Technical 1.3 multijet engine light
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Technical 1.3 multijet engine light
check the battery / recharge,
check obvious things like oil / water levels,
try a SEARCH for MAF fault,
then maybe buy a CODE reader , to check the stored Codes when the light comes on ,
only @ £30 Euro,
Charlie
check obvious things like oil / water levels,
try a SEARCH for MAF fault,
then maybe buy a CODE reader , to check the stored Codes when the light comes on ,
only @ £30 Euro,
Charlie
There are a couple of common faults. It's possible that the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve has failed, or stuck. Other possibilities are the air mass flow controller. Depending on your driving style it's possible that you won't notice any difference in performance, especially if you change up before 3000rpm and don't use a heavy foot whilst accelerating.
Good luck.
Good luck.
first of all, THANKS
2) I bought a code reader. The problem is i have no idea where to connect it, i looked under the stearing wheel but couldn't find it. Where is it hidden?
3) It has had some hard starts this last month and it sometimes smoke a bit
4) My driving style is defined as boring. I pendle 130 km a day most of it at about a steady 90-100km/h on freeway, with a diesel usage at about 4.2 pr. 100km
Hope it helps... if anybody can answer number 2, i guess i'm good.
2) I bought a code reader. The problem is i have no idea where to connect it, i looked under the stearing wheel but couldn't find it. Where is it hidden?
3) It has had some hard starts this last month and it sometimes smoke a bit
4) My driving style is defined as boring. I pendle 130 km a day most of it at about a steady 90-100km/h on freeway, with a diesel usage at about 4.2 pr. 100km
Hope it helps... if anybody can answer number 2, i guess i'm good.
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The diagnostic port is located behind lower dash panel on the right of steering wheel, (guess that might be left on LHD cars) you will have to undo the 2 screws.
Then once its plugged in turn ignition on and scan for codes.
Turn ignition off after scanning the codes before removing from diagnostic port to prevent any problems.
There are a few issues with the Multijet.
As stated, EGR valve flow problems (could explain no:3), turbo actuator choking up and seizing.
And with most common rail diesels, injector woes!
Post any codes you scan, I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction.
Then once its plugged in turn ignition on and scan for codes.
Turn ignition off after scanning the codes before removing from diagnostic port to prevent any problems.
There are a few issues with the Multijet.
As stated, EGR valve flow problems (could explain no:3), turbo actuator choking up and seizing.
And with most common rail diesels, injector woes!
Post any codes you scan, I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction.
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The car should run quite happily with the EGR fault. My EGR failed 30,000 miles ago and I've not noticed any loss in performance, economy etc. The car has even been through two MOT emissions checks okay with the faulty EGR valve.
I will replace it one day but on the Panda 4x4 it's in a very inaccessible place tucked down behind the engine. I assume it's the same for a standard m-jet.
I will replace it one day but on the Panda 4x4 it's in a very inaccessible place tucked down behind the engine. I assume it's the same for a standard m-jet.
have had same code when checked and cleaned the mass air pressure sensor which is located on inlet manifold (think it was a t20 torx screw holding it in). You'll probably find it sooted up and restricting air pressure reading.have had no engine light on since.hope this helps all fellow mjet owners.
Z11
New member
I also had the Engine Light on my Multijet for about 10,000 miles.
I checked it straight away with the OBD tester and it was the EGR valve - Insuficient air flow.
Spoke to Fiat dealer and they said the EGR Valve needs to be replaced straight away for some staggering amount of cash. I think they quoted about £400.
Spoke to an independent Fiat specialist and two local garages - all three said the same thing;
If it fails the MOT emmissions, then the EGR valve has to either be replaced or cleaned.
Anyway it passed the MOT no problem, but since this I have taken if off myself (as the Engine light was just too bright) and cleaned it in parafin. So far, after 10,000 further miles it's still working fine.
This has been my personal experience with the EGR valve -and it hasnt cost penny to fix, just a days tinkering and getting filthy with parafin and carbon / soot misture.
I checked it straight away with the OBD tester and it was the EGR valve - Insuficient air flow.
Spoke to Fiat dealer and they said the EGR Valve needs to be replaced straight away for some staggering amount of cash. I think they quoted about £400.
Spoke to an independent Fiat specialist and two local garages - all three said the same thing;
If it fails the MOT emmissions, then the EGR valve has to either be replaced or cleaned.
Anyway it passed the MOT no problem, but since this I have taken if off myself (as the Engine light was just too bright) and cleaned it in parafin. So far, after 10,000 further miles it's still working fine.
This has been my personal experience with the EGR valve -and it hasnt cost penny to fix, just a days tinkering and getting filthy with parafin and carbon / soot misture.
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EGR's are a bane of the diesel owners life these days.
Modern diesels and the emissions legislations they are built too require the engine to "choke" on exhaust gases in the event it runs lean (and hot so it produces more Nitrogen Oxide) like the over run (fuel virtually shuts off and combustion temps rise) or steady light throttle.
