Hi,

Hopefully I can find in here someone proficient in the matter. :worship:
I have a Panda 169 1.3 Multijet (year 2006, with 40.000 km).
I don't know if the radiator liquid has ever been changed.
It worries me.

I have three easy questions:

1)
i.imgur.com/zQqnloW.jpg
Does this colour look normal?

2)
i.imgur.com/b37H1AI.jpg
From which pipe should I let the liquid out? Pipe in small or big red circle?
The pipe in the small circle is the one coming from the radiator tank you can see in the 1st picture.

3)
The band around the pipe does not have a screw. How do I get it open?

Please help me keep this car in working order. :worship:

1) the colour looks totally fine.

2) take the one that is lowest, i´d say the small circle looks like a low point.

I used a pipe wrench and a screwdriver (bending with the screwdriver) to remove the band around the pipe. However they are tricky to reinstall. I bought a hose clamp, instead of trying to reinstall them.

Also, filter the anti-freeze from your radiator. Look for plastic. I´ve heard that the water-pump wheel can start to shatter. But mine looked just as new when i replaced it (8 years old, 8300km).

Hi bsod
Thanks for sharing your expertise

1)
Good to know

2)
Actually the pipe in the small circle is above the other (the shot is taken from under the car).
pipe in small circle goes from radiator tank to radiator
pipe in big circle goes from radiator to engine, I think?
Would you still recommend that one?

3)
I'll buy a hose clamp as you say and try your way tomorrow.

On the manual there is written 50% distilled water and 50% paraflu up.
I could only find demineralized water in the shop and I read around it's even better, so I think I'll use it.
As to paraflu up, I got the red one without realizing there were two different types, blue and red.
No idea what's the difference between them.


I am not sure what you mean when you said:
"Look for plastic. I´ve heard that the water-pump wheel can start to shatter."

andy1 said:

I am not sure what you mean when you said:
"Look for plastic. I´ve heard that the water-pump wheel can start to shatter."

Click to expand...

He means, when you drain the old coolant out of the car, check to see if it has any pieces of plastic in it (I don't know if they'd float or sink). If it does have pieces of plastic in it, that means the car's water pump (the pump which cycles the coolant around the cooling system) needs replacing. I wouldn't worry too much though, even if it does need replacing, it's not a horrendously expensive or time consuming job for a garage to do .

Matt100HP said:

He means, when you drain the old coolant out of the car, check to see if it has any pieces of plastic in it (I don't know if they'd float or sink). If it does have pieces of plastic in it, that means the car's water pump (the pump which cycles the coolant around the cooling system) needs replacing. I wouldn't worry too much though, even if it does need replacing, it's not a horrendously expensive or time consuming job for a garage to do .

Click to expand...

Thanks for clarifying that. I will check.
I am still not sure which pipe to open though to get the most out. Any advise on that?

Just do both

Unfortunately the hose clamps are stuck.
I can't get any of the two open. I tried with a screwdriver but it's no use. I can't stick it in.

In the meantime I have seen suspicious black dots at the bottom of the tank.

i dont know if this image helps, but this is how it looks like open. It´s a bit tricky to use the pliers and screwdriver simultaneously, if you are alone.

Dont worry about the black dots. All the rubber hoses are black. The wheel of the waterpump was grey (06 petrol panda).

Stick with red paraflu. I think that red or blue paraflue is depending on what metal the engine manufacturer uses. In other words, dont change paraflu colour...

Thanks bsod, I appreciate that.

I am starting to think I don't have to take off the hose clamps though.

Look at the metal part inside the yellow circle in this picture...
i.imgur.com/9ps4U7C.jpg

That looks like a mechanism to detach the hose from the radiator... there are two mechanisms, one on each side, but I don't know how they are supposed to work, perhaps pushing them together?

A picture of it on ebay
i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzU0WDY1MA==/z/QFIAAOxydlFS9bIw/$_12.JPG

Hell, I started this thinking it would be a really easy job such as changing oil.
Now I am reading around you also have to worry not to get air into the circuit?
Is it true and how on Earth am I supposed to do that LOL.

I know I will be in the minority but if I were you I would leave well alone the chances are the pump will have been changed and if not soon so the coolant will be replaced .. Far better replace the engine oil with fully synthetic to prolong the life of the engine/turbo/cam chain

andy1 said:

Thanks bsod, I appreciate that.

I am starting to think I don't have to take off the hose clamps though.

