I was considering buying this to use on my 2006 multijet... any feedback on this product?

http://www.ebay.it/itm/1-LITRO-BARD...ESEL-PULITORE-PULIZIA-INIETTORI-/191010467330

I read around they sell them unsealed which I find annoying

The only thing that's worth adding to pump diesel is something that increases the Cetane rating and/or lowers the auto igntion point of the fuel.

2EHN (2-Ethyl-Hexyl Nitrate) is what the petrol companies use to improve Cetane, but it can be bought from various suppliers by the litre or more quite cheaply. (Trinity Chemicals- "Biotane", Ebay etc)
Just add it 1000:1 ratio to make your own Shell V Power on the cheap.

Some diesel additives will contain very small amounts of 2 EHN, but hardly enough to make a difference overall, basically they are a mix of a tiny amount of 2EHN, a perfume and a carrier (distilled oil).

A lot of research was done by a German manufacturer in regards to additives and the results are out on the net somewhere.

Seems a worthwhile addition is 2 storke oil, the stuff you mix into the petrol of scooters and lawn mowers.

It has a lower auto igntion point and seems to burn better when compressed (auto ignite) that it does when you set fire to it and it's auto ignition point is lower than pump diesel.
So it will ignite completely at a lower pressure in the cylinders than diesel, brings down the AI point of the diesel it's mixed with.

It also has amazing lubrication propierties as it's designed for very tiny amounts to lube bearings in fast running 2 stroke engines.

Adding 250ml to a tank of diesel really does make it a lot smoother.

I've used both in various diesels, my Jag X Type loves the 2 stroke oil and a splash of 2EHN, it ran almost as smooth as a pertol.

You'll find 2EHN is in a lot of Biodiesel production, both commercial and home brew to counter the lower calorific value of certain vegetable oils, so you may find it forsale there too.

http://www.veryone.com/veryone-2-ehn/veryone-how-it-works/
http://www.powerenhancer.co.uk/product.php/890/2-ehn-2ehn
http://www.oilem.com/tag/2ehn/
http://www.trinity-research.co.uk/index.php?cPath=21_25_26
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1L-2-EHN-...ultDomain_3&hash=item35e720a60f#ht_563wt_1141

http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76.../177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html

Thanks Goudrons, that is interesting indeed.

Can you pour this miscela in the tank at the station after fillup?
I suppose you have to buy the diesel first and properly mix it with 2EHN and 2 stroke oil at home :yuck:

This is all new to me. Perhaps there is the same issue with commercial diesel additives?

You can just add it to your tank after filling up.

Nice.
I can do it at every fillup? The engine will benefit?
My tank is 40 liters, that means (1000:1) 40ml 2EHN if I fill the tank right?
Plus 250ml of 2 stroke oil... is it OK 250ml for a 40 liters fill?

Any risk oil might deposit at the bottom or any such thing?

Thanks!

2EHN is in pump diesel anyway, it's made to disperse into the fuel, so adding it to the tank and filling up won't cause any issues.

Rising the cetane rate will increase the "bang" the fuel gives when it burns, giving more power for less fuel used.
You should see a very small increase in MPG as well.

As the Panda tank is small, it might be worth reducing the amount of 2 stroke oil, I based my old diesel on a 70 litre tank and added 250ml of 2 stroke every second tank.
Again it'll disperse in the fuel very easily.
Start off with around 200ml and reduce or increase it until you find the point it's effects aren't as pronouced, you should find a ratio that works quite easily.

The 2 stroke alone will reduce diesel "clatter" significantly after just a quarter of a tank has been through the engine.
It'll run noticably smoother, the results are quite amazing.

You can run the cheapest 2 stroke you can find unless a DPF is fitted, then it's worth considering a Low Ash 2 stroke.

In case anyone is reading, I have recently put 100ml to 50l of diesel in my 1.9 Mjet and it ran fine for 20 miles, two days of standing the car will not rev and the engine management light is on, it cuts off if I don’t have my foot on the accelerator but this does not even built the Revs up it’s like the car is physically won’t let it! I’m absolutely lost and I can’t move the thing off my drive!

