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Technical Multijet Engine Managment Light

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Technical Multijet Engine Managment Light

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buttonsandzips

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On my way home tonight in my 55 multijet Panda the dreaded engine managment light came on! I was pulling away quite hard from traffic lights onto a dual carriageway and when I hit about 3500rpm in 3rd the power cut for a second and the light came on. Since then it is driving fine with no noticable difference but the light is staying on. I don't normally rev it that hard so quite annoying!

I guess I had better take it in for diagnostics but does it sound bad?

Thanks
 
I've a 55 reg mulitjet too, with 120k on it. I bought one of those cheap code readers that revealed my fault as "EGR flow inadequate." The same fault was also 'pending.'

Nevertheless, it's running fine and returning over 60mpg. I reset the light and it came on again after only 30 miles.

In the long term, I plan to to remove and clean out the EGR but it's a big job and can wait a while. I'm not sure but I think a serious fault produces a flashing MIL, not just a steady one.
 
It has gone out now after a few journeys! Does it make sense to give it a blast now and again to clear it out? I know people used to say that about diesels a few years back...?
 
buttonsandzips said:
It has gone out now after a few journeys! Does it make sense to give it a blast now and again to clear it out? I know people used to say that about diesels a few years back...?
Click to expand...

That still holds true. The EGR valve is a mechanical component which can get clogged with soot.

In your case, a good couple of blasts with plenty of throttle massaged the valve enough that it unclogged itself. In severe cases, disassembly and thorough cleaning or even complete replacement is required.
 
Its been a while since i visited and now i found a problem on my old car! I hope its not too serious, more than likely egr as its had a fairly easy life althoughit did have regular longer runs which probably kept it clear for us.

If you do boot it after a steady week have a look it the rear view mirror you will be able to see the soot being thrown out.
 
Had a couple of EGR problems with mine even doing a lot of fast mway work runs it clogs up tried cataclean fuel treatment which fixed the problem temporarily. Had first replaced under warranty second after contacting Fiat customer services they paid for the part & I the labour as its not easily accessed this was a coupe of hours as various pipework attaching needs cleaning too. Currently I am using fuel system cleaner a couple of times a year to ward off the next EGR problem. Basically EGRs are a pain and should have been designed as a service item.
 
Had exact same problems, boost pressure fault found by local gagrge. I changed the MAP sensor - no change. it was the turbo pressure valve linkage sticking, cleaned and checked when having the clutch done and totally fault free. It happened when I lent my car to sister in law who sat in traffic every morning from Eastleigh to Southampton and back again in the rush hour so no real turbo use.
 
I bought a lead from ebay and checked the error codes this weekend, I am getting...

P0238 - Air supply circuit anomaly
P0106 - Atmospheric/turbo pressures feasibility

Anyone in the know have an idea of what the combination of these two could mean...?

Thanks
 
Finally going to try and get this sorted this week. Afterwards is it advisable to gun the engine now and again to try and keep linkage free? What is safe to do? Should I thrash it down the motorway in 3rd for a mile or so or just drive it hard now and again?
 
From the two errors you posted in October, I'd say it's a MAP sensor gone out of calibration, and no amount of thrashing will fix that, only a new sensor. If you can read the live data, you'll be able to confirm easily (MAP will be reading significantly higher/lower than atmospheric with the engine not running).
 
D4nny8oy said:
From the two errors you posted in October, I'd say it's a MAP sensor gone out of calibration, and no amount of thrashing will fix that, only a new sensor. If you can read the live data, you'll be able to confirm easily (MAP will be reading significantly higher/lower than atmospheric with the engine not running).
Click to expand...

Super. Will give that a go, thank you. Is it something I can replace myself and if not what sort of price should I be paying at an independent garage?

I guess having seen all the stuff about waste gates that I should still give the Panda a bit of a thrash here and there? I normally try to maximise MPG so it doesn't get much revs.
 
Only 1 torx screw holds it in, once you've removed the airbox, but I'd want to check the live data before replacing it to be 100% (although they are common for it). Should easily be acheivable within the hour's diagnostic time.

If the wastegate is sticking, it'll either be stuck closed (turbo overboosts and ECU switches to limp mode and reduces power), stuck part open (turbo takes 500-1000 rpm longer to spool), or stuck fully open (no power whatsoever). Either way, thrashing it won't free it off. The best way is plenty of WD40 and manually pumping the wastegate actuator with a Mityvac or footpump while gently levering with a screwdriver.
 
OK so took some readings tonight...I think these are the two variables I should be looking at...

Engine not running

Baro pressure : 985 mBar
Boost pressure : 1408 mBar

Engine idling :

Baro pressure : 985
Boost pressure : 1395

These numbers of any use in narrowing down the problem? The P0106 error will not clear as it is always present.

Thanks again
 
Last edited:
With the engine not running, the boost pressure should and must read the same as the atmospheric pressure sensor, give or take a few mbar (atmospheric pressure will always be around 1000mbar).

In your case, the boost sensor is way out of calibration and telling the ECU that your turbo is producing approx 0.5bar of boost with the engine off and at idle, which is clearly incorrect! You'll probably find at full throttle/boost the sensor max's out at 2,400mbar and the ECU switches to limp mode. Normal max is around 2000mbar.

Change the sensor. (y)
 
D4nny8oy said:
With the engine not running, the boost pressure should and must read the same as the atmospheric pressure sensor, give or take a few mbar (atmospheric pressure will always be around 1000mbar).

In your case, the boost sensor is way out of calibration and telling the ECU that your turbo is producing approx 0.5bar of boost with the engine off and at idle, which is clearly incorrect! You'll probably find at full throttle/boost the sensor max's out at 2,400mbar and the ECU switches to limp mode. Normal max is around 2000mbar.

Change the sensor. (y)
Click to expand...

Superb! Thanks. Will order one and get it fitted in next couple of weeks and report back.
 
buttonsandzips said:
Superb! Thanks. Will order one and get it fitted in next couple of weeks and report back.
Click to expand...

Big thanks to those contributing to this thread. Did a service today and also changed the map. A few drives later and the eml has gone out and the car drive like new! Great result, the map sensor was only thirty quid and very easy to change.
 
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