Replaced old pads this weekend (the first time I've done something "serious" on a car!) and the pads I used had shims attached to the rear (existing pads didn't).

I understand these are anti-squeal shims.

When applying copper grease to the rear of the pads, would you put the grease between the pad and shim or just on the rear of the shim (and the rear of the pad where visible)?

I have not used anything with shims, but the grease is to go on the part that moves in and out, and only where it's in contact with the caliper, and in a way so it will not touch the disc... hope that makes it slightly easier to figure out..

Interesting question.

Different mechanics will tell you different thing. Each has their own way of working.


Some copper grease (Chinese stuff of EBay stuff) can cause corrosion in certain conditions. Branded stuff like Penrite Copper Eze or Plasti-lube will be fine.

You need to stop the high frequency vibration. The easiest way is with something to dampen between the pad to the calliper piston. Many brake manufacturers also use anti squeal shim. Replacement pads normally don't come with the shim and its swapped over from the back of the old pads. Most garages seem to loose them.


Some brands of pads already have a coating on them. If not a small amount either side of the shim.

If the shim is already stuck to the pad the just to the back

Glad it was an interesting question, and not just a numpty one (my usual sort!).

I couldn't find a definitive answer over the weekend when I was doing it, so I removed the shims and put a thin layer on the back of the pad, then put the shim back on and a thin layer on top of the shim too. Very small amounts used.

I followed the excellent guide on here for replacing the pads, and the only area where I came unstuck at all was dribbling some brake fluid out of the reservoir as I wound back the first pad. I kept an eye out and saw it happening, and then got out a syringe which I'd use for mountain bike hydraulics and decanted a small amount of fluid so that winding them back fully didn't cause any more spillage.

Overall a surprisingly easy task to accomplish and one I'd thought about doing in the past on a Barchetta but never got around to it as the allen bolts to undo the caliper were too fiddly for me. The caliper on the Panda is incredibly straightforward to work with.

Won't be getting a garage to do this job on a panda ever again!

Well done. Always better to do the job yourself as you know it done properly.


Sponge down any spillage as brake fluid is corrosive. Seems to attack hot surfaces the most.

Yup, mopped it all up when I saw some had leaked.

Brake fluid will remove paint not quite as well as Nitromors.

Unless you can be sure it's 100% mopped up, its best to brush some degreaser over any area affected by brake fluid and hose off with lots of water.

Cheers, it was only a small amount and I was confident of getting it all, but its a point well made and usefully noted! Thanks!