After a few months of putting up with the local roads, the car developed a noise from the front driver side. Did a bit of looking around on youtube and it's the top strut mount (sounds exactly like this)

So I've ordered new mounts and at the same time I figured I may as well change the Anti-Roll Bar Links while I'm doing it. They're cheap and from what I've read often fail.

Quick question: Do you need to go and get the wheels re-aligned afterwards? Seems to be a lot of contrasting information online so I thought I'd ask people that have done it.

You shouldn't need too.
You aren't removing the track rod ends or the wishbones, so the strut should just bolt back in where it came out without upsetting anything (anything that could be adjusted)
(Note the way the top rubber bush fits to the inner wing, I seem to think they can go in either way around and not sure if both ways are the same)

But, if the tracking hasn't been checked for a while, it's worth considering, though if the front tyres are low and need replacing soon, leave it until they get replaced.

That was a hell of a job. So much for my thinking of "it should only take about 40 odd minutes each side".

Took several hours since all the bolts on the struts were rusted so took a lot of careful persuasion to undo without striping the top. Had to hacksaw off the drop links on each side, again thanks to rust.

Getting the large nut off the top of the shockers once removed was a pain since you really need the right tool for the job, but I struggled along with large pliers and a bit of swearing.

To top it off, I hadn't put the brake lines perfectly back into their mounts, so when I came to stop on the first test drive out. . . . . pedal all the way to the floor and sod all stopping power!

Things I learnt:

* Jobs are never a few minutes long.

* Rust, always rust.

* I might need new struts and springs for the next MOT, they're quite rusty.

On a plus note, there is no more noise coming from the front end when steering.

ratty said:

Getting the large nut off the top of the shockers once removed was a pain since you really need the right tool for the job, but I struggled along with large pliers and a bit of swearing.

To top it off, I hadn't put the brake lines perfectly back into their mounts, so when I came to stop on the first test drive out. . . . . pedal all the way to the floor and sod all stopping power!

Click to expand...

To be able to remove the top nut with pliers must mean it wasn't torqued up properly in the fist place


The brakes worry me. The amount of fluid doesn't alter regardless of where the pipes are mounted?

It was extremely tight and took a lot force to get off. Other hand still hurts today from how much force was on the allan key.

With regards to the breaks, I can't see any leaks anyway (kept pumping the pedal). Took the wheels off and noticed the line one side wasn't in right. Pushed it further in and the brakes feel the same. Been for a few test drives and done several emergency stops and everything is back to normal.

Will keep an eye out for the next week to see if there's anything leaking. But I'm not sure what else it would be, no leaks and can't see how air would have got into the system.

I plan on bleeding the brakes very soon, but I think I'll put some new lines on as well after this, just incase.

koalar said:

To be able to remove the top nut with pliers must mean it wasn't torqued up properly in the fist place


The brakes worry me. The amount of fluid doesn't alter regardless of where the pipes are mounted?

Click to expand...

I ended up geting a battery nut spinner for this very job.. save so much hassle.

My 2004 active came apart with an allen key and ring spanner... but mk2 punto and cars since were a PIA.. hence the purchase.

I also mullered a couple of the lower nuts and bolts to the struts when I did my sisters.

There's quite a lot of thread hanging out through the clamp and nut that's open to the elements, so they rust up badly and can be difficult to undo if you try and pull all the crud back through the nut when unscrewing.

The bolts have a special thread that also makes them a bit harder to undo, it's meant to stop them rattling loose.

Anything like that it's best to spray them up before hand and use a small wire brush on the threads that are rusty.
Then smear copperslip liberally over them before refitting to try and fend off future trouble.

You might have just forced some brake fluid back through the master cylinder if you twisted or kinked the brake hoses, it has to go somewhere and back is the path of least resistance!

Sometimes only the right tools will do, but you can often wing it.
Keep a bit fuel hose to fit over things like allen keys and use it as a "grip".
It should stop the handle part digging in your hand.

Goudrons said:

I also mullered a couple of the lower nuts and bolts to the struts when I did my sisters.

There's quite a lot of thread hanging out through the clamp and nut that's open to the elements, so they rust up badly and can be difficult to undo if you try and pull all the crud back through the nut when unscrewing.

The bolts have a special thread that also makes them a bit harder to undo, it's meant to stop them tattling loose

Click to expand...

I try and keep a few parts from old jobs..
You can run a nut down ..like a dienut..
To clear a lot of the crud..

Soaking a few days before also helps immensely

When I last did my front shocks I found that the handle from my hydraulic jack fitted over the allen key and gave me plenty of leverage.