Technical Panda Multijet rear shock replacement

Currently reading:
Technical Panda Multijet rear shock replacement

gerry norris

New member
Joined
Feb 11, 2017
Messages
58
Points
22
Just about to do rear shocks When I read in mr Haynes fit new shock tighten bolts loosley fit road wheel lower to ground then tighten bolts:confused: how does one reach top bolt?? In all the years of running a garage never came across this. usually jack up on Beam axle remove road wheels jack under rear shock mount jack up release botom bolt slightly release jack remove bottom o shock from mount remove top bolt remove shock fit new shock let jacy down slightly to rough usual runing position tighten and Torque nuts as required never had any problems with this method before and no twisted bushe,s either
 
I suspect this is some of Haynes standard text used to save writing costs.

On any suspension system it's ideal to finally tighten the shocks when the springs are at the normal loaded position. This allows the ribber bushes to twist one way on droop and the other way on bump. This is probably mandatory for a double wishbone (e.g. old Jag or Triumph) but it's over the top on a train arm beam axle.

Does anyone believe the factory both with all this fuss? Are beam axle Fiats prone to ripping out their rear shock rubber bushes?

When you do fit the upper bolts, be careful to do them first because they are very easy to cross thread. Cross-threading the self cleaning ends will chew the chassis bolt holes and might even shear off if they really get jammed.

I fitted the top bolts leaving them screwed right in but loose. One did go cross-thread and was a nightmare to get restarted.

Then fit bottom bolts with anti seize grease all the way up. I used a battery power drill set on a screw setting to run them in. They take for ever with a ratchet and weeks with a normal spanner. DONT use the drilling setting because the machine will rip around nastily when the bolt goes tight.

I then simply torqued them all up but a trolley jack under each spring pan before tightening would satisfy the most asbergic OCD approach to rubber bush health.
 
Are beam axle Fiats prone to ripping out their rear shock rubber bushes?

I've read that torquing them up not under load does shorten the life of the bushes. So as an aspergic OCD type, I did jack up the beam to compress the springs. As a note of caution - by the time you've compressed the springs enough, the back of the car is very close to lifting up off the axle stands you've put it on, so having it in gear is probably a good idea. :)
 
I've read that torquing them up not under load does shorten the life of the bushes. So as an aspergic OCD type, I did jack up the beam to compress the springs. As a note of caution - by the time you've compressed the springs enough, the back of the car is very close to lifting up off the axle stands you've put it on, so having it in gear is probably a good idea. :)

That would be me as well. I'm also fussy wotsit. ;)

On the safety issue, use bricks or something heavy to chock both front wheels. Leaving it in gear is not really enough as the engine can gradually turn and ....

I have ordinary axle stands so use a 6" length of "2 x 1" timber (between the inner sills and stand) to protect the sill flanges.
 
Back
Top