Look at the metal part inside the yellow circle in this picture...
i.imgur.com/9ps4U7C.jpg

That looks like a mechanism to detach the hose from the radiator... there are two mechanisms, one on each side, but I don't know how they are supposed to work, perhaps pushing them together?

A picture of it on ebay
i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MzU0WDY1MA==/z/QFIAAOxydlFS9bIw/$_12.JPG

Hell, I started this thinking it would be a really easy job such as changing oil.
Now I am reading around you also have to worry not to get air into the circuit?
Is it true and how on Earth am I supposed to do that LOL.

Click to expand...

Those look the same as my 1.2, they push inwards like buttons and then you pull and pull and pull..... wiggle etc. It's not easy but it will come off.

Don't worry about air. pour slowly and make use of the bleed valves, there's several good guides on here about flushing the coolant on pandas.

If i were you, mix your solution 50/50 before you put it in so you're not left guessing the remainder to get the ratio right.



Best of luck!

The person that owned my previous car didnt inform me that the ratio of coolant/water wasnt correct in the system. It resulted in an expensive workshop bill...

So if you dont change it, atleast try to check the quality of the fluid. And leave the waterpump alone, if you dont have any good reason to change it.

Was going by colour of header tank looks right dilution rate to me but by all means if In doubt change it

I tend to syphon out whats in the expansion tank and replace with fresh G30 up to the correct level every six months or so.

Sorry for not getting back.

1)
In the end I got rid of the old hose clamp (between radiator and engine) annoying it with a screwdriver.

2)
I didn't remove the hose but stuck a screwdriver in it instead and probably saved myself a fight to get it back.
Liquid started to come out of it - I left it like this until empty.

3)
I filled the tank with demineralised water, drove some distance to get into the circuit and emptied it.
I followed this process TWICE to clean it.

4)
I installed the new hose clamp and filled the tank with the right formula.
Can't remember what the formula is right now, best check your manual ALWAYS :worship: Probably 50/50


I think this is a good way of doing it and most importantly EASY!
You don't have to lift the car.

Hope this helps someone!

andy1 said:

Sorry for not getting back.

1)
In the end I got rid of the old hose clamp (between radiator and engine) annoying it with a screwdriver.

2)
I didn't remove the hose but stuck a screwdriver in it instead and probably saved myself a fight to get it back.
Liquid started to come out of it - I left it like this until empty.

3)
I filled the tank with demineralised water, drove some distance to get into the circuit and emptied it.
I followed this process TWICE to clean it.

4)
I installed the new hose clamp and filled the tank with the right formula.
Can't remember what the formula is right now, best check your manual ALWAYS :worship: Probably 50/50


I think this is a good way of doing it and most importantly EASY!
You don't have to lift the car.

Hope this helps someone!

Click to expand...

glad you got it done..,
BUT - what did you poke a screwdriver through..instead of removing the hose..??

I like to change antifreeze every 4 years using Halfords red 5 year anti-freeze. I hate those crazy clips. Just get a pack of jubilee clips from a one pound shop and replace them. I have to do my daughters Panda at Christmas as like you, I don't know how old it is. Putting fresh in also helps the anti-corrosion elements in the fluid.
I always undo the radiator bottom hose and drain it all out. Then disconnect the radiator top hose and hose out the radiator both ways (top down to bottom, and bottom up to top) to get any crud out. reconnect and fill up with water. Go for a run and the empty again. One more top up, another run, and drain down. Smear the inside of the rubber hose with a tad of Vaseline, and in 4 years time it will slip off nicely and not get bonded on.
Then fill up slowly with the anti-freeze mixture. Bleed, and go for a run. Then bleed again and top up. Watch the level for a few days as it can 'settle' as air is worked out. The fact you used demineralised water is even better.
Halfords are doing 5 litres of ready made 5 year red stuff for £20. I have used it before and it is very good. 5 litres is more than enough and a bit for top-ups.
See: http://www.halfords.com/motoring/en.../halfords-oat-ready-mixed-antifreeze-5-litres

they appear to have used demin to flush too..,

I believe the rad joints are bayonet connectors( most modern ones are..!!).. but like you I carefully removed the hose securing clip, - not wishing to stress a water tight radiator..!!

Charlie

Europarts are now ding 5 litres of Red, 5 year antifreeze, ready made up for £8. 34p. Amazing.
See:http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/c...-coolant/red-anti-freeze/?523770511&0&cc5_866