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Old 29-08-2017   #1
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Lightbulb Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Just bought a rather tidy Panda the other week with only 61,000 on the clock, 12 months MOT for £900. It's a 1.2 standard model, so it's not going to set the world on fire but it seems like a nice comfy car without much wrong



Treated it to some fresh oil, filter, air filter and spark plugs straight away but since there's no record of the belts being done I want to be safe and change them.

I've seen a few guides here and will have a go at home, just want to make sure I'm buying the right stuff for the job:

Dayco Timing Belt Kit

ContiTech Drive Belt

Circoli Water Pump

Is this all I need?

Also noticed the cable cover that looks like the earth from the ECU has melted, which isn't good but doesn't seem to be giving off any heat since I've owned it (might be on old problem) any ideas with that one?

Future plans are simple, I just want to keep it in good nick and make it last as long as possible. Front suspension looks rather rusty so I will probably replace both sides before next MOT and I definitely will be upgrading the head unit and front speakers.

Here's too at least a good few years for happy motoring
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Old 29-08-2017   #2
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

These (1.1 54hp and 1.2 60hp) are non interference engines so are quite safe even if the belt goes.
(later 1.2 69hp engine IS an interference engine)

I've had a few cars with these engines and never replaced a cam belt yet, nor had one let go.

Rusty bodywork hasn't been a problem for this model, but some of the items bolted underneath are.
The rear axle, particularly around the spring seats can rust away quite badly.
It's worth checking and treating asap.
The price of a new axle will scrap the car and good used ones are getting quite rare.

The sump pan can rust up too and when it does, it can leak.
You could try painting it, but I only wipe them over with an oily rag when I change the oil, seems to work as good as anything else.
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Old 29-08-2017   #3
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Smile Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Hi, just had the wife,s panda dynamic 07 reg belt changed, it was original belt 106.292 miles. Used a Gates cambelt kit, local mobile mechanic only charged£175..
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Old 30-08-2017   #4
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Thanks for the info Goudrons, I'll have a good look at the rear axle over the weekend. Fingers crossed it's in good nick.

Haynes manual arrived today and the timing belt section along with the videos on here don't make it seem like that hard of a job. I've got the older engine (square oil cap) so even less to worry about if I bodge it up.

Liking that nearly everything I want to do is a 1 - 3 spanner job according to the book

midnight578 That's a good price, might ring the local garage and see what they can do it for, if it's close to that I might not even bother doing it myself. Although it's my first car in a while and just want to get tinkering with it
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Old 02-09-2017   #5
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

The Fuzz from Car SOS method works well but only if you are not changing the water pump.

Run the engine and run a Stanley knife along the timing belt midline until you have two narrow timing belts.

Slacken the belt tensioner

Cut off the outer half of the timing belt.

Slide the new belt on half way and then cut away the remaining old belt.

Slide new belt on properly and retention.

Job done.
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Old 02-09-2017   #6
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Quote Originally Posted by DaveMcT View Post
The Fuzz from Car SOS method works well but only if you are not changing the water pump.

Run the engine and run a Stanley knife along the timing belt midline until you have two narrow timing belts.

Slacken the belt tensioner

Cut off the outer half of the timing belt.

Slide the new belt on half way and then cut away the remaining old belt.

Slide new belt on properly and retention.

Job done.
That sounds slightly terrifying yet genius at the same time.

Think I'd swap the water pump at the same time, may as well.
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Old 02-09-2017   #7
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Quote Originally Posted by DaveMcT View Post
The Fuzz from Car SOS method works well but only if you are not changing the water pump.

Run the engine and run a Stanley knife along the timing belt midline until you have two narrow timing belts.

Slacken the belt tensioner

Cut off the outer half of the timing belt.

Slide the new belt on half way and then cut away the remaining old belt.

Slide new belt on properly and retention.

Job done.
May I recommend not using a carpet knife on any belt while the engine is running, unless you are absolutely confident that you know what you are doing.
Getting it wrong could be very damaging to your flesh.

It should be possible to cut the belt in two length wise by cutting a bit at a time and turning the crankshaft using a socket , possibly safer.
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Old 03-09-2017   #8
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

I have replaced a few timing belts, cutting them works well, esp' on petrol engines. Take out the spark plugs and turn by hand. Check the timing marks are correct. Cut about 2/3 off using a sharp blade, it's tougher than you might think. make sure the pulley grooves are clean before slipping the new belt on. May need to slacken tensioner but only as much as needed. Cut remaining 1/3 off and check pulley grooves are clean before pushing new belt on fully. tension and check timing. It's usually worth doing water pump at same time.
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Old 04-09-2017   #9
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Fuzz's method works fine with an ordinary stanley knife. A carpet knife tries to cut the whole thickness in one slice which won't happen. Don't even go there.

As we said, if you need a new water pump its only of academic interest.
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Last edited by DaveMcT; 04-09-2017 at 15:16.
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Old 04-09-2017   #10
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Quote Originally Posted by DaveMcT View Post
Fuzz's method works fine with an ordinary stanley knife. A carpet knife tries to cut the whole thickness in one slice which won't happen. Don't even go there.

As we said, if you need a new water pump its only of academic interest.
The generic name for What we call a Stanley knife is carpet knife or utility knife.

The point being Don't use it on a belt on a running machine unless you are 100% confident you won't be injured.

Personally I think it is a very smart way of retaining the cam timing , still worth checking it's set correctly in case previously fitted incorrectly.
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Last edited by jackwhoo; 04-09-2017 at 17:04.
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Old 04-09-2017   #11
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

Absolutely genius but wear eye protection to be on the safe side
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Old 04-09-2017   #12
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

One thing I'm still not sure of is which belt to get.

It's the engine with the square oil cap. How do I check which size (width and teeth) I need. Same with the other items I linked earlier.

On a plus note, new speakers came today (bass face mid and tweeters), wired them up and they worked first time, just waiting for spacers to come so they'll fit and a new mechless headunit from amazon.
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Old 08-09-2017   #13
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

For things like this I call Shop4Parts. They really know their stuff.
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Old 08-09-2017   #14
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Re: Chaning the belts (1.2 2005)

The Fuzz belt change method works for an engine where the old belt is not worn and the tensioner and water pump are ok. The question is how would you know?

Normally you would chuck the old belt and lock the cam. Then the cam wheel is loosened and water pump etc are replaced.

Now the clever bit. Tensioning the belt is likely to change the cam to crank angles so the belt is tensioned with the cam wheels loose. Ideally use a Fiat tensioning tool, but tension should be correct when the belt can be twisted no more than 90 degrees along it longest free run.

Now set the crank at it's TDC marker, confirm the cam is locked correctly and tighten the cam wheel (both wheels if its twin cam). Remove the cam locks and the belt is fitted.
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