The dealer warranty runs out next month on my 100HP.
So I'm thinking of servicing the car myself , mainly because of saving money .
The cars as just clocked up 25000 miles ,and the service counter is telling me 850 miles to go.
A few questions.
How long does the service warning on the dashboard stay on for after it crosses over the mileage the limit?.
Anybody come up with a way of resetting it(or cost of a reset) ?.
As anybody out there serviced their own 100HP.
And if so is there anything I should watch out for.
How difficult is it to remove and replace spark plugs and oil/air filter etc?
Should I use an Oil flushing additive before the oil change?
I am going to use Halfords own 5/40 fully synthetic oil (£35.00 for 5 ltrs).
is this OK?.
any comments or help would be appreciated.

I could be wrong, but I don't think the service light will ever go out unless it gets switched off. When I do mine I will probably just leave the warning light on and maybe get it switched off if I sell the car. I don't think you can go just by the service counter though because I don't think it takes time into consideration. It should be serviced every year even if it hasn't done many miles.

Have you done servicing before? I haven't looked at my 100HP, but the spark plugs and air filter are usually very easy to replace. The oil filter was quite hard to reach on my old car, but I don't know where it is on these.

The correct spec for the oil is 10W40, and you can get it quite a bit cheaper than that 5W40 stuff. I don't do an engine flush. I usually change my oil every 6 months which should prevent rubbish building up. At 3 years old you shouldn't really have any problems either.

Not specifically done a 1.4/100HP, but the 1.2 (which I suspect is loosely similar) is a doddle. Oil drain easy to reach (but uses a hex/allen key to unscrew). Filter on 1.2 is v easy to reach from underneath (although can be tricky to remove as it's sideways on to the engine and many filter removal tools won't fit. Plugs is only every 2 years/24,000 miles (slimmer than normal but easy to access), and air filter every three. Cleaning out the various breather tubes between engine and air box/manifold is good idea too. Brakes: fronts are the easiest I've ever done (under an hour for pads and discs); rear discs (which on my 4x4 are the same as the 100HP) look to be the same easy system but need special tool to wind the pistons back (not tried that yet). Service light reset -- find a local Bosch specialist or good independent mechanic and they'll reset it for you.

My 100hp is on 43k and never been back to the dealer.. so simple to service, as above really, be careful with the sump bolt on the 100hp though as it seems fairly easy to damage the sump thread.

Service light, when it gets close it should bong up on the dash, after a period of time it stops doing this, maybe 500-1000 miles, if i go into service on the obc it says 30k overdue or so but never comes up otherwise, so i just left it

I get all my bits from shop4parts, all genuine parts, good guys and delivery speed is excellent.

What is the timing belt like for replacing? Is that easy too? This is the only thing that I'm a bit unsure about. My last car didn't have one so I have never tried changing one before.

Do you need to replace a washer on the sump plug too or is it tapered?

Don't know about the belt -- I do my 'small' services but leave things like this to my friendly neighbourhood mechanic

Sump plug is tapered so no washers. But as above, be very sure its going in straight.

Advanced Driver said:

What is the timing belt like for replacing? Is that easy too? This is the only thing that I'm a bit unsure about. My last car didn't have one so I have never tried changing one before.

Do you need to replace a washer on the sump plug too or is it tapered?

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Timing belt is too far for me aswell, i work in the motortrade however so i can get it done no probs, however i'd say leave that one to a garage unless your really confident.There is a washer, copper i think for the sump bolt, you definately want to replace this each time.

Pretty much echo the above. I run an independent and have done all the servicing myself. The only thing that hasn't been mentioned is that on a 100HP you'll need to take the undertray off to get at the oil filter which is right on the front, sideways on.

Plugs and air filter are a doddle to change. Pollen filter is a PITA as the steering column gets in the way as it was designed for the LHD market.

Haven't done brakes yet but can't imagine they're difficult.

Sump is very delicate. I'm super careful with the drain bolt and use a torque wrench to ensure I don't over tighten it but still all the threads came out once. I didn't take a chance tapping it, I put a new sump pan on - £120 plus a coupe of hours to do it.

Sump bolt (13mm) does have a copper washer on it. If you forget to buy one (dealer will charge you 87p!), put the existing one on the other way round - but don't do this more than once!

I run mine on Mobil 1 0w-40 and don't find it really uses a lot of oil. I'd always recommend the best oil you can afford - cheap stuff is a complete false economy.

Timing belt will be done by one of my techs but by all accounts isn't that hard as timing belts go. Make sure you change the tensioner/guide pulley at the same time and you may as well do the water pump whilst you're there.

Service light needs to be reset with diagnostics - there's no manual method of doing so. If you're near me I'll do it FOC as it takes literally seconds.

That's about it I think.

Ben

Where are you in Surrey Ben ?

Couple of questions here,
Just how delicate is this sump thread?
What setting are using on the torque wrench to tighten the sump bolt.
Whats holding the under tray on.

udtrev said:

Where are you in Surrey Ben ?

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Godstone, a stone's throw form Jct6 M25.

Ben

mtsw said:

Couple of questions here,
Just how delicate is this sump thread?
What setting are using on the torque wrench to tighten the sump bolt.
Whats holding the under tray on.

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Well my bolt never went in awkward, I wind it all the way in with my fingers and never tighten to more than 25nm, but will stop before that if it feels tight enough, yet the threads still fell out in a little 'cartridge'.

OK so it's been in and out a few times because I've done 22k miles and have changed the oil every 3k (because I can!) but it still shouldn't have behaved how it did.

Undertray is (from memory) held on with 4 (or it maybe 6) 10mm bolts and two T25/27/30 (again, can't remember exactly) torx screws.

