Right im still stuck.

Wiring all sorted and reading correct.

egr replaced and MAF replaced and still i have an engine warning light reading egr.

any advice?

Suggestion: Disconnect the mod (if it's still wired in) and reconnect the egr circuit. Run the car, starting and stopping the engine several times, and see if the light goes out.

See a chiptuner.

Just as an aside, when people are talking about airborne pollution I have to admit that I'm a little confused.

When I say confused, what I mean is that we are fed plenty of rhetoric but very little of it is made relevant to what we can see, and smell.

As I'm now advancing rapidly towards sad old git-dom I can well remember starting work in Manchester City Centre in 1973.....yeah, yeah, yeah I know a large number of members on here weren't even born then, but my overwhelming impression of the city centre was dirt. Almost every building seemed to have a coating of grime.

By that time we'd had decades of cotton weaving, steel making, chemical manufacture and locomotive building. There were countless other industries that used coal and steam. There had also been nearly 150 years of steam trains and there was no such thing as pollution control equipment on cars. Most diesels were trucks and buses which used to spew out smoke like it was going out of fashion.

On top of that most houses still had coal fires and and solid fuel central heating. In fact they were still building houses that used coal in that year.

So the gap between the rhetoric and perception is this: If there is very little heavy industry, almost no cotton weaving in the North West, no steam trains and very few domestic users of coal, where is all the pollution coming from?

Add into the equation that, although there are way more cars than in '73, there can't be many petrol cars in regular use that don't have catalysts and even my 10 year old Panda MJ is far cleaner than diesels of 10 years earlier. One day last week I was standing next to a coach for 10 minutes before I realised its 10 litre Volvo engine was actually running.

Still, the discussion above about EGRs and DPFs, none of which we had in 1973 which was, b****y 'ell, 42 years ago, brings me on to another kind of pollution suppression, namely Ad Blue as used in countless HGVs and Mercedes diesel cars. Unlike the EGR/DPF gubbins, I'm not sure that Bluetec cars run any better or worse without the urea. I hired a C220 CDi recently and there was no mention in the bumpf that came with it about filling up the Ad Blue tank and nothing on the dash (that I could see) that told me if it needed topping up. So perhaps Bluetec type systems could be the biggest emissions scam of them all. Most of these kinds of cars are acquired through leasing companies and are only kept for three years they won't actually have an emissions test until their second owner takes delivery. Perhaps you only have to top it up once a year just before its MOT.

So, where does the air polluition come from?

Hi all

I'm looking here as I was directed this way by sweersixteen.
Has anyone tried this mod on a Sedici?
Mines giving a misfire around 1800 rpm.
I took the valve apart and cleaned it a while back, good for a few weeks and now rubbish again.

The Beard said:

Just as an aside, when people are talking about airborne pollution I have to admit that I'm a little confused.

When I say confused, what I mean is that we are fed plenty of rhetoric but very little of it is made relevant to what we can see, and smell.

So, where does the air polluition come from?

Click to expand...

Since 1980, at least once a year, we've visited the UK by car, last year just before Christmas, we've been a few days in Kent, in our Alfa GT jtd.
This car is equiped with automatic climate control and on top of that, a pollution sensor (sniffer) mounted in front of the car.
This sensor shuts of incomming air, when pollution is present.
It works great when driving behind a big lorrie, or whenever there's someone burning wood etc.
There's a small light indicating when the device is working.
Anyway, as soon as we entered the UK last year, the sniffer almost all the time did shut of incomming air....
The indicator was on for such a long time, I suspected a broken sensor...
So back home, I ordered a new sensor, but it's still on the shelf in my workshop....because once we entered the mainland again, it worked like it ought to...
So my conclusion is that there's still a LOT of pollution in the UK, not noticable, but still present.
We're going again just before Christmas this year, so let's see what happens now...

alanhlp1 said:

Hi all

I'm looking here as I was directed this way by sweersixteen.
Has anyone tried this mod on a Sedici?
Mines giving a misfire around 1800 rpm.
I took the valve apart and cleaned it a while back, good for a few weeks and now rubbish again.

