While checking brake shoes on my daughter's 2nd hand ' 53 plate panda 1.2 I found a "stray" brake part lying inside the brake hub. See attachment.
I think it is part of the self adjuster mechanism. I think it fits into a spring plate behind the hydraulic cylinder, but access is tricky to say the least. I can't get it firmly back in place. :bang:
Can anyone advise how to do it?
Is there an alterative to taking the whole wheel bearing off to get access?

On the other wheel the same part was completely missing and had been replaced with a tie wrap around the threaded section to prevent it retracting.
Thanks

YES - it is part of the self-adjuster,

you SHOULD be able to get it all free by removing the shoes,less bother than disturbing the hydraulics.. sounds as if you would do well to get 2 x new assemblies though..
look on ePER ( FF homepage banner) for parts fiches,

possibly stocked by major motorfactors..look on europarts..??

Charlie

Thanks varesecrazy, that was great advice. Job completed without any more sore forehead!! Thanks again.

I really hate Panda Adjusters :bang:

They never auto adjust for me and when this bit pings out I just know it is shoe off time.

Any one know where I can get some more for less than £80 for a set please?

the cog it ratchets in to is a bit softer than I expected I just need the cogs really but can't see part numbers on the FF eper

That bit has also 'pinged' out on me on the passenger side I'm having a NIGHTMARE getting to work .

Bit the bullet about 12 months ago and paid top doller for new adjusters as the ends were bent and ratchet action was knackered.

did have leaking rear cylinders so had to replace them plus shoes...

Went the whole hog and cables and drums at the same time, and a fitting kit











Still can't get it to lock up - maybe I've got the cable too tight

I found I couldn't get the 4 new press fiit springs on and had to use the old ones .I reckon I've wasted money getting drums .I hope I haven't damaged the new adjuster on passenger side .I THINK I hear a 'clunky' click on drivers SIDE when I have handbrake on tightly and jerk car forwards or backwards but couldn't be sure . Not a sound from passenger side ...
Surely the lack of motion in second shoe ( maybe outlined on other recent post ) when pulling handbrake suggests something else wrong ?
This issue could well spell the end of my Panda ownership if fails NCT .

Don't worry about hearing adjuster clicks - jack up the rear and see if the wheels are binding with handbrake off

move handbrake up 1 click (reach over dont get in) an see if they are starting to bind

repeat 1 click at a time - should bind about the same number of clicks up.

by the time your handbrake is at the top you should not be able to turn either wheel by hand at all (don't pull the car off the jacks trying).

If one wheel can be turned by hand well after the other is locked you have a problem.

think I wound mine out by hand until the new drum just fit over the shoes.

new fitting kit is not easy to fit as the pins don't have the long lead.

Replaced the drums as I list a shoe lining a couple of years before and tried to make do with a scored drum :yuck:

Louie Bee said:

If one wheel can be turned by hand well after the other is locked you have a problem.

Click to expand...

I have a problem ...!:-(

ytareh said:

I have a problem ...!:-(

Click to expand...

Just 1 problem if 1 wheel is good its not so bad

If you aint already you'll need to get the bit that pinged out back on or it wont hold the adjuster out - thats the ratchet bit you can hear the splined wheel click one way as the adjuster moves out. Before I replaced the adjusters think I may have done it without removing the shoe but almost lost it.

Also is the cable too tight? I think if it's holding the shoe away from the rest point of the adjuster it cant click round more and adjust.

here you go this is what they do (my vid of panda multijet adjusters) - you'll hear the click as it's presses in - if the cable is too tight it wont work as they won't get pressed in enough to click round and adjust out (the drums will be held apart too much to make it click)...

[ame]https://youtu.be/lpDkQl4CHLo[/ame]

Got sorted I think ( retest early tommorow morning , fingers crossed) Cable was the main issue ...

Thread resurrection time! Only because the same piece as in the OP's picture just fell out of one of my drums! And I didn't take any pictures...

With typically brilliant timing, on the way to my MoT last year, I noticed my right rear brake squeaking on every wheel revolution. It passed with one advisory for slight binding on that brake.

I took the rusty lip off the inside of both drums with a wire brush on an angle grinder. The right rear drum was hard to get off because of this lip, so I was hoping it was the rusty drum that had caused the binding.

Recently it started squeaking again, on every revolution. The drum was also noticeably warmer (not hot) to the touch than the other side after a drive.

I found a few old threads suggesting a sticky adjuster so figured I'd try freeing it up.

