Technical Loose plastic thing full of water

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Technical Loose plastic thing full of water

if you squeeze the tube (a bit like milking a goat, if ever you've tried that!) you can usually squeeze out the mush and they will then work as drains again. Best to check them now and again and pull out any leaves that get in there when they are still leaf-like and before they rot :)

Pete

Had a 'footwell full of water' after the rain in the south east yesterday. Cold water poured onto my feet as I drove up a hill. Its surprising how much water that area will hold, going to milk the goat in the morning. (y)
 
The little rubber teats are drains to avoid the heater sucking in engine fumes.

Those who don't like cleaning them could replace with neoprene hoses but they are just as likely to clog up with leaves etc.

If its dirty clean it out. If they keep blocking up push some candle wick string through the rubber flaps. That will allow water to drip out even if the rubber is stuck together.
 
Just found this old thread after I heard water sloshing around in my 54 plate 1.2 Dynamic last night, and yes the rubber drains on mine were solid with sludge.

Trying to clean them, I pushed them out. I'm tempted to leave them off. Should I put them back after cleaning, if, as DaveMcT says, they prevent fumes getting to the heater?
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9k=
 

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Get some oil lamp wick. It's a braided cotton strip about 1cm wide. Knot it and poke the free end through the duckbill/goat's teat. That will drip water through the slit even when its full of leaves.
 
The air box under the scuttle in the Panda is notorious for producing high grade compost - leaves get in, they form compost with the warmth and the water, and then they block the "duck bill" vents. Once the vents are clogged water starts getting into the passenger compartment.

It is quite difficult to clean out the scuttle area because of very restricted access. The "ducks bill" can be wiggled out, cleaned and replaced, but removing the accumulated compost is difficult.

I found the best way to clean the scuttle area was a very flexible flat hose attachment for the vacuum cleaner. It can squeeze into the scuttle and works great. I got mine from Lidl, but they are only in stock occassionaly. Similar attachments are advertised on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vacuum-Cleaner-Extra-Long-Flexible-Crevice-Tool-For-Numatic-Henry-Hetty-Hoover/282150287368?hash=item41b177b808:g:Br8AAOSwgZ1XwAAm

It will fit the hose of most standard vacuum cleaners
 
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The air box under the scuttle in the Panda is notorious for producing high grade compost - leaves get in, they form compost with the warmth and the water, and then they block the "duck bill" vents. Once the vents are clogged water starts getting into the passenger compartment.

It is quite difficult to clean out the scuttle area because of very restricted access. The "ducks bill" can be wiggled out, cleaned and replaced, but removing the accumulated compost is difficult.

I found the best way to clean the scuttle area was a very flexible flat hose attachment for the vacuum cleaner. It can squeeze into the scuttle and works great. I got mine from Lidl, but they are only in stock occassionaly. Similar attachments are advertised on ebay

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vacuum-Cleaner-Extra-Long-Flexible-Crevice-Tool-For-Numatic-Henry-Hetty-Hoover/282150287368?hash=item41b177b808:g:Br8AAOSwgZ1XwAAm

It will fit the hose of most standard vacuum cleaners

I have one of those.. but a basic regime has meant I have NEVER had scuttle issues

How difficult is it to squeeze the edges of the duck bills every 3 months..?

Ok.. thats approaching 100 squeezes from me to my panda.. but it deserves it.. :)
 
This post contains affiliate links which may earn a commission at no additional cost to you.
Just found this old thread after I heard water sloshing around in my 54 plate 1.2 Dynamic last night, and yes the rubber drains on mine were solid with sludge.

Trying to clean them, I pushed them out. I'm tempted to leave them off. Should I put them back after cleaning, if, as DaveMcT says, they prevent fumes getting to the heater?
IMG_20190123_142620.jpg

9k=

fiat made over a million Pandas. if they served no purpose they would have omitted them themselves and saved 1/2 a million pounds or so.
 
When I bought my 1.1 those rubber drains were blocked and I accidently pushed one up into the scuttle while cleaning it.
I unscrewed the 3 screws that hold the black plastic scuttle cover down, lifted the front edge which meant I could get my mitts in to retrieve the drain tit, this also meant I could give the scuttle area a good clean out.

I would recommend replacing these screws for something in stainless and make cleaning it a Spring and post Autumn routine especially if you park near trees.
 
Despite my fears they weren't too hard to replace in the end. Just jimmied them into position with a stick and pulled them through. Also added a 'wick' as per DaveMcT's advice to help keep them clear.
Yep, just a yearly squeeze should keep them good in future, now I know about them.

It seems most cars weren't designed with places in mind featuring lots of trees and rain. Every car I've owned has had either a drain or mud trap that needs to be cleared out regularly. The trick is knowing about them before they lead to further problems, so thanks to everyone for the useful info on this topic:)
 
Further to this, are there any other drain holes or mud traps on the Panda that might need attention, please? I've had a look but can't find any drain holes under the car. Can water get trapped in the sills, doors, wings etc?

I didn't know the scuttle drains existed until I heard water sloshing whilst driving, and did some digging on the forum to find this old thread. I don't think they're mentioned in the owner handbook.


I understand the 'Known faults/problems/issues/things to be aware of' sticky is closed, but does anyone think it might be possible to add this kind of information somewhere central, to avoid regular contributors having to repeat themselves to those of us new to Panda ownership?
In case it helps anyone, in my first few months I've had to pay attention to these items not on the 'Known faults..' list:
Clear bulkhead scuttle drains
Inspect & treat rusty rear axle subframe
Inspect & treat rusty coolant return pipe at front of engine
Drain & renew coolant (after advice this engine really appreciates good coolant)
Park with wheels straight & avoid excessive steering inputs just after starting engine to avoid power steering failure (which happened to me twice early on, but never since following this advice)
 
There is a mud trap just behind the front brake hose chassis bracket. Clean it out and slather the metal with chain saw oil. It will fill up again but the oil will soak and protect the structure.

Do the same with front subframe or anything else that's looking exposed.

I've never had any hassle with the steering power load. My house is on a private narrow lane with a narrow gateway. I have to reverse out, make a full lock turn to right then full lock to left. It's a 100HP so the steering lock is less than a 1200 and by default it's on high power mode. Never even the slightest hurrumph from the steering.

My wife can get in backwards but the lack of lock on the 100HP is better the other way.
 
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There is a mud trap just behind the front brake hose chassis bracket. Clean it out and slather the metal with chain saw oil. It will fill up again but the oil will soak and protect the structure.

And what a trap it is, I pulled a lot of soil out of that little space. Source of some surface rust as well.
 

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As the original poster of the goat-milking comment, seeing this all come back up the threads has made me chuckle too!

Now, once you've all finished clearing the drain tubes, maybe you can explore the little 'smiley face' icon beneath the posts... Pressing that adds to my 'thanks' ratings :)

Pete
:):):)
Two years later I've just made use of this amazing thread and am very grateful. Milking a goat is a very polite expression, for me it felt akin to a different medical action....Thanks again anyway
 
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