Off Topic Ideal for pathological DIY tool buyers

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Off Topic Ideal for pathological DIY tool buyers

DaveMcT

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The 169 Panda is still a great car but owning one does demand a half-decent tool kit.

How about one of these for Christmas. For the Panda owner who has everything. :D

s-l500.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CAR-LIFT-MID-RISE-SCISSOR-MOBILE-PS3600/322128567239?hash=item4b005bdbc7:g:M5kAAOxy3NBSikUb:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
 
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portland_bill

Will this help 'Save my panda'

More WTF than WWF

I'd love one of those, but they say too heavy to stand up without help, so has to stay level. Would mean clearing most of the garage to 'store' it on the floor, to be wheeled outside when needed. I had to make do with the tilting lift instead, as that can be lifted to a standing position and is leaning against the wall.
https://www.cjautos.eu/NEW_3_IN_1_TILTING_CAR_LIFT_p/cl01.htm
Successfully lifted and tilted a 2002 Focus estate, and more recently the Panda to facilitate replacement of the rear axle. Not too difficult with the rear in the air.
 
I'm not sure i'd be brave enough to work under a car held up by that, thats a lot of weight on a very narrow base and looks like it might be a little wobbly, as well as, as already pointed out, you'd need a perfectly flat floor.

We have brick-weave in the drive, something like that would probably push the bricks down into the ground and distort the drive.
 
With 3 crossbeams it's not going to give very good access to mechanicals underneath.


Robert G8RPI.
I would feel very nervous getting under one of those even on a stable and flat surface - looks like you could push/pull it over if you got too violent (as you do sometimes).

One of the workshops I worked in very early in my working life had one conventional 4 poster and 4 hydro pneumatic single post (central pillar) with an "H" shaped platform. By the time you had a major component stripped out and then realised something, maybe a sub frame etc, needed to come off too but couldn't because of the "H" happened regularly. We almost used to fight over the 4 poster! I actually preferred to work on stands!

PS. Clearance looks tight too as he's obviously had to drive it up on thick planks to get the lift underneath in the first place!
 
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Maybe someone could negotiate a FF discount?
portland_bill Any issues with the sill seam when lifting the Panda?
Been thinking about something similar to tide me over until new workshop gets built.
Didn't lift it at the sills.
It is adjustable to three widths, and the narrowest just about sits on the wider chassis members, which give a flat stable base. Could do with being a little narrower. It is adjusted by selecting one set of crossbeams. Will have to cut one set shorter and drill some more holes to make it fit the Panda exactly. Spare sets can be bought from CJ Autos if later I find I need the one I've shortened.
I'm not sure i'd be brave enough to work under a car held up by that, thats a lot of weight on a very narrow base and looks like it might be a little wobbly, as well as, as already pointed out, you'd need a perfectly flat floor.

We have brick-weave in the drive, something like that would probably push the bricks down into the ground and distort the drive.
I'm on paving slabs, some of which are a bot wobbly, but thankfully missed those, so was quite stable. The support platforms are quite wide, and the rubber pad seems to grip well.
We needed to tilt the Focus, so lifted it and raised the rear with the front wheels still on the ground. We were then able to lean over the engine and extract the speed sensor. They grow in!
With 3 crossbeams it's not going to give very good access to mechanicals underneath.
Robert G8RPI.
True, these are best for working around the car, brakes, suspension, etc. Although, apart from the exhaust and handbrake cables, there's not much else under there that needs attention.

I would feel very nervous getting under one of those even on a stable and flat surface - looks like you could push/pull it over if you got too violent (as you do sometimes).
With the Panda raised level, just off the ground, I heaved and pushed in all directions, no movement at all. Very pleased. I was sceptical at first, and had a good look at one at the classic show in 2015, then bought one as they were effectively VAT-free with their show offer.
I put some big torque onto some bolts, didn't even try to move.
One of the workshops I worked in very early in my working life had one conventional 4 poster and 4 hydro pneumatic single post (central pillar) with an "H" shaped platform. By the time you had a major component stripped out and then realised something, maybe a sub frame etc, needed to come off too but couldn't because of the "H" happened regularly. We almost used to fight over the 4 poster! I actually preferred to work on stands!
The first garage I worked at had one of those. Quite a deep hole n the ground I imagine and a real pain for any maintenance. As a result, the seals were well worn, and the air supply had to be left on when raised. One day, we knew it was getting to the point of not to be used, as the compressor was struggling to keep up. The boss only used it to just view something for a few moments, as he stepped out, there was a loud bang, and it hit the ground almost instantly. Car bounced well off its bump stops. Very lucky no-one under it. Never got used again.
PS. Clearance looks tight too as he's obviously had to drive it up on thick planks to get the lift underneath in the first place!
It will just fit under the Panda, gently nudging the exhaust. They actually sell little platforms to drive the car onto, but four short planks work for much less money. Although not needed them yet.

Do need a substantial electric drill to raise it. Or it takes a long time with the crank handle or a ratchet. Coming down seems easier!
 
There is a variant of this, popular in the USA that is two separate scissor lifts one for each sill.A popular brand is QuickJack https://www.quickjack.com/car-lift-systems/bl-3500slx-portable-car-lift.html
They are less stable laterally but do not lift as high. you can use just one if working on brakes etc. If modified to take movable lateral or diagonal tie bars for the top and flat "tray" restraints for the base tailored for the width of your car these could be quite useful. There could be multiple positions for the tie bars depending on what you are working on.

