johncard007 said:

I have read on forums (Maybe this one?) about people having corrosion of the rear axle/differential of their Panda 4x4, Cross.

I have a two year old TA Cross and was considering taking some pre-emptive action as it were, by buying some Hammerite Kurust to neutralise any surface rust and follow it up with some 'Hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl'.

I was wondering what your thoughts are, is there anything better to use out there and any other areas under the floor that I should consider - brake pipes, bash plate (sump guard) etc? I appreciate that the shell of the car is galvanised to some degree.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

John

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johncard007 said:

I have read on forums (Maybe this one?) about people having corrosion of the rear axle/differential of their Panda 4x4, Cross.

I have a two year old TA Cross and was considering taking some pre-emptive action as it were, by buying some Hammerite Kurust to neutralise any surface rust and follow it up with some 'Hammerite underbody seal with waxoyl'.

I was wondering what your thoughts are, is there anything better to use out there and any other areas under the floor that I should consider - brake pipes, bash plate (sump guard) etc? I appreciate that the shell of the car is galvanised to some degree.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers!

John

Click to expand...

Panda IIs said:

Well, not wishing to be a smart Alec but if yours is a 2012+ model (312 type) then I think you'll find you've got independent rear suspension (rather than live axle) meaning the diff is fixed to the car (and is actually an alloy casting) and the wheels connected via shafts and c.v. joints. Personally I wouldn't mess with the diff casting since the raw alloy surface will have a surface layer of corrosion (that's what aluminum and it's alloys do) and actually makes for a good indicator should the diff seals start to weep oil.

I think there can be issues with the swinging arms (which locate the wheel hubs) and corrosion if the powder coating gets damaged (almost certainly will) and having taken a quick look at mine there are various bits of bracketry that the diff hangs off that are clearly steel (with surface rust) and would benefit from a squirt of waxoyl or similar. I think I too read something about "rear axle" in regard to 500's but this would not have been 4x4 specific and I think those do suffer - I think its a beam axle and either a pressed steel box or tube? (Others more enlightened, or bothered to search will inform us )

I fitted a tow bar to mine ('63 plate 4x4) and was pleasantly surprised by the body seal/galvanizing around the rear chassis rails.

Personally I don't think I'd go poking around with a wire brush anywhere, if I was going to lay under the car (or maybe you have the luxury of a car lift?) then I'd squirt some waxoyl around but not anywhere where I'd want to see if there were leaks...

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Herts Hillhopper said:

The differential case is aluminium so that won’t need rust proofing. And the suspension arms are pretty solid: best action is hosing off salt-laden mud after the winter and being sure the drain holes, especially those under the spring ‘cups’ are kept clear. The risk is these become blocked by applying rust proofing, which would actually lead to more chance of rust forming.

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johncard007 said:

... maybe the disc backing plates as I've had issues with other cars where they have corroded to nothing.

Thanks for the info, much appreciated!

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Panda IIs said:

Well, not wishing to be a smart Alec but if yours is a 2012+ model (312 type) then I think you'll find you've got independent rear suspension (rather than live axle) meaning the diff is fixed to the car (and is actually an alloy casting) and the wheels connected via shafts and c.v. joints. Personally I wouldn't mess with the diff casting since the raw alloy surface will have a (protective) surface layer of corrosion (since that's what aluminum and it's alloys do) and actually makes for a good indicator should the diff seals start to weep oil.

I think there can be issues with the swinging arms (which locate the wheel hubs) and corrosion if the powder coating gets damaged (almost certainly will) and having taken a quick look at mine there are various bits of bracketry that the diff hangs off that are clearly steel (with surface rust) and would benefit from a squirt of waxoyl or similar. I think I too read something about "rear axle" in regard to 500's but this would not have been 4x4 specific and I think those do suffer - I think its a beam axle and either a pressed steel box or tube? (Others more enlightened, or bothered to search will inform us )

I fitted a tow bar to mine ('63 plate 4x4) and was pleasantly surprised by the body seal/galvanizing around the rear chassis rails.

Personally I don't think I'd go poking around with a wire brush anywhere if I was going to lay under the car (or maybe you have the luxury of a car lift?) then I'd squirt some waxoyl around but not anywhere where I'd want to see if there were leaks...

Click to expand...

Motorcyclist Colin said:

I have used Waxoyl in the past as rustproofing, but now the only Waxoyl I can find has underseal mixed in and comes out a bit thick. My preferred rustproofer (with good "creep" ability) now is Bilt Hamber Dynax UC available in 750ml spray cans with an alternative probe spray tube and the ability to spray when upside down or on it's side.
Works for me . No connection with Bilt Hamber apart from a satisfied customer

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