Click to expand...

The short answer is that any EGR valve that is computer controlled - ie, that receives a variable signal from the ecu - can be electronically bypassed. That alone won't cure your misfire though - the misfire is probably a separate problem.

I am working on a much simpler circuit without a transistor, just with a couple of resistors and a diode, that might just do the trick on a Sedici. I will test it first and post again if it works. I have used this simpler circuitry before on an earlier car (not a Sedici) and it was successful, but guarantees there are not!

The Beard said:

Just as an aside, when people are talking about airborne pollution I have to admit that I'm a little confused.

So the gap between the rhetoric and perception is this: If there is very little heavy industry, almost no cotton weaving in the North West, no steam trains and very few domestic users of coal, where is all the pollution coming from?

I hired a C220 CDi recently and there was no mention in the bumpf that came with it about filling up the Ad Blue tank and nothing on the dash (that I could see) that told me if it needed topping up.... Perhaps you only have to top it up once a year just before its MOT.

So, where does the air polluition come from?

Click to expand...

I suppose this discussion could go on forever. Problem is, there are so many types of pollution. Some you can see, some you can't, some have an immediate effect and some become obvious way down the line.

I can remember driving with my father in 'peasoup' fogs in London, where I had to sit on the bonnet and shout directions so he could work out where the road was! Pollution is very different now. Our roads may one day stink of sheeps pee (urea)! Or maybe it all comes from E-cigarettes!

Peter Pick-Up said:

This car is equiped with automatic climate control and on top of that, a pollution sensor (sniffer) mounted in front of the car.

Click to expand...

What types of pollution does your sensor sense?

And can it be tuned to shut off mother-in-law pollution?

And to think that you were breathing pure French air all the time you were in the UK!

The Beard said:

...brings me on to another kind of pollution suppression, namely Ad Blue as used in countless HGVs and Mercedes diesel cars. Unlike the EGR/DPF gubbins, I'm not sure that Bluetec cars run any better or worse without the urea. I hired a C220 CDi recently and there was no mention in the bumpf that came with it about filling up the Ad Blue tank and nothing on the dash (that I could see) that told me if it needed topping up. So perhaps Bluetec type systems could be the biggest emissions scam of them all. Most of these kinds of cars are acquired through leasing companies and are only kept for three years they won't actually have an emissions test until their second owner takes delivery. Perhaps you only have to top it up once a year just before its MOT.

Click to expand...

Selective Catalytic Reduction (that's AdBlue to you and me) is perhaps the only NOx control system which actually 'does what it says on the tin' in real world testing. If you believe the various reports on the technology, it keeps NOx emissions within limits in all driving conditions without significantly impacting either economy or performance. It's the system of choice for most current production diesel trucks & buses.

See the following notes from Mercedes, which suggest the tank is large enough to only need refilling as part of the car's normal servicing plan.

If the system is running low, you get a warning message on the dash; if it runs out, the car can't be started.

Read more about it here.

What is AdBlue® and why is it used?
Mercedes-Benz Genuine AdBlue is composed of urea and de-ionised water. It is injected into the exhaust gasses of selected diesel engines as a post combustion process. Mercedes-Benz vehicles using AdBlue® technology are identified with the ‘BlueTEC’ symbol. AdBlue’s® purpose is to reduce the percentage of harmful NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) found in the vehicle’s emissions. With BlueTEC technology, Mercedes-Benz has been able to heavily reduce exhaust gas emissions while at the same time maintaining the performance of diesel engines in terms of power and torque output.

Where does AdBlue® need to go in the vehicle?
Mercedes-Benz Genuine AdBlue must only be poured into the vehicle’s separate AdBlue® tank – AdBlue® must not be put into the diesel fuel tank. Do not mix AdBlue® with any additives and do not dilute AdBlue® with water.

