Technical o/s/front suspension arm replacement

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Technical o/s/front suspension arm replacement

gerry norris

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Have to replace front right lower suspension arm, It is a straight forward job-couple bolts plus ball joint bolt then release ball joint with ball joint splitter/separator The only thing I notice different is the putting back together you bolt arm back in then jack up arm to a measurement of 187mm between lower edge of arm and upper edge of subframe. have been quoted £167.oo to change arm with the usual years warranty but I notice I can get one made by Magneti Marelli-italy with a 2 year warranty for £34.01 from a firm called Buy car parts. Anybody ever used this particular firm? Anything I should know before I change the arm? IE have I missed anything out?
Many thanks in advance of any replies.
 
Just a bit of info for you;
We bought a lower suspension arm from eurocarparts a couple of years back (sorry, can't remember the exact make) and it had to be sent back as the ball joint taper was machined with the locking bolt groove too low down. A replacement was exactly the same, so we ended up with a Delphi branded one from a different supplier. £39 at the time, and a perfect fit.

Home replacement is no problem at all provided you have the means to safely raise the car :)
 
I've replaced these on both my cars, dead easy and strait forwards, the only issue that I had was some are cast iron and some are steel, if bushes need replacing at any time, you have to state which composition it's made of, and the suppliers also send out the wrong side.
 
The reason to jack the arm up, is to ensure the bushes are least stressed in their at rest position. The measurement is to replicate its position when sat on its wheels.

It should be acceptable to have the car sat on its wheels when the bolts are tightened. It is how I did mine recently, but makes getting the torque wrench onto the bolts more difficult.

I tightened them quite tight with a big spanner. Then dropped the car onto its wheels, bounced up and down on the front to settle the suspension, then torque tightened the bolts. The rear one is not too difficult, as it is vertical. The front ones are more difficult, as you need a quite long extension to get the torque wrench out the front, but supporting it to prevent twist is an art.
 
biggest problem with doing these pandas is the propensity for the pinch bolt to snap
clean the thread with a wire brush cover the thread in duck oil or similar and do something else whilst the oil creeps in
or buy a replacement nut and bolt from fiat at about €5 and just let it snap
i buy my arms from a shop in Ireland via ebay at about €24 delivered
 
Just an after thought changing the arm because Garage says Ball joint rubber is split, WOULD this be a failure on the MOT or an advisory?
 
Just an after thought changing the arm because Garage says Ball joint rubber is split, WOULD this be a failure on the MOT or an advisory?

Split ball joint rubber is advisory unless the joint has worn loose in which case it's a fail. However, an open ball joint will quickly wear and it's almost impossible to clean out the gritty grease.

A worn joint will cause the tyres to scrub (costing money) and eventually will fail in bad ways.
 
I've done a couple of these, fairly simple.

S and B is right, the ball joint pinch bolt can be a pain.

Best to clean off all the nut, bolt heads and thread with a small wire brush and spray them up well before you tackle them.
Use proper fitting sockets rather than open ended spanners too.

Try and steer clear of some of the cheaper arms, they usually only last half as long due to cheap bushes and crappy rubber boots on the ball joints.

I've used Original Birth from Shop4Parts without any issues, with a forum discount they work out cheap enough.
 
biggest problem with doing these pandas is the propensity for the pinch bolt to snap
clean the thread with a wire brush cover the thread in duck oil or similar and do something else whilst the oil creeps in
or buy a replacement nut and bolt from fiat at about €5 and just let it snap
i buy my arms from a shop in Ireland via ebay at about €24 delivered

I think the recommendation is to replace the bolt if disturbed, so new ones always a good idea. They are 10.9 grade, so don't use ordinary 8.8. Nut needs to be 10.9 too.
 
I always use some anti seize paste on the threads. It stops corrosion so worthwhile even when the bolts are plated or have nyloc nuts.
 
Decided on Magneti Marrelli arm,(and also ordered new Fiat pinch bolt and nut from shop 4 parts How important is this measurement part of the reassembly? does it have to be EXACT?
 
How important is this measurement part of the reassembly? does it have to be EXACT?

See post 5.
The rear mount is vertical, so the arm position has little effect. The front mount needs to be tightened as near to its 'normal' position as possible. As the arm moves up and down over bumps, the bush in the front twists. It should be untwisted in its 'at rest' position, which is what the measurement is supposed to achieve. If it is already twisted when at rest, this will shorten its life.

For most cars, having it sat on its wheels, and having bounced on it a few times, will achieve a good result. This is how I did it on mine recently. Only downside is the length of extension you need to get the torque wrench in front of the car to turn it.
 
thanks Portland Bill had seen post 5 was just wondering if anyone else had done it the measurement way that was all. Will try measuring 1st and see how it works out:)
 
thanks Portland Bill had seen post 5 was just wondering if anyone else had done it the measurement way that was all. Will try measuring 1st and see how it works out:)
You could just replace the split ball joint dust cover, or am I missing something?
 
As for changing just the dust cover on the Ball joint, given the Rubber has been split for a while the joint is probably well worn-Also the arm is an original one been on the car from new, So changing the arm seems a better solution to the problem.:)
 
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