Ben

mtsw said:

Couple of questions here,
Just how delicate is this sump thread?
What setting are using on the torque wrench to tighten the sump bolt.
Whats holding the under tray on.

Click to expand...

Lol, very it would seem.. i've damaged the threads on mine but have done a temporary fix for now, i can't think what its called now but you can get this white tape thats very thin and wrap it round the thread of the bolt, worked a treat but i'll stick a new sump on next service. I thought maybe it was me over tightening that did it but i'm pleased i'm not the only one as like ben i'm very careful. I dont know the torque setting hopefully someone else will know this, if not i'd aim for the sort of tighteness you would do a spark plug, past finger tight but not that tight if that makes sense!

Undertray is held on by 5 (iirc) bolts, 2 at the front two at the back and maybe one pass side, and two torx bolts to the right..

PTFE tape -- sounds like a very temporary repair though!

I don't think the issue is overtightening. On mine (1.2 petrol) the plug is ever-so-slightly tapered (and has no washer as a result). Because of this it is easy to cross-thread it and it has to be put back very carefully. It doesn't need to be very tight either -- hand tight and a smidge has been good enough for me.

Posts on here give me the impression that the 100HP has a different sump from the 1.1 and 1.2 models. Ben, who sounds as if he knows what he is talking about, describes the 100HP as having a sump plug washer fitted whilst I know for a fact that the sump plug on 1.1 and 1.2 engines is a taper fit.
Sounds as if the arrangement on the 100HP is much more delicate than on the other petrol engines.

Herts Hillhopper said:

PTFE tape

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I always used to use this when I did an oil change. Is it recommended?

Advanced Driver said:

I always used to use this when I did an oil change. Is it recommended?

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Absolutely no need to use PTFE tape for the sump plug, you really shouldn't need it.

trackdayqueen said:

Absolutely no need to use PTFE tape for the sump plug, you really shouldn't need it.

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Fiats have been using tapered sump plugs for years - never been a problem replacing it - turn it anticlockwise gently to feel where the thread starts and then tighten carefully.

doctorchris said:

Posts on here give me the impression that the 100HP has a different sump from the 1.1 and 1.2 models. Ben, who sounds as if he knows what he is talking about, describes the 100HP as having a sump plug washer fitted whilst I know for a fact that the sump plug on 1.1 and 1.2 engines is a taper fit.
Sounds as if the arrangement on the 100HP is much more delicate than on the other petrol engines.

Click to expand...

I haven't seen a 1.1/1.2 Panda but the 100HP definitely has a sump washer for three reasons:

1. The first time I ever undid my first sump (at 3k miles from new), there was a washer present.
2. When I ordered my new filter from Fiat they asked if I wanted a sump washer.
3. When I fitted the new sump, it came with a new bolt and washer already fitted.

So, to conclude, the 100HP definitely has a sump washer!

Ben

Finally got around to servicing our 100HP this morning.
Bought service kit on line from Fos performance (very good to deal with) if any ones interested the links at bottom of page to copy and paste .

NGK plugs and Fram air/oil/ and cabin filters . £43.00inc P&P.
Used Halfords 5W/40 Fully Synthetic Oil 5L £34.99.
Local Fiat dealer for sump plug washer 85p.
The cabin filter is a bit awkward due to the steering column in the way,but bending it slightly and carefully slides in and cover clips back.
Did notice there was screw holes but no screws on the cabin filter cover.

Next was the Air filter, 3 bolts and a large clip + a small hose clip at rear of air box hold it onto the top of the engine.
once its off,6 small bolts (3 on top 3 on the bottom)hold air filter in the case.

Spark plugs are way down inside the engine ,but once the plug connector unit is removed (4 bolts +1 holding the cam sensor + 1 holding the unit to the engine) they are easy to replace, just make sure you keep the area around the plug holes clean.
I Found cleaning and wiping around the rubber bungs at the top of each plug connector with WD40 they went back down the plug holes with no problem.

Oil Change is a slight pain ,you need to remove the engine tray first 5 bolts and 2 torx screws.
Once tray is removed you can access the oil filter ,which is side ways fitted at front of engine , I used a strap wrench to remove filter as its very tight to engine and very hot.
Biggest worry for me ,was the dreaded sump plug that a few of you on here have had a problem with.
The sump case itself looks as if its made from some sort of alloy or aluminum.
Reminds me of the old BMC mini sumps.
This being a very soft metal ,you do need to be a bit more careful than with a pressed steal sump.
but all is required is when undoing the 13mm plug (17mm Socket is needed)is a sharp tap to the socket bar, don't pull hard on the socket bar this puts pressure on the soft threads.
Thoroughly clean the plug and sump thread (after all oil as drained away) and always, and I mean always ,use a new washer.
Replacing the plug is easy,start the thread lightly by hand ,any resistance at all and you will need to restart the thread again. once its going keep threading by hand until its tight to sump body.All is then needed is a light nip tightening with the socket.
Never over tighten, this pulls the threads down towards the plug,and the next time you change the oil , you will indeed strip the threads.
I think just under 3 liters of oil brings the level just above half way up dipstick.but I
always check the following day .
Thanks to all for your help,and I hope this will help you to service your cars yourselves.
One last thing ,when I was picking up sump washer from Fiat Dealer,
I asked how much to reset the service counter .
That will be £36.00 + vat sir
when I got back up off the floor ,I said I don't want to buy the reset machine,just want the counter reset.
that's the going rate sir.
can any one beat that ?.

Here's service kit link
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SERVICE-KIT-NEW-FIAT-PANDA-1-4-16V-FRAM-FILTERS-PLUGS_W0QQitemZ370343415579QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item563a300f1b