Technical Question about OBDII and loose wire

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Technical Question about OBDII and loose wire

tibrocks

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Hello everyone,

Recently got a 2006 Panda Diesel, 1.3 Multijet and last week the Engine warning light came on while driving.

I tried cleaning the 2 ECU connectors as recommended somewhere but light is still on..


Then I ordered an OBDII scan tool, a KONNWEI KW902 bluetooth module thinking that I could use it with the Torque app on my android tablet and check the Engine fault codes

The Scanner lights up and is detected in Torque app but it never connects to ECU..? any suggestions why?

also, whilst inspecting the engine I noticed a loose wire next to the coolant tank, it looks like this:

Fiat_wire_WEB.jpg

Fiat_wire2_WEB.jpg


Not sure if this is related to the warning light in the dash but where is this wire plugged?


Many thanks!
 
Hello everyone,

Recently got a 2006 Panda Diesel, 1.3 Multijet and last week the Engine warning light came on while driving.

I tried cleaning the 2 ECU connectors as recommended somewhere but light is still on..


Then I ordered an OBDII scan tool, a KONNWEI KW902 bluetooth module thinking that I could use it with the Torque app on my android tablet and check the Engine fault codes

The Scanner lights up and is detected in Torque app but it never connects to ECU..? any suggestions why?

also, whilst inspecting the engine I noticed a loose wire next to the coolant tank, it looks like this:

View attachment 160351

View attachment 160352


Not sure if this is related to the warning light in the dash but where is this wire plugged?



Many thanks!

Hi, and welcome, :)
not done any work on a 1.3.. so can't assist there, :eek:

however the OBD socket should work as long as the ignition is on..,
so persevere.. or try another device in it.., ;)

I use MultiECUScan , :cool:
as it's the best for FIAT / Alfa vehicles within a sensible budget,
BUT have a £30 multi-car scanner too, :rolleyes:


IF you're anywhere near Oxford.. you're welcome to have a demo., :)

Charlie - Didcot
 
Don't know what the connector is for, but why is you coolant tank black - mine is transparent with pink fluid in it... Take a look in the coolant tank, if the liquid in it is black, I have some bad news for you...
 
I'm not 100% sure where that wires fits, but on looking at some images around the 'net it looks like it runs down the front of the engine down below - front of the oil filter housing.

So I would guess it might be the wire for the oil pressure switch which I believe is under the oil filter.

This might account for your engine light.
 
I think Goudrons is right.

It should run down under the front left of the engine. It is clipped twice - once at the base of the oil filler tube (yellow-capped tube by oil filter housing) and then below it on the engine block right beside the accessory drive belt - just visible looking straight down at the front left.
If you lie underneath, you should see the socket that this plugs into. If you thoroughly clean both plug and socket (your pic shows a very dirty plug), use electrical contact spray, and reconnect them, you should be on the right track to solving the problem.

My question would be why is it unplugged?
 
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Thanks guys -

@varesecrazy - thanks, I do remember trying with the ignition switched on..
I will install MultiECUScan on my laptop..

but I'm thinking, the Bluetooth scanner itself does not connect to ECU (the tool has an 'OBD' LED that never lights up hence not communicating with the car?)

@dandt87 - yes indeed, the coolant tank is very dirty - what's the bad news? :(

@Goudrons and @Sweetsixteen thanks for your help rooting the wire.. it's indeed very dirty, I think I bought the car that way, the wire was loose behind the headlight..
I'll give it a clean and connect it back.


>>anyone had any experience with this KONNWEI KW902? can you recommend me a simple/cheap tool for reading the codes?


Cheers!
 
It's more than a worry if engine oil and diesel are found in the coolant system.
As diesels run such high compression, if the head gasket leaks on one it will empty the contents of the engine into the coolant system.

Usually it's quite a violent process, popping coolant pipes, blowing expansion bottles and splattering the engine bay, but a small leak will cause the coolant to turn black and oily a little slower.

A petrol car tends to leak the other way, allowing coolant into the cylinders/engine oil.

I have one of these
http://torque-bhp.com/wiki/File:Clone6.jpg
Ebay for a couple of quid.
I use it with an Android device like a smartphone or tablet which runs Torque Pro (from Google Play)
It reads all the generic engine DTCs on everything I've ever plugged it in to. Fiat, Jaguar, Pug, Citroen, VW, Land Rover, Afla.
You can turn off EMLs and scan and log most of the engine sensors.

It's small and handy to keep in the glovebox, as you usually have your phone with you most of the time.

If you're in London, I would happily scan the code for you if you can get the car to me.
 
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Thanks guys -

it back.


>>anyone had any experience with this KONNWEI KW902? can you recommend me a simple/cheap tool for reading the codes?


Cheers!

The KW902 should work according to the specification. Do you have access to another car to try it on? 3 possible issues,
1/ faulty interface (I don't know if the KW902 suffers from the ELM 327 120 ohm resistor issue)
2/ faulty car
3/ software or user error.
Another car MAY rule out 1 or 2. If you have a multimeter check the resistance between pins 6 and 14 on the KW902, if it is around 120 ohms (should be more than 500) the interface needs modification

Robert G8RPI.
 
Well if it's dirty on the outside - that's fine. If it's black because of the liquid inside of it is black then you have oil in your coolant - maybe a head-gasket leak - check the coolant and the oil level.
 
