Technical confused over which oil
- Thread starter Jon S
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Technical confused over which oil
If youve kept clean oil in it.. the filter is probably spotless 
What oil did the garages invoice say they used?
What oil did the garages invoice say they used?
To me its like scrapping a car because it has a flat tyre
Get it sorted and enjoy again....Better the devil you know
Luigi
I totally agree! The cheapest car you have, is the one that you own!
Jon S apologies for doom and gloom, but am curious how the car has just accepted changes of oil over your ownership. As my current Euro 6 2016 one, if I do over 5k on oil before changing, it misfires, goes into limp mode and runs on a cylinder. If you have an earlier car it shouldn't do it (my 63 plate didn't). Risk of Uniair and clutch and flywheel on my car if had done over 80k, might be more than it's worth (one day). Uniair filter allegedly needs cleaning every 40k. If yours clean can rule that out. Hope someone on MES register near you who can reset the Uniair. Seemingly the car can feel slower after that but performance returns. You'll know, trust me. It got a lot quicker, must be safety mechanism.
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Quick update for anyone interested!
Had the codes all checked and the only fault was "turbo air leak".
The mechanic then reset all the "oil service codes" apparently there are 3 of them.
He then took out the uniair oil filter (my request following advice on here- thanks!) it wasn't bad perhaps a little clogged on one side so he cleaned it off and reinstalled .
One of the air pipes was loose which may have accounted for the fault code so he tightened this up and sent me on my way.
So far so good but only done about 40 miles in it since this work so wouldn't expect a problem yet.
For those who asked- it has 82k miles oil changed anually (approx 12-15k miles most years) it's a 2014 car. I've had the DMF and clutch done already.
Still running on the 0/30 but I will change if it continues to through the odd hissy fit
Had the codes all checked and the only fault was "turbo air leak".
The mechanic then reset all the "oil service codes" apparently there are 3 of them.
He then took out the uniair oil filter (my request following advice on here- thanks!) it wasn't bad perhaps a little clogged on one side so he cleaned it off and reinstalled .
One of the air pipes was loose which may have accounted for the fault code so he tightened this up and sent me on my way.
So far so good but only done about 40 miles in it since this work so wouldn't expect a problem yet.
For those who asked- it has 82k miles oil changed anually (approx 12-15k miles most years) it's a 2014 car. I've had the DMF and clutch done already.
Still running on the 0/30 but I will change if it continues to through the odd hissy fit
soc
Member
I would be interested to know if your cars engine runs well with 0/30. My current TA 4x4 is currently running on 5/30 and not sure if I should go for the 0/30 on the next oil change and rest it all via the Fiat software.
Why use an oil your vehicle was built to use?
If you are trying to achive the MPG figures FIAT published..
Put an MJ sticker on it
If you are trying to achive the MPG figures FIAT published..
Put an MJ sticker on it
Why use an oil your vehicle was built to use?
If you are trying to achive the MPG figures FIAT published..
Put an MJ sticker on it
Oil specs often change during many years of production for differing reasons. To cite some reasons I've read over the years are.
Excessive cam lobe wear..... Oil viscosity to high when cold or in winter so the winter spec is now applicable to all year use eg going from 15W40 to 5W40. Also have seen this to improve winter starting. Reducing viscosity to improve fuel consumption. Change of oil spec not viscosity to reduce timing chain wear and many others. These are in the main recommended for existing vehicles and in the past the dealer would ask for the handbook and put a sticker over the existing recommendation, not these days though as it costs a few coppers.
These changes were done without any material changes to the engine.
soc
Member
So, taking all this into account, as my TA has done over 110k miles, would it make sense to change the current spec of oil from the recommended 5/30 to something else more suited ? The engine runs like a dream, no smoke and pulls like a train!
No.... what we are saying is to leave it at the older specification not to go thicker than the spec. If you go thicker than the spec in the TA you will land up with issues in the uniair module.
soc
Member
Ok so going thicker than the recommended 5/30 is not a good idea because of the uniair module but what about going thinner say 0/30 . Would this offer any benefits?
The issue with the TA is the way the valves work with hydraulic pressure. A viscosity change will effect how they operate. Lift could change with a thinner cold oil so I'd stick with the spec that Fiat specify.
The conventional FIRE unit is different but I tried the new 0w20 spec and on two occasions there was slight bearing noise on start up after the car sat for a few days.
No doubt due to the thin oil draining from the bearing surfaces and draining back by syphon into the sump. Back to 5w40 with no issues.