The last lot of "interfering" made it a requirement the car's ECU report's emission faults, so they suck a bloody sensor in the things! No more blanking or removing.
What the next legislation is going to be isn't quite clear to us customers yet, but I had heard Mercedes are "touching cloth" over it and considering pulling some of their bigger diesel engines as they're struggling.
Trying not to be bitter (hard for me, I have 3 diesels) the actual reasons behind them aren't total bull, but the benefits aren't as great as is made out, fuel ecomony actually reduces because of them, around 5%.
So we all burn more diesel and produce more emissions because of them!
After messing around with my fair share of them when they've caused issues, there's one, reasonably simple way to extend their life to a more acceptable life.
It's already been referred to by Z11.
This carbon/soot mixture is soot from the exhaust, but it's mixed with oil.
It gets the oil as it's been plumbed in to the air intake from the crankcase breather vent or CCV (yes another emissions legislation)
The hot oily vapour and soot meet at the EGR and decide to take on a new form, nasty gunk that clogs the valve up and inlet manifold/ports to the cylinders.
This is why they all start to fail around the same time as it takes a while for the intake/intercooler to build up some oil from the breather.
I've ran a diesel with a catch tank in between the engine and air intake for two years now and covered 35k.
It's still venting to the air intake and not just out to atmoshere, it just plumbs in, takes the vapour low, through the tank then back up and into the intake as normal.
It's baffled rather than a cheap, ebay can that's empty, so it traps more of the oil and it's designed for diesels with the correct size inlet and exit ports.
It's totally stopped the gunk and I've had no EGR trouble at all.
Soot still builds up slightly, but it's drier and flakes off the valve easily, I've also managed to reduce the size of the exhaust port into the EGR (plate with a hole in it) and this has virtually stopped the soot as well.
It's a common kit for VW TDi's (might be a little large for the Panda bay though) as they can suffer quite badly from oil blowby, but there are tank/filters available from the likes of Parker/Racor, Mann etc.
http://www.allardaluminiumproducts....lf-seat-skoda-audi-tdi-vag-group-engines.html
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...&vgnextdiv=687630&productcategory=productline
Ok, rant over!
Modern diesels and the emissions legislations they are built too require the engine to "choke" on exhaust gases in the event it runs lean (and hot so it produces more Nitrogen Oxide) like the over run (fuel virtually shuts off and combustion temps rise) or steady light throttle.
The last lot of "interfering" made it a requirement the car's ECU report's emission faults, so they suck a bloody sensor in the things! No more blanking or removing.
What the next legislation is going to be isn't quite clear to us customers yet, but I had heard Mercedes are "touching cloth" over it and considering pulling some of their bigger diesel engines as they're struggling.
Trying not to be bitter (hard for me, I have 3 diesels) the actual reasons behind them aren't total bull, but the benefits aren't as great as is made out, fuel ecomony actually reduces because of them, around 5%.
So we all burn more diesel and produce more emissions because of them!
After messing around with my fair share of them when they've caused issues, there's one, reasonably simple way to extend their life to a more acceptable life.
It's already been referred to by Z11.
This carbon/soot mixture is soot from the exhaust, but it's mixed with oil.
It gets the oil as it's been plumbed in to the air intake from the crankcase breather vent or CCV (yes another emissions legislation)
The hot oily vapour and soot meet at the EGR and decide to take on a new form, nasty gunk that clogs the valve up and inlet manifold/ports to the cylinders.
This is why they all start to fail around the same time as it takes a while for the intake/intercooler to build up some oil from the breather.
I've ran a diesel with a catch tank in between the engine and air intake for two years now and covered 35k.
It's still venting to the air intake and not just out to atmoshere, it just plumbs in, takes the vapour low, through the tank then back up and into the intake as normal.
It's baffled rather than a cheap, ebay can that's empty, so it traps more of the oil and it's designed for diesels with the correct size inlet and exit ports.
It's totally stopped the gunk and I've had no EGR trouble at all.
Soot still builds up slightly, but it's drier and flakes off the valve easily, I've also managed to reduce the size of the exhaust port into the EGR (plate with a hole in it) and this has virtually stopped the soot as well.
It's a common kit for VW TDi's (might be a little large for the Panda bay though) as they can suffer quite badly from oil blowby, but there are tank/filters available from the likes of Parker/Racor, Mann etc.
http://www.allardaluminiumproducts....lf-seat-skoda-audi-tdi-vag-group-engines.html
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...&vgnextdiv=687630&productcategory=productline
Ok, rant over!
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Have had this on my own m jet and can give you the answer is the map sensor is clogged up as it was on mine and after cleaning it no more eml light on! Even has egr written on top of sensor. Clear fault code after cleaning sensor and should b good to go.sensors located on inlet manifold and held on with a t20 torx screw. You will have to remove air filter housing to get to it!
