The fault is back again, before I get to it, a gripe. This is the second time I've written this and NO I'm not going to look at the threads above because if I do it will wipe out all the effort and thought put into this composition.
We have an intermittent fault, the starter does not turn over sometimes. If it does turn over the car will start. The problem might last for hours and several attempts, but so far it has always cleared. Today that was only after the Green Flag mechanic had thrown in the towel and the car had been returned on the back of a truck. After we had pushed it to the curb I suggested the boss try a restart, and it did. Then it wouldn't. Then it did. So it was put on the drive. Then it wouldn't. After tea and a rethink, it did. Now it won't and we have left it for tomorrow.
A relay or solenoid is always heard when the key is turned to start. I suspect it is a solenoid because it is quite loud.
Any hints or tips?

If you mean that it intermittently fails to turn over, but you get a slight whine, this happened to my MJ. 3 times in one day, it 'changed it's mind.'

I changed the starter motor before it failed completely. Hasn't done it again since (May this year).

Check the main power lead is securely fastened at both ends. If it is and I would expect any competent call-out mechanic to have checked it first then it'll almost certainly be the contacts within the starter solenoid. If you disassemble the unit they will often clean up. Sometimes they will have eroded away though. My last car (a Rover) had a rebuild kit available for a tenner or so so check to see if one is available for yours. Failing wanting to strip the unit you'll need to change it. They're about £80 on ebay, possibly cheaper elsewhere. IIRC access is pretty dire as per most jobs on these. It's visible from under the car at the rear of the engine.

It's the type of fault that will get worse with time until it fails totally.

Hi

I have a 2009 multijet and the starter motor and the ignition switch failed at the same time,

https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/284051-multijet-starter-ignition-switch-burnout.html

The point I was making is that the original ignition switch was a riveted together item that rattled, but the new switch( £47 + vat from Fiat ) was a one piece moulded item so maybe they have had problems with the original switches.

hope you get sorted soon

Hi.

Sorry to hijack the thread. my car (1.3mj) has started to do similar things recently. sometimes when you turn the key, the glow plug light goes out as normal but when you turn the key to start there is nothing! if you then do it a few times it works eventually. when it does start it starts first time...

My question is... for those that have changed the ignition switch, is this seperate from the ignition barrel where you put your key?

Thanks :worship:

Thanks for all the feedback. There's no whine when the starter should be running and no lights dim so I don't think current is getting to the starter.

I'ts too late and too wet to tackle tonight but I found a similar problem looking through the Idea part of the forum and that jogged my memory.
Apparently locking the car when you are inside using the remote locking on the key while it's in the ignition and then unlocking using the same 'frees' the immobiser and allows the car to start. There is some debate about how long to wait after following the procedure.

The Boss always carries the spare 'cos she's afraid she will unlock the car inadvertently. Today, when she phoned, I suggested she should lock and unlock the doors using the door lock, but this didn't have the desired effect. Perhaps tomorrow we will have more success.

If anyone else is having these probems they could also try.

MoltoMeglioMultijet said:

Hi.

Sorry to hijack the thread. my car (1.3mj) has started to do similar things recently. sometimes when you turn the key, the glow plug light goes out as normal but when you turn the key to start there is nothing! if you then do it a few times it works eventually. when it does start it starts first time...

My question is... for those that have changed the ignition switch, is this seperate from the ignition barrel where you put your key?

Thanks :worship:

Click to expand...

The ignition switch is one moulded unit with the key barrel in one end.

When you replace the ignition switch you remove the key barrel from your old switch and fit it into your new switch, it only takes a couple of seconds

hope that's answered your question.

Given that the solenoid is throwing I don't see how it can be the ignition switch.

Ready for an update? More shopping to do and the Boss wanted me to be there.
So using the remote key I opened the doors and tried to start. No go, no clicks, no noise at all.
So I removed the key from the ignition and used it to lock the doors from the inside. Waited a few seconds and tried again.
No hesitation, no problem and no stopping the engine until all the shopping was safely home again.
I'll let the engine get cold and try again later. Maybe this idea from the Idea threads is the answer.
I see mention of a lock symbol on the dash to indicate that the immobiliser is active, I don't have one that I can locate, maybe this applies to a different model or year.
Also the Idea apparently has an alarm, I've never heard of one on a Panda (who would wan't to steal one anyway). So is the Panda immobiliser more passive with no anti theft deterant other than inhibiting engine start and no intruder alert?

Update

The car started this afternoon after I locked and unlocked the doors from inside using the remote key. It didn't start prior to going thru' this routine.
We're taking our hound to the vets for his MOT tomorrow so I'll get to try once again.
I'm keeping an open mind about the starter because the solenoid was heard on the failed attempt.
Has anyone else who has experienced similar difficulties tried this method?

The immobiliser can only immobilise the solenoid (ie prevent the solenoid from throwing in the first place). Once the solenoid throws there is nothing that can prevent main power from being drawn by the starter other than bad contacts at the business end of the solenoid or worn contacts within the starter itself. The solenoid hits two contacts creating a direct circuit from battery through the starter and back to ground. If I'm wrong I'd love to hear how an immobiliser can work on the main power side. If the solenoid is throwing I think any other procedure that get's it going is coincidence. I'd only suspect an immobiliser issue on a solenoid that doesn't throw.