What now?

2016 Panda Cross TwinAir, 15k miles. It also says 'stop&start unavailable' and 'check engine'.

This happened after about 150 miles, which is the longest trip I have done pretty much forever. The first 25 miles of this trip took about 2 hours to go 25 miles on the M1. After the light came on I drove 200 miles with no obvious problems.

I wondered if this might be a low battery as I was running a cool box from the 12v socket. I checked the battery voltage at 12.7v, then put it on charge for a few hours but it pretty much immediately showed full charge.

You'll need to get the codes read. 12.7v with the engine off is fine. A cool box won't be the issue as its a peltier device and the current consumption is just few amps, less than headlights.

With motorway use yesterday..a fair chance things got soaked

SOME things that flag errors will clear after 3 engine starts..

Worth checking for current and stored codes though

Look on the MES register.. top of FF homepage

Im not sure VAG centric cheap readers will give accurate info regarding FIATs FPT tech..

My diesel needed MES..

my old chinese reader just didnt see the errors

Charlie

I have a ELM327 dongle and Alfa OBD app which reads codes fine. I've had the Bluetooth dongle for many years and never have an issue with it.
Even the free demo version of Alfa OBD will read the engine ECU and codes.

murphyv310 said:

I have a ELM327 dongle and Alfa OBD app which reads codes fine. I've had the Bluetooth dongle for many years and never have an issue with it.
Even the free demo version of Alfa OBD will read the engine ECU and codes.

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Again..written for FiatPowerTrain

My VS 600 works faultlessly on VAG..
WAS OK on my 169 panda..

But later stuff seems to be beyond it..

MES and AlfaOBD being written for Italian vehicles seem the logical choice

Never had any errors on my twinairs to test them..)

Okay, looks like I will need to get someone to plug in and read the data.

If just had been triangle would say ignore. Have done for years. Had Stop Start message and flashing engine light due to misfire after oil change. Having another tomorrow but because done under 5k miles won't cause any issues.

Fault could be anything. Assuming is one at all.

Mark Hurst said:

Okay, looks like I will need to get someone to plug in and read the data.

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Look at the forums MultiECUScan register..

Somebody could be local to you

A basic reader is worth a try though if a garage visit is the only option.

Do bear in mind some basic errors can clear after 3 engine starts.

Once you have a fault code..

SEARCH it on here.. most are common

Misfires.. poor signals.. sensors


Good luck.. and do let us know what you find

Charlie

varesecrazy said:

Look at the forums MultiECUScan register..
Charlie

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If I understand what this is, it shows people who have the diagnosis gear themselves? Nobody is closer than Cambridge (I'm in Luton) but surely I can find a repair shop to diagnose this? I don't mind paying for the diagnosis but if Halfords charge me 50 quid and can't read any codes I will try not to pay.

BTW, it's been over a week and many more than three engine starts I have done a bit of googling and have picked up that I shouldn't just start replacing parts before researching whatever codes come up!

Will report back in due course.

Mark Hurst try this place. https://www.autolusso.co.uk/

Al D said:

Mark Hurst try this place. https://www.autolusso.co.uk/

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Crikey, that's practically within walking distance of my house. I will definitely give them a ring tomorrow, thanks!

Ah. What I didn't mention (because I thought it was unrelated) was that the morning after I started getting the engine light, I found my clutch pedal was stuck half-way down. I drove it for a while like that and then discovered I could pull it back up by hooking my foot undeneath it. It happened a couple more times over the next day or two, then not since.

A new switch will be £30 or £60, depending on which turns out to be the right part.

Al D said:

Mark Hurst try this place. https://www.autolusso.co.uk/

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:slayer:

Mark Hurst said:

Ah. What I didn't mention (because I thought it was unrelated) was that the morning after I started getting the engine light, I found my clutch pedal was stuck half-way down. I drove it for a while like that and then discovered I could pull it back up by hooking my foot undeneath it. It happened a couple more times over the next day or two, then not since.

A new switch will be £30 or £60, depending on which turns out to be the right part.

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Might this also suggest the clutch cylinder (master or slave) is playing up, and so not returning fully to the 'up' position?

Herts Hillhopper said:

Might this also suggest the clutch cylinder (master or slave) is playing up, and so not returning fully to the 'up' position?

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Well at the moment the clutch works fine, so my money's on a stuck switch that was somehow interfering with the pedal return.

I think you'll find that the code will report clutch position error or something like that. When the system sees a switch in the down position and there has been gear changes the light comes on. It stays on till the codes are cleared even if the original issue is fixed. Sounds like the return spring in the slave is rusted, common issue. These cars seem to need regular brake fluid changes. As the OEM fill degrades quickly.

murphyv310 said:

I think you'll find that the code will report clutch position error or something like that. When the system sees a switch in the down position and there has been gear changes the light comes on. It stays on till the codes are cleared even if the original issue is fixed. Sounds like the return spring in the slave is rusted, common issue. These cars seem to need regular brake fluid changes. As the OEM fill degrades quickly.

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My 2017 clutch stuck down like this and then worked fine for a while it turned out in the end to need a new master cylinder there is an internal spring that can give trouble. I had it done under warranty and never had any more trouble. Dealer did it while I waited so about an hour to change. It seems there is an issue with these as there are also threads in the 500 section reporting similar probs. I wonder if you could rig a traditional external return spring....

The Panda Nut said:

My 2017 clutch stuck down like this and then worked fine for a while it turned out in the end to need a new master cylinder there is an internal spring that can give trouble. I had it done under warranty and never had any more trouble. Dealer did it while I waited so about an hour to change. It seems there is an issue with these as there are also threads in the 500 section reporting similar probs. I wonder if you could rig a traditional external return spring....

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You are spot on its not the slave its the master....... Senior moment on my part

The Panda Nut said:

My 2017 clutch stuck down like this and then worked fine for a while it turned out in the end to need a new master cylinder there is an internal spring that can give trouble. I had it done under warranty and never had any more trouble. Dealer did it while I waited so about an hour to change. It seems there is an issue with these as there are also threads in the 500 section reporting similar probs. I wonder if you could rig a traditional external return spring....

Click to expand...

I suppose it would help if we knew the algorithm for the error code it's reporting. At the moment the clutch seems to work fine but the shop guy said error code won't clear. I am presuming this means the algorithm is still failing.

Duplicate deleted