Girlfriends active has started to play up.


Its difficult to start.


If you take your foot off the throttle it stalls.


If you hold the throttle down for a minute then it will drive fine.


Multiecuscan says the desired idle is 1400 RPM but it starts at 750 RPM and lowers to 700 and stops

There's no error codes logged.


If I blip the throttle while logging a graph it goes straight up and drops slowly. Where as my car goes straight up and down. (mines a 1.2)


Air and coolant temperatures were both about 7 degrees too high but the same on my car. Is that a glitch in version 3.8 ? Fairly sure mine use to be spot on.

I am not near the car. Its stuck 40 miles away.

I guess its the idle control valve fault ?

hi mate check the battery as my old 1.2 used to do that had to start it with foot on the throttle changed the battery and never had problem again

triballofts said:

hi mate check the battery as my old 1.2 used to do that had to start it with foot throttle changed the battery and never had problem again

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Fairly confident the battery is okay but there might be a problem with the ignition switch. Must be a common fault. Mine the same and been dodge for over a year. If you turn the switch to quickly it starter doesn't work


I did log the voltage as it was started and compared it against mine. The battery has less of a drop than mine.


It does appear as if its not raising the idle to 1400 from normal 750 RPM.

Suppose it could be a software glitch. Might disconnect the battery for a reset.

mine had a good battery but was low amp hour so changed it to a bosch its just a thought try the battery off you 1.2 see if its the same first

triballofts said:

mine had a good battery but was low amp hour so changed it to a bosch its just a thought try the battery off you 1.2 see if its the same first

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Sounds lime a sensible suggestion.


Trying to get feel for all possibilities as I will be next at the car on Sunday and no shops/breakers will be open so need to take everything with me.

I think the idle control is now integrated into the throttle body.

Does anyone know which fiats have the same throttle body as a 1.1L 06 active


Is the 1.2 the same ??

Punto ??

Got a plan for Sunday.

Going to clean the throttle body with carb cleaner.

If that doesn't work change it with mine (think they are the same)

If that doesn't work disconnect the battery and reset the ECU

Failing that change the battery for mine.

If all that fails, back to the drawing board

I think I used a 1.2 TB on a 1.1 when I was tracking down an idling problem (randomly idling at 2k rpm then dropping to 700-ish).
I can't be absolutely sure coz it was one I had laying around, but don't remember stripping out any 1.1s so can't think where else it came from.
Didn't fix mine anyway though - was the ECU connectors. Contact cleaner sorted.

Hope yours is an easy fix.

irc said:

I think I used a 1.2 TB on a 1.1 when I was tracking down an idling problem (randomly idling at 2k rpm then dropping to 700-ish).
I can't be absolutely sure coz it was one I had laying around, but don't remember stripping out any 1.1s so can't think where else it came from.
Didn't fix mine anyway though - was the ECU connectors. Contact cleaner sorted.

Hope yours is an easy fix.

Click to expand...

Is this yours or is it a fairly common problem.

Dirty ECU connectors is a pretty common fault, although mine was randomly cycling through rev range and prodding the connectors didn't affect my one. Always worth a clean, but disconnect the battery first. I usually combine it with a slow cup of tea to give the contact cleaner time to dry, and the ECU gets time to forget it's settings.
Then reconnect ECU, battery, cross fingers and turn the key.
Seems to work more often than not.

The issue in that vid isn't the ECU, it's a wire inside that particular part of the loom.
The problems it throws up usually relate to ignition or injector faults and can cause stalling, usually over bumps.

It's very common and only effects the 1.1 for some reason.

Someone posted a fix a while ago.
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/420817-injector-problem-code-p0202-cyl-2-injector-2.html?p=4119624

Goudrons said:

The issue in that vid isn't the ECU, it's a wire inside that particular part of the loom.
The problems it throws up usually relate to ignition or injector faults and can cause stalling, usually over bumps.

It's very common and only effects the 1.1 for some reason.

Someone posted a fix a while ago.
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/420817-injector-problem-code-p0202-cyl-2-injector-2.html?p=4119624

Click to expand...

Definitely not the same as the car I am going to look at tomorrow. No error codes are thrown up.

Just idles below expected until it warms up.

I had a very similar problem some time ago with a 56 plate 1.2 Panda Dynamic, and I found an article in the "Sunday Times" which described my problem exactly. Replacing the air temperature sensor cured the problem. The replacement is an easy 10 minute DIY job, and sensors are about £20 - £30 on ebay. The attached image is the text of the newspaper article

Whoops in the last week it's gone worse. Would have swapped the batteries over except it was flat. So flat all the dials were playing up and not clunk out of the starter motor.

Inspected the battery and the water level was low on the end cell.

Did not risk my battery as if it went flat that would be two cars stuck.

It did start by jump leads. But after a short drive it needed jump leads again.

Took just about everything with me except a battery charger, multi meter and something to clean the battery terminals with.

Basically everything I needed

Cars now fixed.

Took a battery and MAP with me. Fitted starts first time again. Been for a drive seems to be back to 100% again

Got a bigger battery fits the tray just but not as high so the strap does nothing yet. Bit of packing will soon sort that although its clamped at the base.

MAP came of a Punto Grande. Same Bosch part number.

Breakers charged me £15 for the battery and £5 for the MAP

Well cars been running fine now.Turned out to be just the battery. Shorted cell. Charges at high amps and resting voltage is 11.8V

Except. Now it never starts on first cranking but always starts on second attempt though.

Seems to be a lot with fairly new car with this "feature" but can't see fix.

Once started there is no misfire. Expected RPM and actual match which didn't with the faulty battery.

Have to wait till I look at it. Got a different description.

Now told it doesn't crank first time. It just coughs then works second time.

Sounds like the ignition switch. Mine does this unless you turn the key slowly or quite forceful,