Technical Clutch switch and codes

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Technical Clutch switch and codes

Hi again,
I tried disconnecting the MAF, it idled very roughly at around 700 to 800 rpm, plug the MAF back in and it idles lovely at around 900rpm. I checked the two large plugs that go into the ECU, spotless. It seems from what I can find out there's no idle control valve on the fly by wire throttle bodies, the butterfly is controlled by the ECU. It's the same TB as the 500 I think. I'll check the earths
What gets me is it started doing this when it was just over a year old, then it didn't happen again until just about 2 1/2 years old. I had it booked in last year for a check before the warranty ran out, but the garage closed because of covid, and now it's out of warranty.
I don't like taking my cars to main dealers.
 
But does Alan's car have a MAF sensor? Isn't it a code for MAF or MAP sensor, depending wich one you have? I think it dosen't have a MAF.
Alan, take over...
 
But does Alan's car have a MAF sensor? Isn't it a code for MAF or MAP sensor, depending wich one you have? I think it dosen't have a MAF.
Alan, take over...
Sorry I changed my post after searching the forum for p0101.

No there are separate codes for map and maf sensors.

Thinking the car with the problem doesn't have a maf sensor but has a code for a MAF sensor lead me to think p0101 is not the full fault code and it needs reading with mes.
 
Guys,
MAP sensor only.
All I have is a simple code reader/ deleter.
Alan.
 
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Hi again,
I tried disconnecting the MAF

I think you ment the MAP here.
I'm thinking there could be a connection problem, you said you put a new MAP sensor. Try cleaning the contacts on the MAP plug and also check for continuity. Maybe there is a bad connection, check the wires that go into plug and while checking for continuity pull and move the wires to be able to find if you have an interruption.
 
Correct, my mistake, MAP.
I'll check all of the connectors in the plug this morning.
Is it normal for the revs to rise to 1500 when it goes into limp mode?
Thanks,
Alan.
 
Use search function for p0101 and p0106
Someone else had the same problem

Your basic code reader is not giving you the full code .

Your code reader is giving you a code for a MAF sensor which you don't have
And a code for a clutch pedal switch(p0106 ## On mes comes back as nothing to do with clutch pedal switch for other person)
Mes gives full code which is different to the basic codes.

The other person who had same codes used mes , got the full codes and description of what they mean, which then makes sense and fits what is happening to your car perfectly.
 
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I read that link before, yes, 0101-62?, I need a better code reader before I go stripping the inlet manifold off. Has anyone done it ?, big job?, or should I just go ahead and replace them I wonder?.
Thanks.
Alan.
 
I didn't do it on Panda, I don't know how it is. I did it on Punto, was pretty easy, have to be careful on injectors not to pull their cables. I don't think on Panda should be more different.
 
Had same problem twice.

Last year under warranty. (2014 1.2)

0106 and 0101. Do not mess with the manifold its not that!

Mine had evaporation cannister / vapour trap and solenoid replaced.

Evap / vapour trap F 0000052105703 £47.25
Solenoid Warranty no part number given but cost £252
Also did the flame trap in breather pipe F0000004400431 £16.34 and
Air temp sensor (MAP) F 0000077364869 £128.66 I do not think the MAP was really needed but have the old one back as a spare. You may save a fortune if pattern parts available. but sometimes original spares are cheaper so check.

I now have a catch can fitted and the engine is dry so don't expect to suffer this solenoid failing again with luck.

Thankfully the solenoid was replaced FOC so it could have been worse. I also suspect if the parts were given WD40 and dried they might well have been OK but did not try as the car is needed on standby for my daughter to get to work.

Recommend remove throttle body and clean the gunge from the inlet manifold as this seems to be the cause, and in the older car it was SWIMMING!!! Throttle body removal is easy with the right torx bit. Catch can on this motor strongly advised.

I understand if the evap solenoid fails it may result in MAP being contaminated.
 
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Agreed about the catch can. I use one and it collects a lot of oil and condensation.
They are a cool running engine. I wish I could get a hotter thermostat.
 
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If the evap canister valve doesn't close correctly or there is a hole in the pipe from manifold to evap solenoid that could very well be the problem.

If it is easy disconnect the pipe between inlet manifold and evap solenoid and plug the pipe. you can leave the solenoid pipe connection open.

Clear codes test car if works correctly then evap solenoid valve possibly faulty.
 
So, I cleaned the contacts on the solenoid, then cleaned the petrol tank filler cap on the flap, and also the neck, and so far so good, it's idling fine, as it should. I've had it ticking over for 15 minutes, road tested it and stopped at various traffic lights, dare I say it?, problem solved?, wouldn't that be a good result.
The vacuum in the tank wasn't good enough, or the contacts on the solenoid were dirty, when the solenoid opened, there was no vacuum in the pipe to the tank, the revs went up, the MAP detected a big rush of air coming into the manifold and gave the P0101 code?, I switch it off, the solenoid closes, the engine idles fine, until the same process happens again, is that the correct thinking?
What a faf, for something silly, (I hope).
So, whether or not it's fixed, hopefully it is, thank you all. I'm on quite a few motorcycle forums, and a classic car one, and I have to say, I've had more useful help and suggestions from this forum and you guys than any other.
I'll keep you updated, hehe, hopefully with good news!.
Thanks,
Alan.
 
Promising, I do hope its a fix, I will have a look at mine on my day off, keep me informed of progress. Thanks again, Kevin.
 
Update,
The solenoid purge switch is sticking, first time I took it off a week ago I couldn't blow through it, now I can, so i pushed the plunger with a very thin screwdriver and it pinged closed. Quite sticky. I then put the power onto it with the ignition on, and I could still blow through it. Tried WD40, and it moves up and down quite nicely now, but still doesn't seal properly. So, the only one I could get quickly was £266. I see one on Aliexpress for £47, looks identical, same numbers, made in USA etc, but it will take forever to come, so in the meantime I've bought a used one from Fleabay. Will keep you up to date.
Alan.
 
Hello Alan, I havent had the time to try your fix yet, Have you had any more problems ? I did put a new ECU on was OK for a while, BUT THEN yes it came back only when hot again, when hot let it idle and in 10 seconds 1500 rpm NO throttle response, stuck at 1500, switch off restart in 10 seconds its back, switch off restart and gently rev and up and down fine until you stop for 10 seconds then 1500 fixed rpm again, I have looked and live data says 02B1S1 0.010 volts (indicating lean ? ) 02B1S20 0.830 volts (indicating rich ? ) does this mean bad Lambda before cat ? cat temp CATEMP 1065 f, if any one can help please ? Many Thanks, Kevin.
 
Hello Alan, I havent had the time to try your fix yet, Have you had any more problems ? I did put a new ECU on was OK for a while, BUT THEN yes it came back only when hot again, when hot let it idle and in 10 seconds 1500 rpm NO throttle response, stuck at 1500, switch off restart in 10 seconds its back, switch off restart and gently rev and up and down fine until you stop for 10 seconds then 1500 fixed rpm again, I have looked and live data says 02B1S1 0.010 volts (indicating lean ? ) 02B1S20 0.830 volts (indicating rich ? ) does this mean bad Lambda before cat ? cat temp CATEMP 1065 f, if any one can help please ? Many Thanks, Kevin.
Is your check engine light on?
Are there any stored fault codes?
If yes what are the codes?
 
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