Robert G8RPI.
 
You can pay (many) hundreds for a motorbike lift so around £1000 for this looks quite appealing if you have the space. I would prefer to have a locking support post rather than rely on the hydraulics. But I'm sure the makers have thought of that.

This scissor lift could be tipped on one side and moved with a couple of furniture moving trolleys, but if you have the space for that, why not get a used garage post lift?

I have a fork lift style lift for the motorbike. It slides under from one side and picks up under the footrests and sump. A reasonable mains power drill is used to turn a lead screw to move the lifting forks. It works well even with 1/4 ton of BMW sat on it. It looks like the base is too narrow but pushing (very) hard makes it slide before it tips.

On the Panda I make do with an ordinary jack and axle stands under the sill jacking points. It works well and is safe. I use slotted soft wood blocks between sill and axle stand so the weight is carried on the sill underside not on the welded flange.
 
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I would quote you PB but I've still not really understood how to do these selective quotes! Anyway I wanted to comment on your bit about the ramp which collapsed with a bang! I worked in that garage for about 3 years and ended up shop foreman - big deal, my first taste of management! Those lifts were lethal in my opinion. They had no interlocks of any sort relying solely on the air pressure to hold them up! Luckily there was never a direct safety related incident whilst I was there although it's worth noting that they all tended to sink slowly back down if left for any length of time!

A strange effect, which was really brought home to us by the following incident was that after you had locked off the air supply the ram would continue to rise by about six inches or so, I presume until the air pressure equalized the weight being lifted? On this occasion my youngest mechanic was going to do king pins on a "google eyed" Sprite. I knew he would probably take some time so I stuck him on the one right at the far side of the workshop out of everyone else's way. I heard him drive into the shop - These sprites had quite a nice "sporty" exhaust tone - and every thing went quiet for a minute or so. Then a loudly shouted expletive (I leave to your imagination!). Several of us ran over to his work station but at first couldn't see any thing wrong, he was just standing with one hand on the shut off tap. Look at the seats he said. Why? we asked. They're too high, said he. Indeed they were! The underside of the vehicle was so corroded that the ramp had pushed the entire floor pan up by a good six inches or so! What exacerbated the problem was his inability to immediately stop the ram. Even after he had shut it off it still rose by a few inches which made things worse.

I felt terrible having to ring the young owner and tell him roughly what had happened. He came round almost immediately and was initially, understandably, quite aggressive, but after we had pushed the car, with some difficulty as the prop shaft was a bit bent, onto the 4 poster and shown and explained to him how potentially lethal his car had been he came to realise how it was really for the best that this had happened in the workshop and not out on the road. I vividly remember seeing my young mechanic crawling around on hands and knees peering under the next job I assigned him before going anywhere near the lift with it! The car, of course, was scrapped (how it had an MOT - who knows!) and, it took a couple of weeks for other staff members to stop pulling the lad's leg about it.
 
Many (many many) years ago when I first started in the motor trade, chassis welding was a regular repair requirement. This usually meant being scorched and burnt under a car, but fortunately one of my uncles has a car roller frame which he used for the many repairs to his Morris Oxford.

It was a very sturdy piece of kit which simply bolted to the wheel hubs on one side, then needed a couple of men to literally roll the car safely onto its side to do any work underneath. I used it several times and it was secure and safe to use, and much easier than working upside down.

Of course care had to be taken with any fluids which may need to be drained (petrol etc.) and it was of limited use for axle/suspension repair, but for general underside work was ideal.

The nearest I could find online was this offering below:
https://www.frost.co.uk/body-roller.html
 
Many (many many) years ago when I first started in the motor trade, chassis welding was a regular repair requirement. This usually meant being scorched and burnt under a car, but fortunately one of my uncles has a car roller frame which he used for the many repairs to his Morris Oxford.

It was a very sturdy piece of kit which simply bolted to the wheel hubs on one side, then needed a couple of men to literally roll the car safely onto its side to do any work underneath. I used it several times and it was secure and safe to use, and much easier than working upside down.

Of course care had to be taken with any fluids which may need to be drained (petrol etc.) and it was of limited use for axle/suspension repair, but for general underside work was ideal.

The nearest I could find online was this offering below:
https://www.frost.co.uk/body-roller.html
Always fancied one of these. Fancied the "rotisserie" type even more! But never had the space or large enough garage for it to be a viable reality - Now I'm too old and knackered!
 
I still regret not at least having a go at restoring my VERY rusty VW split screen transporter. To be fair, that was the 1980s when there was minimal value in even a good one. It would have needed a frame welding inside to support the body shell and the chassis was almost certainly scrap or in need of more new metal than original tin.
That would have needed one Hoooge roly-poly (rotisary) frame for welding.

Here's a "project" that's probably best not lifted with the jacking points. :eek:

s-l500.jpg



Check out the A pillar and roof. Not to mention that (one time) 160hp engine with its mag castings
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Citroen-BX-16V-XU9/254001697487?hash=item3b23ae52cf:g:56cAAOSw5-hb~aDo:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true
 
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