How often does AdBlue® need to be used?
The vehicle will not operate unless there is sufficient AdBlue® in the vehicle’s AdBlue® tank. The size of the AdBlue® tank has been designed so that a customer should not have to refill AdBlue® in between service intervals, however an individual vehicle’s AdBlue® consumption may be higher depending on operating conditions.
On average, 1 litre of AdBlue® should last around 1,000km, however usage can be higher depending on how the vehicle is driven and the conditions that the vehicle is subjected to.

• Every A Service AdBlue® tank is refilled / topped up
• Every B Service AdBlue® tank is drained and refilled

If the amount of AdBlue® in the vehicle reaches the minimal level before an A or B Service, a message will appear on the instrument cluster.

Can I use AdBlue® from a bottle that has previously been opened?
No. You should use all of the Mercedes-Benz Genuine AdBlue product in the bottle at the one time and then put the empty bottle in the recycling bin. Once opened and exposed to air, AdBlue® bottles with leftover AdBlue® fluid cannot be stored as the purity of the fluid will be compromised.

Does AdBlue® have a lifespan?
Yes. Due to the limited durability of AdBlue®, AdBlue® has a 2 year lifespan from date of production. It is essential that AdBlue® is stored between minus 5 degrees and 20 degrees Celsius. AdBlue® can decompose if it is stored at 30 degrees or more for extended periods of time - ammonia can form in such instances.

Don't know what it senses...it's made in Japan by NTK (NGK)...
So maybe it can shut of Japanese mother-in-law smell...
But it did not detect French garlic smell last year..

jrkitching said:

See the following notes from Mercedes, which suggest the tank is large enough to only need refilling as part of the car's normal servicing plan.

If the system is running low, you get a warning message on the dash; if it runs out, the car can't be started..

Click to expand...

See my earlier post on a related thread, which updates this Mercedes bulletin, as follows:

"Mercedes will fill your Adblue tank free at each service - that's every 10k miles - or you can fill it yourself whenever you need. There is even an app showing recommended Adblue garages.


Originally, your car would stop if you ran out, but now it goes into limp until you refill again. You get plenty of warning. The display begins counting down when just 3 litres are left in the tank - that's about 1800 miles or more of motoring.


Trucks, trains and tractors are all steadily switching over to SCR technology. So far, it's proving a very reliable and robust system. Time will tell of course ...."

Peter Pick-Up said:

Since 1980, at least once a year, we've visited the UK by car, last year just before Christmas, we've been a few days in Kent, in our Alfa GT jtd.
This car is equiped with automatic climate control and on top of that, a pollution sensor (sniffer) mounted in front of the car.
This sensor shuts of incomming air, when pollution is present.
It works great when driving behind a big lorrie, or whenever there's someone burning wood etc.
So my conclusion is that there's still a LOT of pollution in the UK, not noticable, but still present.
We're going again just before Christmas this year, so let's see what happens now...

Click to expand...

look forward to your findings.., enjoy the trip..!!

varesecrazy said:

look forward to your findings.., enjoy the trip..!!

Click to expand...

That was last year.....and the sensor didn't detect as much as the trip before...
This year we're going to Oberhausen in the Ruhrgebiet, Germany.
Also we decided to spend our annual holiday next year ( 2017) in the UK ( again), but we will be driving our new Alfa Giulietta 1,4 Turbo, instead of the Alfa GT jtd.

Thanks for post this, but which type of Transistor is correct BC337-25 or BC337-40? and type current Diode some have 3.3v some have 12v but which is correct?

The recent pollution problems in South East England were largely caused by the gentle eastern winds bringing pollution from the continent. Adding that to our own mess along with non moving air over London caused some serious problems.

We clearly need to sort out our own problems but we cant do anything about imported pollution.

By the way Im not convinced that diesels are the big culprits they are being claimed to be. Its highly likely that huge sums will be spent scrapping perfectly good cars only to find the air pollution episode continue unabated.

The biggest issue with diesels is not the engines but the fuel. Biodiesel (methyl ester) is massively less polluting than ordinary petrol-diesel. I'm not promoting bio as it has its production problems but ordinary diesel oil, really is nasty stuff.

