Dear 100HP friends,

I need to change the entire Braking set (discs, pads, front and rear) and would like to ask if anyone could recommend an OEM brand like Brembo, ATE, Textar, etc.. and what exact spezifications are needed !

I'm a bit confused cause there are at least 2 different parts listed from almost all suppliers and I don't really understand where the difference is ???

So if anyone would be able to recommend something incl. the correct order info, that would be just great.. !

Thanks a lot, Uwe

I've just done the front discs and pads on my 100 HP and I used Brembo parts. All good so far. Just make sure you use the vented discs at the front and solid discs at the rear.

I used EBC ultimax and am pretty pleased.

Edit: And from the top of my head the fronts are 257 mm (vented) and the rears 240 mm (solid).
Use the right tool to wind the rearcallipers in.

gr J

NL1993 said:

I'm a bit confused cause there are at least 2 different parts listed from almost all suppliers and I don't really understand where the difference is ???

Click to expand...

Are you sure


I have looked at a couple of catalogues and only see one size listed

Such as http://www.national-auto.co.uk/assets/content/documents/brake_disc_cat_-_nov_2014.pdf


However you have a choice of surface finishes plain, grooved and dimpled.

+1 on the Brembo’s, have the discs and pads front and rear on mine and they are great.

Thanks so far.. !

I've checked this as well and right, it's 257mm front vented and 240mm rear solid, but the difference was always given for the contact which is depending on the Braking system.
I'll see then... I'll order Brembos or Textar and worst case is that I need to return or exchange them again.

Fingers crossed it works first time for you

www.mtecbrakes.com
www.ferodoracing.com

Stay away from Brembo Max discs, they are absolutely worthless crap, made in and of recycled China scrapsteel.

Hello again,
I need help -- since the last post I was away several month and my car was in a dry garage - so all ok. However, referring to the last post, I bought the Textar brake set which really include everything. In addition I have ordered all other moving parts so it will be pretty much new all around.

On Saturday I did the front.. and all worked well.. but when I started the back .. Jesus, what a disaster but they still worked -- somehow. Now I made everything incl. removing the suspension, spring and gt the rust away as good as possible. I put the new discs, clips and pads into the caliper, but when I tried to push the piston a little so that it fit for the new stuff, it didn't move at all - not even with the respective tool. I feels like there is a hard block which doesn't mean it's rusty inside, because it can be turned very easily. Can it be that there is a distribution ventil which regulates the brake power front/back based on the load, so that it is fully closed while the Springs are still out? Otherwise I would have no idea why it can't be pushed back...
Btw. handbreak cable are already off but I don't know it they have any impact on the hydraulic system..
I'd be really thankful for any hint !! Thx Uwe

You have to turn them clockwise (great movie BTW) and push at the same time. I use the original Fiat tool on a ratchet and leave the calliper attached with the topbolt.
Important! Make sure the notch in the piston points to the rear so the pad fits.

gr J

A3jeroen said:

You have to turn them clockwise (great movie BTW) and push at the same time. I use the original Fiat tool on a ratchet and leave the calliper attached with the topbolt.
Important! Make sure the notch in the piston points to the rear so the pad fits.

gr J

Click to expand...

Thanks for the answer !
I owe you at least a beer if this works - I'll try it later this afternoon!

Uwe

Let us know how it worked out.
And 0.45 L Grolsch is my favorit Just kidding

gr J

Und, und, und?

Just curious

gr J

The rear piston wind-back tool is a G clamp and ratchet handle. You can do it with a ratchet ring spanner and cut off bolt head push the bolt head against the piston with the G-clamp. Compress with clamp, crank the ratchet spanner and keep tightening the clamp. Wind it too much and the clamp falls off but it will do the job for pennies in costs.

hahaaa... not sure if I find this brand in Germany and then ship it =))))) but it would be deserved !! That was exactly the right hint and it easily worked that way...! Now all 4 wheels are done, incl. cleaning the slightly rusty parts, cleaned the springs and since the plastic coating on the very bottom ring was gone, I also cleaned it and used zinc spray before I made them red and finally... I have used a piece from my garden watertube and put it over the first ring so I guess it is less noisy then and also protected ! I further renewed the bumpers as well and finally applied a bit of zinc spray, black color and at the end Teroson wax to protect all parts.

This morning it was really really nice to drive and the brakes are superb ! The only thing I mind, but which will go away is the crazy stinky wax =))))))


So at the end I made a few pics with my terrible sticky, fingers... !

--> https://c.web.de/@334593825244709591/ulhmY-MQQLikxCxT4k3-Bw

PS: Let me know if you'd have done anything further !!


Thanks again - it really made my day !

Cheers Uwe

Enjoy your Panda 100HP!
Gern geschehen, keine Ursache usw!

gr J

Edit: I hope the surfaces wher the discs connect to the car are 100% flat. Otherwise it'll ruin your discs and cause a wobblle under braking. Not sure if I'd dare to coat them. Otherwise everything looks absolutly great.
And you know what they say. Red callipers (mine are blue) add 10HP to the car

It is pays to use some high solids anti seize paste where the pads contact the caliper so they can move smoothly. Not on the disc surface of course

The sliding pins are best greased with red rubber grease as is used for brake seals. It's sticky but again works well on parts that only make small movements.

I believe the 100HP rear discs are the same items as used on the fronts on other Panda models. I may be wrong of course.

I think the "normal"fronts are solid 240mm's as well. Pads are probably different.

gr J