A3jeroen said:

Not true for a modern commonrail with pressures as high as 2500 bar and a pump lubricated by nothing but the diesel.

I agree on the MES though.

gr J

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I'm not trying to suggest that incorrect fuels are a good idea, but a diesel engine will actually run on pretty much anything of reasonable viscosity. Resultant and potentially serious damage is a separate subject.

The OP's engine refuses to run at all suggesting something else is going on. The ECU codes need to be examined as a start point.

Liquids are not compressible so if they'll burn, the engine will run. Biodiesel for example is technically non flammable. Its flash point is well over 100C. But spray a fine mist and it burns very well indeed. Same with jet fuel. Both will work in a common rail diesel. Both are likely to cause long term damage though for different reasons.


Wikipedia

It (biodiesel) is slightly miscible with water, has a high boiling point and low vapor pressure. The flash point of biodiesel exceeds 130 °C (266 °F), significantly higher than that of petroleum diesel which may be as low as 52 °C (126 °F). Biodiesel has a density of ~0.88 g/cm³, higher than petrodiesel (~0.85 g/cm³).

Flash point of diesel or a substitute isn't important, this the auto ignition point (the point it ignites when compressed) that is.

The fuel isn't flashed/sparked to ignite, but injected into compressed air.

MumbtieMk2 said:

Based in Stafford mate, It all sounds a bit odd to me, I was hoping to plug reader in and go from there and by there somehow get it into a garage depending on the £ or repair. I was thinking of taking all the 25+ liters out and running it dry? would you recommend this

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Too far away from me

Have you cut battery power?. To attempt a reboot of the sensors.etc

You really want to get the diagnostics sorted.. but may as well chech basics 1st.


Like: Immobiliser function. Battery output. Crank speed

Charlie

See post 19. All you need is a windows laptop, cheap connector cable and the free version of multiECUScan. Read the codes and take it from there.


If (like me) you only have a Mac then you'll have to beg or borrow a cheap laptop.

MumbtieMk2 said:

Based in Stafford mate, It all sounds a bit odd to me, I was hoping to plug reader in and go from there and by there somehow get it into a garage depending on the £ or repair. I was thinking of taking all the 25+ liters out and running it dry? would you recommend this

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Update, Tank drained and fuel filter changed, still no luck, throttle body and egr cleaned ? apparently.. and nothing has changed, the garage are getting diesel doctor involved but they keep mentioning changing injectors ££££

Update, Tank drained and fuel filter changed, still no luck, throttle body and egr cleaned ? apparently.. and nothing has changed, the garage are getting diesel doctor involved but they keep mentioning changing injectors ££££

We did say it wouldn't be anything at all to do with the fuel could have very poor quality fuel and it would still run probably roughly butbit would run

What have the garage said so far they checked
Does it have good feul pressure. Imobliser disengaging and allowing fuel flow?
After that if there good would be checking fuel is reaching the injector's and being injected correctly

MumbtieMk2 said:

Update, Tank drained and fuel filter changed, still no luck, throttle body and egr cleaned ? apparently.. and nothing has changed, the garage are getting diesel doctor involved but they keep mentioning changing injectors ££££

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We said changing the fuel was a waste of money. Have you had the ECU codes fully examined?

DaveMcT said:

We said changing the fuel was a waste of money. Have you had the ECU codes fully examined?

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Yep! complete waste of time & money. Agree with Dave, get the codes read. A wee tip to see if fuel is getting into cylinders is to watch the exhaust while someone cranks the engine, you may see some misty fuel coming out the tailpipe, but not always due to the cat.

MumbtieMk2 said:

Update, Tank drained and fuel filter changed, still no luck, throttle body and egr cleaned ? apparently.. and nothing has changed, the garage are getting diesel doctor involved but they keep mentioning changing injectors ££££

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Go elsewhere. IT WONT BE THE INJECTORS and they have already wasted your tank full of fuel and all the associated costs. Go elsewhere.

They are individual items that are electronically controlled to squirt fuel from the pressurised fuel rail. You will never get all of them to fail all at once. One can go faulty and fail to spray correctly but that causes dirty exhaust and in severe cases can fill the sump with fuel. BUT the engine will still run on the remaining working injectors.

Your problem is failure to start so for some reason the ECU is not sending fuel to the injectors. You need to know what the ECU is doing. It could even be as simple as a failed crank position sensor (that's a wild guess not diagnosis by the way).

Or the pressure (or sensor) in the commonrail is too low. Could be leaky O-ring or bad sensor.
I agree with Dave. 4 defect injectors at once...

gr J

I agree with what others have said. The garage you are using appears to be incompetent based on what you have said.

First thing that needs to be done is the use of good diagnostic software with specific Fiat capability. Not just to read fault codes but to monitor real-time parameters like fuel pressure and injector opening. Multiecuscan is ideal and even if you bought a second hand laptop to run it on it would still be cost effective compared to what the garage is doing. Modern common rail injection systems are highly complex, the fault could be mechanical, sensor failure, electrical connection, fuse, ECU etc. It could also be an immobiliser issue. You can't reasonably diagnoise this by guessing what parts to change.


Robert G8RPI.

MumbtieMk2 said:

Update, Tank drained and fuel filter changed, still no luck, throttle body and egr cleaned ? apparently.. and nothing has changed, the garage are getting diesel doctor involved but they keep mentioning changing injectors ££££

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So. What rail pressures while cranking?

Old fuel.. VS new..

Thats the basics for combustion.

If the pressure isnt seen to be high enough by the ECU.. then injection doesnt happen.


No diesel : no ignition : no engine running.

Towstarting can help raise pressures via revs
VS the battery just cranking @ 800 rpm

Get it to run by one method..then work backwards to find the shortcomings.


ECU feedback is almost essention in your situation.


PS .. is this a 1.3 ? or a 2.0..??