General 100HP rear knocking/pop

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General 100HP rear knocking/pop

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Jun 25, 2015
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Hi
The 100Hp has developed a knock/pop from the off side rear. Having read threads on here i changed the rear shocks yesterday and added some bump stops, but it still remains. Sounds like a tool moving around in a plastic toolbox( no, the boot is empty ;)).
Seats are locked in place, seatbelt buckle not touching anything. Knocks on rough roads and little holes etc, but speed bumps dropped kerbs no knock.

Any advice appreciated, thanks.
 
Are the wheels bolted on properly?

Have you left anything inside a spring pan?

Are both shocks properly bolted up?

What else have you spannered while under the car?
 
Check you have not lost part of a rear coil spring, and also the spring supports are sound too. Those B bump stops allow only about 2cm of rear spring travel. No more nails between bump stop and body might do the trick. This knocking seems to be a weakness ofr the 100HP.. I am just about to fit some bump stops from a series 1 Brava to mine to soften it up bit. These are a little shorter and made of rubber not plastic.
 
Are the wheels bolted on properly?

Have you left anything inside a spring pan?

Are both shocks properly bolted up?

What else have you spannered while under the car?

It is the same knock as i had before changing the shocks. no work work done on the car since september, knock started maybe 2 weeks ago. Everything is bolted on correctly.

Check you have not lost part of a rear coil spring, and also the spring supports are sound too. Those B bump stops allow only about 2cm of rear spring travel. No more nails between bump stop and body might do the trick. This knocking seems to be a weakness ofr the 100HP.. I am just about to fit some bump stops from a series 1 Brava to mine to soften it up bit. These are a little shorter and made of rubber not plastic.

The car never had bumpstops when i got. I fitted the ones from shop4parts, listed as 500/panda bump stops. Springs looked fine, no missing bits the rubber at the top was fine. Springs seated in same position as before removal.
 
If it's been run for some time with no bump stops the shock could be damaged.

The broken spring theory is also possible.

Jack up the car (trolley jack under centre of rear beam). Support the body on axle stands. Remove wheels and remove both rear shocks.

Remove and replace the shock bottom bolts first or you risk cross-threading the top bolts.
 
My 1.2 has some tailgate rattles which I have been fixing when I get the time/motivation.
So far:
Half a self-tapping screw from dealer fitted number plate. Was rattling on uneven roads. Quite loud at times.
Tailgate strut ball and socket loose. Made a clunk when hitting potholes.
Low level rattle from hinges. Haven't sorted yet, as it looks like one of the hinges is worn.
Any or all of these could sound like a suspension related noise, so worth eliminating. Lift the tailgate and oscilate it a few inches up and down.
If it clunks, hold each of the struts in turn and repeat. You can "feel" the noise if they have a problem.
If neither strut clunks, probably worn hinge.
If it is something like the rusted off screw, you will hear it roll about when you lift the tailgate.
 
To test the tail gate for rattles, throw a rug over the door sill and hold the door closed with a bungee cord over the wiper shaft to hold the door down.
 
My 1.2 has some tailgate rattles which I have been fixing when I get the time/motivation.
So far:
Half a self-tapping screw from dealer fitted number plate. Was rattling on uneven roads. Quite loud at times.
Tailgate strut ball and socket loose. Made a clunk when hitting potholes.
Low level rattle from hinges. Haven't sorted yet, as it looks like one of the hinges is worn.
Any or all of these could sound like a suspension related noise, so worth eliminating. Lift the tailgate and oscilate it a few inches up and down.
If it clunks, hold each of the struts in turn and repeat. You can "feel" the noise if they have a problem.
If neither strut clunks, probably worn hinge.
If it is something like the rusted off screw, you will hear it roll about when you lift the tailgate.

Thanks will have a look tomorrow. The window repair guy was quite aggressive last year when he was shaking glass out of inside of tailgate. He soon stopped when i clocked him. The more i hear it the more i am convinced its coming from inside the car.
 
Has something got loose under the back seat cushion? Had a busted spring on a Clio a while back it sounded like a spanner rattling under the back seat but was in fact the o/s/f spring. It took a second person (me)moving around inside the car while someone else drove before we finally pinpointed the location. Could it be something loose inside a rear light unit?
 
I think iv found the problem after reading other threads. The rubber stopper on tailgate. The drivers side one wasn't out as much as the other. They both look like they have had better days. I have adjusted both to there limit. Still get the very occasional knock but no where near as bad. Will order some new ones and see.
I did check the struts, no clunk when opening and closing.
 
Hi I too have a knock at the rear behind the driver side
Changed springs
New shock absorbers
Swaped wheels over
Drove with tailgate open
Removed rear seats and spare wheel

The knock is at 20mph on bumpy side roads
Main roads it’s fine

Had garage to check rear axel bushes and they don’t think it’s that
If I had to name anything ide say it’s coming from around the fuel tank area

Can anyone shed any light on this please
 
my girlfriend's 100hp has a knock on the nearside rear when driving off my drop curb. The rest of the time you can't hear anything.

No idea what it is. Checked the usual and mentioned it at the MOT. Can't find anything obvious.
Sounds like a spring moving to me.

Had a rattle before that was the boot struts. Put some foam pipe insulation round them and that stopped it
 
Check the hand brake cable clips under the rear axle. They widen over time allowing the cable to move about. I flipped the brake cables out, wrapped some self amalgamating tape around the bracket areas and refitted them with cable ties to prevent excessive movement.

You will need to disconnect the cables at the brake caliper lever arm.

Also check the stub axle studs are fastened up properly. All should be fine but always worth a look.
 
Yesterday I removed the rear seats and spare wheel and left the tailgate open while I went up the road
And it’s still knocking
I haven’t renewed the axel bushes cos
I cant find any play in them
 
Check the hand brake cable brackets. Mine were loose enough for the cable sleeve to bang on the underside of the swing arm. Wrapping in tape, tightening the clips and strapping in with a pair of zip ties at each clip keeps them correctly in place.

I used pipe pliers (carefully) to close the clips with the cable in place. Tighter but not too tight.

Disc brake stone covers can rattle as can brake pads. Exhaust is a common favourite bit that's on the left side.
 
take the shock back off.


Check the bolts in the bushes


they should be a snug fit.


its not the first time shocks have been supplied wrong size bushes
 
When I jack the car off the ground I put a plank of wood under the rear tyre and a brick to use as a cantilever and when I put load on the plank there is no play in any of the moving parts or no clunking of bolts or bushes
It only seems to happen on side roads
Main roads over 25mph it’s perfect
 
My wife's 1.2 Dynamic has weak gas struts on the back door which has meant I've noticed how loose the hinges are. It clunks as you push it open. Soon enough I'm expecting the hinges to start clunking over rough roads.
 
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