The press and car industry constantly say how electric cars are pollution free. Unless they are charged only with renewable energy, this is just completely wrong. They are also very energy hungry, both in manufacturing and the conversion efficiency from the primary fuel (coal/gas/nuclear/renewable) down to turning the tyres on the road.

The USA ran a project to evaluate fuel production from aquatic algae. Some of these are 50% oil and they grow in brackish water so no competition with agriculture.

Some basic information https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquatic_Species_Program
Close out report http://www.nrel.gov/docs/legosti/fy98/24190.pdf

Costs are higher than petrol fuels but that doesn't account for the costs of pollution.

Sweetsixteen said:

Anyone who's blanked off their EGR will know that performance is improved and economy is better. Although this EGR Delete mod is really intended as a 'peace of mind' mod - clean air through the engine without the egr sucking volumes of dirty half-combusted products back through the combustion chambers - it also makes for an engine with longer life. No EGR problems ever, because it stays closed all the time.

But the add-ons are good. The turbo spins up a little easier giving more punch, and this allows a lighter right foot for the same acceleration. More economy, better performance and a cleaner motor.

We've all got our favourite 'test hill'. There's one particular hill near me that I previously had to drop down to second to get up quickly. Now I notice that I can get up it in third with the engine pulling just right.

Click to expand...

I am considering doing the same thing on my Panda Multijet, but will just be removing the cable going to the EGR.

However there is one concern. I did the same thing on a petrol VW lupo several cars ago, which was cutting out while driving due to faulty EGR. I removed the control cable and problem sorted! no more cutting out
However some 18 months later the car suddenly started using up copious amounts of oil to the point that I was having to top up the oil after every journey. No visible leak or smoke. My fear was that by deactivating the EGR the engine had got too hot and valve seats, piston rings etc were undergoing premature ware allowing oil loss. I have heard EGR reduces combustion temp.

It might not have been the EGR deactivation at all it could have just been that this engine wear was due to poor materials, lack of frequent oil changes etc.

However I do know diesels don't get as got as petrol engines and the materials in Diesel engines are much more durable to withstand the high compression in a diesel. So I'm not sure if it disconnecting EGR will be as much of a problem in my multijet diesel?

My Multijet has now had the egr disabled for well over 18 months, and I always run it with the lower grille blanked off.

In addition, it has oversize wheels, a permanent roof rack ( not just the standard roof rails), and regularly carries loads or pulls a trailer.

It has never shown any signs of overheating. I also have a bigger diesel car which has had the same egr and grille-blanking treatment - with no adverse effects (it's now on 186k miles).

I do not believe that cutting out the egr cycle has any detrimental effect on engine life - just the opposite!

Bear in mind that if you just remove the cable on your egr (by unplugging the electrical connection) you will get an eml. Clear the light and it will return. As long as you're prepared to accept that, you will have successfully shut your egr and it will not open - as long as it is not too gummed up to shut, that is!

Sweetsixteen said:

My Multijet has now had the egr disabled for well over 18 months, and I always run it with the lower grille blanked off.

In addition, it has oversize wheels, a permanent roof rack ( not just the standard roof rails), and regularly carries loads or pulls a trailer.

It has never shown any signs of overheating. I also have a bigger diesel car which has had the same egr and grille-blanking treatment - with no adverse effects (it's now on 186k miles).

I do not believe that cutting out the egr cycle has any detrimental effect on engine life - just the opposite!

Bear in mind that if you just remove the cable on your egr (by unplugging the electrical connection) you will get an eml. Clear the light and it will return. As long as you're prepared to accept that, you will have successfully shut your egr and it will not open - as long as it is not too gummed up to shut, that is!

Click to expand...

That sounds good, but what do you mean by blanking the lower grille, how did you do it?

Also if I disconnect my EGR control cable when engine cold and not running will the valve be closed?

Thanks

The EGR will always partly stay open, unless it's blanked with special blanking plates. (Ebay).
Best way is to have the EGR deleted by a chiptuner, and have it blanked as well.