plumbers torch which gives a good wide spread of heat for soldering pipes but is no good for the sort of thing we're talking about here, but I have been thinking of getting one of those quite small, peizo igniting etc. Maybe something along these lines: https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-f0132200ja-versaflame-gas-blowtorch/4120d but I haven't made my mind up yet.

I haven't tried that one. I have used one of those baking ones that you fill with lighter gas. They take too long to heat up so the heat soaks through more also if there is the slightest of breeze it will never heat up. I did use one in an emergency but it was a nice experience

its counter intuitive. The quicker you can heat the joint the less stress on the surrounding area.


I have a small plumbers one. If I was to replace it I would be looking at the ones for jewellery soldering type.

not surprised insurance are touchy, one went up at RR they found the tank that went through the roof and was found several hundred yards away. Not quite sure how its even possible ?

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

That's one of my all time favourite ways to do this - cut the pipe off flush with the back of the tube nut and use a single hex socket whilst gripping the rest of the fitting with a Stilson type tool to resist the hose twisting.

Since I returned my Oxy-Acetylene welding bottles (insurance company got "scared") I've only got a whacking great plumbers torch which gives a good wide spread of heat for soldering pipes but is no good for the sort of thing we're talking about here, but I have been thinking of getting one of those quite small, peizo igniting etc. Maybe something along these lines: https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-f0132200ja-versaflame-gas-blowtorch/4120d but I haven't made my mind up yet.

Click to expand...

I don't think they will put out enough heat for freeing corouded bolts ect
It's more soldering a doing heat shrink type thing as they run of butane lighter gas

koalar said:

not surprised insurance are touchy, one went up at RR they found the tank that went through the roof and was found several hundred yards away. Not quite sure how its even possible ?

Click to expand...

My set up was a Portapak so small oxygen cylinder and even smaller acetylene cylinder. Even so it would have made a big mess if it ever went up! Luckily I received training in college and then later went on a BOC course when I started teaching welding in my evening classes. Didn't impress the insurance coy much though. Premiums were "silly", so I just returned the bottles and "furloughed" the regulators hoses and torch. Been thinking about a "mini" set up with disposable oxygen and MAPP gas cylinders but MAPP gas isn't what it used to be so I'm still thinking about it. Might be the answer for this sort of thing though? The flame will be fine, very hot and localized although the MAPP plus you buy now a days is not like the old MAPP which was almost as good - read "hot" - as acetylene but safer.
https://www.aboutroofing.com/turbo-...6CCGGUMfDEskLhh9KniOI4GttQ-zaoFkaApX3EALw_wcB
It's a pity my existing regulators etc don't look as if they will work but maybe the torch (BOC Saphire) might be Ok? Anyway, more research needed.

The thread moved to "proper" gas torches. But the issue was stuck male flare nuts. The problem was not easily visible though the plastic coating had gone a little lumpy adjacent to the fitting. You needed a bright flashlight to see it.

I was replacing the rubber hoses so unclipped the hose from the bracket and cut the rubber. It could now spin the hose off the stuck flare nut. A little heat from a ciggy lighter style flame gave enough to soften the plastic coating and the flare nut came free.

The cut off hose with the end plugged is a handy tool for blocking open flare nuts so the fluid can't drip out.

The zinc plating under the plastic had oxidised and bubbled the plastic enough to seize the nut. The plastic peeled away from the crummy area and no more problem but I did now have bare metal pipe with weakened zinc plate. I covered the bare area with a smear of high solids anti seize paste.

I expected to be replacing the pipe within a year, but three years later, It's still good as new.

When my wife's wheel cylinders need replacing I will fit a pair of long braided hoses from the chassis bracket down to the brake. The cost is about £25 per side. The fronts will stay with rubber hoses so the brake pedal feel wont become overly hard.