It's more than a worry if engine oil and diesel are found in the coolant system.

Well if it's dirty on the outside - that's fine. If it's black because of the liquid inside of it is black then you have oil in your coolant - maybe a head-gasket leak - check the coolant and the oil level.

Yes, I'm worried about that as well.. I'll keep an eye on the levels and will probably replace the gasket soon..



The KW902 should work according to the specification. Do you have access to another car to try it on? 3 possible issues,
1/ faulty interface (I don't know if the KW902 suffers from the ELM 327 120 ohm resistor issue)
2/ faulty car
3/ software or user error.
Another car MAY rule out 1 or 2. If you have a multimeter check the resistance between pins 6 and 14 on the KW902, if it is around 120 ohms (should be more than 500) the interface needs modification

Robert G8RPI.

I thought it should work too.. unfortunately I can't try it on another car... but will check the pins with a multimeter, that's a good point
Goudrons would be good to try your scan tool - thanks!
 
If you are near to me (SE1) you're welcome.

Thanks! just found out the Konnwei has the 120 ohm issue, mine measures 118 ohms between pins 6 & 14...

I'll try to replace it but if I don't manage I'll write you a PM to meet next weekend :)

I found the blue ones on eBay but there's version 1.5 and 2.1, which one works on Fiat and also on Diesel engine? can you check which one do you have?


Cheers
 
Hi again, I managed to read the fault code - P0401 - any suggestions with this?

Secondly, and much worse.. checked the coolant tank and has traces of oil in it.. what I feared most.. :( what else, apart from the head gasket could cause this?

what should I do next? if you have recommendations on how to proceed with this - to save time and money - would be greatly appreciated..

Thanks
 
P0401 is an EGR problem.
(Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
This is a valve on diesels that allow exhaust gas to recirculate back around to the air intake when the engine is running in certain conditions (when running lean, like the over run), it reduces Nitrogen Oxides (as VW well know!)

A problem has been detected with the amount of exhaust flow through it.

It's a very common issue with diesels as diesel exhaust contains a lot of soot and also the engine crankcase breather plumbs into the air intake.
This leads to a cocktail of black gunk of engine oil vapour and soot that clogs up these valves.

You might be able to remove it and clean it out, but it is possible the motor that opens and closes it has failed.
You'll find the valve just before the inlet manifold, fitted within the air intake pipe from the intercooler and will have a small pipe running from the turbo/exhaust.
https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Product&ProdID=4954&gclid=CJyz9-WjuMgCFULnGwodDHUCkA

I am not sure what to suggest in regards to the coolant.
As I wrote before, diesels tend to blow their head gaskets violently into the coolant system.
It might be worth draining out the coolant and flushing it out with a hose pipe, refilling and see what happens to the clean coolant before you strip the head.

Just a thought, does anyone know if the oil filter housing has a heat exchanger on it, and if so, does it use the engines coolant?
Perhaps the coolant and oil are mixing there??
 
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Just a thought, does anyone know if the oil filter housing has a heat exchanger on it, and if so, does it use the engines coolant?
Perhaps the coolant and oil are mixing there??

Hmm, a quick look at a used oil filter housing on the 'net and it appears they do have a heat exchanger attached.
This might account for the loose wire you found, someone might have been messing with the oil filter housing.
 
Just been on the phone with someone from a local garage and he said that although the head gasket is a possibility, the 'oil cooler' is much more frequent..

this would be the same as the heat exchanger I presume..

Thanks, looking into it now - and will try cleaning the EGR valve as well
 
Yeap, that's it.
It's on the bottom of the oil filter housing.

I reckon someone's already been at it, hence the loose wire from there you found.

Yes.. most likely. Would I be able to replace this myself? I found the replacement part on eBay for about £55 .. but not sure about the access there..
I would then flush the cooling system and see if it works?

This it quite interesting
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/428070-egr-delete-easy-way.html

I'd want to make sure the valve was closed before I fitted this otherwise the engine might be sucking exhaust all the time, but it would sort the EGR problem forever and it's cheaper than a new valve.

This is a great find, definitely going to try it. Only thing is - how do I know if the valve is closed? any other way than taking everything apart to look at it?

Cheers
 
I'm not sure of the access, you might get at it from under the front, but it'll probably be tight.
You'd need to drop the oil and coolant anyway, as both run through the housing.

If you're going to fool the ECU with that delete mod and don't want to strip the EGR down, you could make and fit (or buy) a blank, this will stop all the exhaust gases whether it's stuck open or closed.

Fit a sturdy piece of metal 2 or 3mm steel or 5mm alloy in the joint of the EGR's exhaust feed like this.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EGR-blanking-blank-plate-VAUXHALL-1-3CDTi-FIAT-D-JTD-SUZUKI-1-3DDiS-LANCIA-1-3-/110899042947?hash=item19d2191a83
I believe this is the correct blank.

Without the EGR delete mod, fitting a blank will eventually cause the engine management light to come on (and give you that P0401 again) as Euro 5 emissions regs state EGR operation/failure is linked to the engine management system. (Euro 4 didn't)
That delete mod fools the ECU into thinking it's all working correctly.

There's no real mechanical problem with doing this, mpg may improve slightly, engine should be a little more responsive and our MOT emissions test is soot based, not NOx, so it's win win.

I know what you're thinking, yes modern diesels are a lot more fussy, harder to fix and a lot less reliable than the older ones!
 
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