Hi,

short question,

can I mount alloy wheels with retaining screws dismounted?

I ordered set of brand new alloy discs, all specs are exactly the same as original sheet wheels, and discs are officialy certified for a Panda 312, wheels fit lovely and tight - but dont have extra cut-out for that pins (need to be removed). Could any trouble/misunderstanding happen? (vehicle is in warranty).
What about tightening? Certificate is saying 90Nm, is that allright?

Thanks

https://proline-wheels.de/en/collection/vx100/ in black

Yes you wheels will be harder to get Into place without the screws as they hold the disc in places too them moving around but the wheel bolts will hold them once lined up

Diwiak said:

Hi,

short question,

can I mount alloy wheels with retaining screws dismounted?

I ordered set of brand new alloy discs, all specs are exactly the same as original sheet wheels, and discs are officialy certified for a Panda 312, wheels fit lovely and tight - but dont have extra cut-out for that pins (need to be removed). Could any trouble/misunderstanding happen? (vehicle is in warranty).
What about tightening? Certificate is saying 90Nm, is that allright?

Thanks

https://proline-wheels.de/en/collection/vx100/ in black

Click to expand...

Hi.

The threaded pins actually hold the brakes in position

They do NOT help to align the wheels

What you COULD DO..

Use a plain bolt.. just a thread and hexhead.. no spike (older FIATS had 1 of these and 1 spiked)

Then you can drill a small and shallow hole in the alloy wheel to clear the small bolt head

Thanks for answers,

I know which bolts you mean (had them on Sei) but drilling into brand new wheel, is not what i want to try .

I was digging and complicatedly translating through that TUV certificate (german which I dont speak), and its already mentioned there:

"B02 - Vor Montage der Räder sind eventuell vorhandene Zentrierstifte, Befestigungs-Schrauben oder Sicherungsringe an den Anschlussflanschen des Fahrzeugs zu entfernen."

="Before mounting the wheels, any existing centering pins, fastening screws or locking rings on the connecting flanges of the vehicle must be removed".

so definitely it was tested and approved to work without them.

Hi.
Once the wheel is on, it clamps the disc to the hub very tightly, a small bolt like that is really only there to hold the disc when the wheel is removed. Only a disc with a dished retaining screw and the disc with a chamfered recess for that bolt will have anything to do with reducing eccentricity of the disc. It will be fine less this bolt.

If this really worries you about runout (eccentricity) then remove the caliper and disc and screw in a stud of sufficient length to be flush with the disc edge when fitted.
Eccentricity can be felt on the steering when braking at speed.

The wheel will centre on the ring on the hub. But without this small bolt the disc could turn a little with the wheel off (normally rust will prevent that) and the boltholes could not completely line up, making returning the 4 bolts holding the wheel (and disc) a little more challenging. But you will be fine without them.

gr J

If it were me..

I would want SOMETHING holding drums :disks in place

Nothing stopping you countersinking the mount holes and using a countersunk bolt :screw

So wheel will mount perfectly

( I use a threaded piece of 12mm bar..
Screw into hub
Slide wheel over the bar.. keeps it all together while you get 2 wheel bolts in place )

varesecrazy said:

If it were me..

I would want SOMETHING holding drums :disks in place

Nothing stopping you countersinking the mount holes and using a countersunk bolt :screw

So wheel will mount perfectly

( I use a threaded piece of 12mm bar..
Screw into hub
Slide wheel over the bar.. keeps it all together while you get 2 wheel bolts in place )

Click to expand...

Simple ideas often the best. I will add same to my tool kit. On a dark freezing night it might make the wheel change so much easier. Thanks.

The Panda Nut said:

Simple ideas often the best. I will add same to my tool kit. On a dark freezing night it might make the wheel change so much easier. Thanks.

Click to expand...

They were developed for cinq:sei sportings

As my old lampredi era cars had a decent amount of space for ME to prop the wheel in the right direction

I will have to add photo's

New wheels fits nice, running good,
only thing that concerns me are free holes after removed retaining screws, some water will flow through back drums while cleaning but not that significant

https://www.fiatforum.com/members-m...2-69k-euro6-s-s-sicilia-orange.html?p=4529309

Get a bolt of the correct thread and cut it to the correct length and then cut a slot in it for a screwdriver. Then just screw it in with threadlock so its level with the drum. Job done!!

What about a rubber grommet to cover the hole?

Ive been thinking of cutting a piece from thick rubber O ring.

But is that needed at all?? :chin::chin: What gets in - will get out down the drum, its not water-tight....??!...
What do you think?

Countersinking then using c/s bolt with socket head is surely the best engineering solution

Diwiak said:

Ive been thinking of cutting a piece from thick rubber O ring.

But is that needed at all?? :chin::chin: What gets in - will get out down the drum, its not water-tight....??!...
What do you think?

Click to expand...

I'd be concerned about spray from the road especially on winter with the salt over time causing corrosion build up inside

Well .. as weve been debating this for a while
Diwiak

When you next remove a rear wheel:

Hold the brake drum stationary..
Rotate the hub 90 degrees

You should have 4 large holes.. wheel bolts

2 blind holes.. where the small pins were

Let me know
( you take good photos)

chris3234 said:

I'd be concerned about spray from the road especially on winter with the salt over time causing corrosion build up inside

Click to expand...

I have different set of sheet wheels for winter used together with retaining screws, Iam only worry of some water splash/dust from summer season

varesecrazy said:

Well .. as weve been debating this for a while

Hold the brake drum stationary..
Rotate the hub 90 degrees

You should have 4 large holes.. wheel bolts

2 blind holes.. where the small pins were

Click to expand...

Great idea!! I know where are you pointing but I want to avoid this, because (it was mentioned above in this topic) while moving with drum some dirt/rust could get between drum/hub contact area and will make worse..??..

But its far the most painless and easiest method I think, together with removing drum completely and cleaning inside as well? Is there any problem with ABS ring/sensor while removing drum??

Told you you take good pics..

Ok.. take a step back here

You see little point in having the drum bolted to the hub..

But

Are concerned about it running 'out of true'...

I think you now have all the answers... enjoy..!!