General EGR valve blanking plate

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General EGR valve blanking plate

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Sep 28, 2011
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Just a thought for the future , has anybody on here blanked the egr valve off on a Panda multijet, and if you have how did it run and what problems showed up concerning running and getting through mot etc....
 
They are not as easy to get away with blanking these days.

Modern EGR's have position sensors that require a certain amount of exhaust flow to work, blanking them will light the EML, something that the MOT will test for.
Sometimes you can get away with restricting the exhaust gases and most of the soot by drilling a hole in the blank (just keep getting bigger until the EML doesn't light any more)

Now comes the question regarding is it safe or wise?

The idea behind the EGR is to reduce the engines production of nitrogen oxide.
This gas gets produced when the combustion temps rise, say on the over run or light cruise or any other time the fuel/air mixture leans out.
(lean engine equals hot engine and at 2500 degrees NOx production is prolific)
Allowing exhaust gases in there at this time, cools combustion as there's little air in the exhaust to burn, hence it's use.

Modern CR diesels will shut off fueling completely if you take your foot off the pedal above 1500rpm or so, this tends to lead to longer periods of lean running than an older, indirect/pump timed diesel engine, so the combustion temps will no doubt climb and lead to possible heat problems within the engine and exhaust gases escaping through the turbo.

There's always the "green" view to consider as well, Nitrogen Oxide isn't the most pleasant of gases.
 
Hi all , egr valves can be very trouble sum , and blanking it off would be more trouble than good .
 
Thanks for all the replies, I was just curious because it seemed that people who have done it on other makes of car all feel that the car runs better and more economically with the egr valve blanked off.
 
I have messed around and tried blanking the EGR on my Jag diesel, but it's an older style, vacuum operated valve, so no position sensor.
Some later Jag D's had a position sensor, that why I know the hole in the blank works to fool the sensor.

Blanking is only worth it as a cover up/test for a knackered valve, it's it's stuck open it will upset the fuel/air mix when it's not meant too, causing a sooty black exhaust, lumpy running and hesitation, they can often failure to start as it's trying to burn exhaust and as we know, there's little oxygen in that.

Most think the reason they fail is because they block/gum up.
Oil vapour from the crankcase vent is plumped into the air intake at some point, usually just before the turbo and it gets blown/sucked along the air intake/intercooler where it meets the hot exhaust gases which are full of soot.
Mix the two together and you get the most disgusting gunk that will gum up anything it touches.
So to save the valve, you could try removing the oil vapour, say run the crankcase vent to air (not a good idea, you dumping oil on the road) or run the vent through a baffled catch tank like this and back into the air intake.
ccv1.jpg

With any car over about 50k, it probably worth cleaning out the valve and intercooler anyway, the gunk can restrict the air through the valve and the oil bungs up the passages in the I/C reducing it's effectiveness.

Mpg and power improvements will be hard to notice with a blank though, a good EGR system will only be 2 or 3% less fuel efficient because of it.
 
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