My brother swears by white spirit in his diesel tank. Probably just a cup per tankful.

The old dirty diesel containing sulphides had a built in lubricant. Cleaning the fuel has removed that lubricity so adding some oil has to be a good idea. 2 stroke oil can only be a good thing for the injection pump. Vege oil also works just dont use too much. Any more than 1 litre per tank is not a good idea.

Agree completely with what's said above regarding adding 2-stroke.
I have done this for many years. I keep an old toilet bleach container in the boot, and add a 200ml squirt BEFORE every fill up (the container - ex Harpic - has a clear strip up its side for checking the level, and I've marked it off with a Sharpie). Adding before filling gives the best chance of complete mixing, and washes the 2-stroke out of the fill pipe and into the tank.

Not only does it smooth out the diesel pulses, but it adds lubricity, especially important for the life of the hp pump.

Regarding Bardahl additive - try Archoil instead.

MumbtieMk2 said:

In case anyone is reading, I have recently put 100ml to 50l of diesel in my 1.9 Mjet and it ran fine for 20 miles, two days of standing the car will not rev and the engine management light is on, it cuts off if I don’t have my foot on the accelerator but this does not even built the Revs up it’s like the car is physically won’t let it! I’m absolutely lost and I can’t move the thing off my drive!

Click to expand...

Does is crank over ok or is it slow to crank?
You need a good crank speed to create enough pressure in the fuel rail, without out enough pressure you get stumbling starts like this, as it's not running cleanly, fast enough, it can generate the rail pressure and on it goes.

Same goes for other low rail pressure faults too, like pump and/or fuel filter leaks, wonky injectors leaking off too much fuel also bugger the rail pressure.

Get the codes read, if the engine management light is on, they'll be a code stored.

Hi mate, It cranks over fine as it normally should.
But within a split second the revs die and it cuts off, Im suspecting that the 2ehn cetane booster has caused at-least one of those problems, im going to plug port reader in see what codes it shows but to be honest I think ive put too much in the tank?

MumbtieMk2 said:

Hi mate, It cranks over fine as it normally should.
But within a split second the revs die and it cuts off, Im suspecting that the 2ehn cetane booster has caused at-least one of those problems, im going to plug port reader in see what codes it shows but to be honest I think ive put too much in the tank?

Click to expand...

Where are you based.. may be some sensor that doesnt like the new FUEL..

possibly a knock sensor . Etc.


Plugging in software that can read just MIL codes may not give the full picture..

You want to see sensor values etc.

FYI.. there have been many diesel owners on here.. filling with petrol..and CAREFULLY running the tanks level of dilution down...

All without major issue.. so yours sounds a bit odd.

Charlie

Based in Stafford mate, It all sounds a bit odd to me, I was hoping to plug reader in and go from there and by there somehow get it into a garage depending on the £ or repair. I was thinking of taking all the 25+ liters out and running it dry? would you recommend this

Running dry will ruin your pump. Maybe the Bardahl has loosened up some crud that is now blocking the pump in the tank or the filter under the hood (bonnet?).
Or maybe it has cleaned the injectors and the ECU needs a reset to factory values (disconnect battery).

gr J

Sounds more like you need to get a good computer onto it and monitor the live data see where the issue is checking things like fuel pressure

Personally I doubt it a issues with the fuel diesels tend to be quite robust with fuel
Could also be things like crank/can sensor issues affecting the timing

Might just have blown a hose off the intercooler.

Diesels will run on almost anything including petrol. They wont like it but they will run.


I think dumping a tank full of fuel on a hunch (even a small Panda tank) is just pointless and expensive.


A copy of MultiECUScan and a Windows laptop will give you a few clues. The free version software should cover your needs. A £15 connector plug will connect the car to the PC.

DaveMcT said:

Diesels will run on almost anything including petrol. They wont like it but they will run.

Click to expand...

Not true for a modern commonrail with pressures as high as 2500 bar and a pump lubricated by nothing but the diesel.

I agree on the MES though.

gr J