As soon as I started poking around, I noticed the arm at the back of the adjuster (numbered 5 in diagram) was loose and flapping about.

Trying to disconnect the adjuster spring from the shoe, a small piece fell out of the drum! This turned out to be the pawl (9) for the ratchet wheel (3).

So, springs off, shoes out, brake cleaner, copaslip, pawl re-attached (fiddly), adjuster wound back and all back together again

Seems fine now, but I'm thinking it might be time to overhaul the rear brakes before too long. Those adjusters are strangely expensive...

...but then everything else is amazingly cheap!

I find them fairly reliable even on high mileage cars.

Far more so than many other cars I have owned

Funnily enough i have recently changed the wheel cylinders. Because i needed the shoes as well i bought the full kit.

Wheel cylinders, springs, adjusters and shoes were around £50 and waited for a coupon to pop up for an extra 20% off. Comes ready assembled. i did take the hub off. But it is so much easier and really isn't worth the hassle of cleaning the old parts up. Plus the old springs are often damaged or stretched by a previous ham fisted mechanic

One of these makes life much easier
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Spring-Hook-Puller-Brake-Installation-Remover-Shoe-Drum-Headlights-Car-Van-Bike/143681103525?hash=item21740fa6a5:g:XlAAAOSwlx9fNCOX

You can easily test hand brake balance by pulling the brake on in stages and reversing. The side that's on hardest will dig in or even skid.
Three M6 nuts/bolts will lift up the floor console. The hand brake cable balance bar should be at right angles. the long cable side that will be the one with stuck brake wear adjusters.

koalar said:

Wheel cylinders, springs, adjusters and shoes were around £50 and waited for a coupon to pop up for an extra 20% off. Comes ready assembled.

Click to expand...

Sounds like a bargain, and easier to boot! Where was that? The adjusters alone are £73 at present on S4P... I've seen there are cheaper on eBay but have read indifferent reviews... Not sure I'd want to take a chance on the brakes... Well, no, I am sure, and I wouldn't

DaveMcT said:

The hand brake cable balance bar should be at right angles. the long cable side that will be the one with stuck brake wear adjusters.

Click to expand...

Hmm, yeah the right side cable is still being pulled slightly further than the left on my car, even though it's the right side adjuster I cleaned and reset.

I was wondering whether this would even out, if the adjuster needs time to work itself back out? I haven't done much braking since, only a short test run to make sure brakes felt fine.

I got them from euro car part

under my Reg it only shows the more expensive Pagid kit

But Google randomly found them even when their own search engine couldn't

probably stock they had left over from an old suppler.

found that quite a lot with ECP that only the most expensive option is listed via reg

However i can't see them still available but a Google search still picks up full sets for just over and under £50

About the best I can find at the moment for the full set (wheel cylinders & shoes assembled with adjusters) is Febi 38746 for under £68 delivered:
JD Motorsports
Simply Car Parts / www.simplycarparts.co.uk/products/38746

They both seem to be genuine UK businesses with their own websites, so I'd trust them, and Febi are part of Bilstein, so I'd imagine good quality.

rmjbn1 said:

About the best I can find at the moment for the full set (wheel cylinders & shoes assembled with adjusters) is Febi 38746 for under £68 delivered:
JD Motorsports
Simply Car Parts / www.simplycarparts.co.uk/products/38746

They both seem to be genuine UK businesses with their own websites, so I'd trust them, and Febi are part of Bilstein, so I'd imagine good quality.

Click to expand...

I am not a fan of Euro Car Parts but they have 37% off at the moment

Subtotal:£87.99
Discount (37% Off Car Parts Online - Ends Sunday!):- £30.80
Total (inc VAT):£57.19

only works online but you can choose click and collect.


I normally take the old part with me and check before I leave the shop. I don't have a High success rate in the Crewe branch. Wrong part picked, wrong part in box and cheap brand substituted for premium in the past

koalar said:

I am not a fan of Euro Car Parts but they have 37% off at the moment

Subtotal:£87.99
Discount (37% Off Car Parts Online - Ends Sunday!):- £30.80
Total (inc VAT):£57.19

only works online but you can choose click and collect.


I normally take the old part with me and check before I leave the shop. I don't have a High success rate in the Crewe branch. Wrong part picked, wrong part in box and cheap brand substituted for premium in the past

Click to expand...

That's a common issues with ecp
Or euro wrong parts as they are often called