I fitted a towbar to my panda 4x4 today.

In the process, I notice my fog light bulb was out. After some testing, it seems the Panda does not warn you about blown bulbs. Does this negate the need for a bypass relay? A bypass relay is only used in cars that test bulb resistance to detect failure, as it can create falls positives if you don't use a relay, right?

Sorry, have to disagree here, my 4x4 TA 63 plate most definitely does detect failed bulbs. Certainly front and rear sides, driving and brake lights. I think I read on recent thread that it doesn't pick up on failed head lights on the premise that you can see they're not working.

Can't comment re the function of the bypass relay.

You cannot put the extra load for the trailer on the thin wiring. So YES you will need a bypassrelay.
And YES a Panda will tell you if a bulb is out. Not the H4 fronts though since you should be able to see that yourself as well as the indicators that will flash twice the speed if a bulb is out.

gr J

The bulb failure system will tell you if the following bulbs have failed. But, only if the light in question is turned on (it ‘watches’ for the wrong current flow)
- side [and tail] lights
- number plate lights
- rear fog light
- indicators
- daytime running lights

(As listed on page 144 of the owners handbook - here http://aftersales.fiat.com/eLumData.../00_319_PANDA_603.99.249_EN_01_09.12_L_LG.pdf )

The bypass relay is not because of bulb failure detection, but because the thin cables of a Canbus-wired car cannot carry the extra load.

Thanks for the comments. I'll use the relay then, any tips on getting power to the rear?

My rear fog light and reverse light failure was definitely not detected though. I didn't test any other bulbs.

As stated you do need a relay.

You have to power the relay all the way from the fuse box/battery as there's no supply in the rear. (unlike quality cars like my Dacia)

It's advised you power it from a constant live as you can set the cars lights to stay on with the ignition off, if you wired it to a switched you'd lose the trailer lights with the ignition off.

Don't forget to fuse this and you might need to scrape a bit of paint off the earthing point in the rear, when I did mine there was a couple of good earth points behind the side panel in the boot corner but they were thick with paint.

eshroom said:

Thanks for the comments. I'll use the relay then, any tips on getting power to the rear?

My rear fog light and reverse light failure was definitely not detected though. I didn't test any other bulbs.

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Regarding the light failure warning, the manual does say "where fitted", which suggests it may not be on some models or in some markets.

There are 'dedicated' towbar wiring kits for the Panda (which are much better as they don't use those horrid Scotchlock wiring connectors that ruin the thin wires of a modern car wiring loom)... these tend to have a fitting that connects onto the fuse box that is inside the car. The alternative is to run a lead direct from the battery positive terminal (via a fuse) and then into the car. Either way, the cable to the back of the car is then run under the plastic trim inside the bottom of the doors and to the bypass that is fitted in the boot. The instructions from one of the dedicated kits can be viewed here which will show the route needed: https://www.pfjones.co.uk/pfjoneswiringkits/19050520PF_FIAT_Panda_02-12.pdf

eshroom said:

Thanks for the comments. I'll use the relay then, any tips on getting power to the rear?

My rear fog light and reverse light failure was definitely not detected though. I didn't test any other bulbs.

Click to expand...

Remove the n/s front wheel arch liner and on the bulkhead you will see a plastic grommet with a bundle of wires / wire coming through. There is a place for a single cable that can be cut and used. I bought d=some cable feeding rods and used these to get into the cabin and then pulled the wire back through. You can then pop the wire up behind the headlight and connect to the battery. This is quite a straightforward task if you have the tools are available.

Sorry to bump an ancient thread, but my Westfalia / PF Jones 'own brand' 13 pin towbar kit came today.

Should you only need '7 pin' functionality, the power is taken from a break-in lead at the front N/S fusebox (so it seems) but of course for the extra 13 pin functions you only get a 'universal' add-on kit which interfaces with all marques of specific '7 pin' kit at the boot end.

So they don't know or care how to get that wire from the engine (battery) to the rear. I soon noticed that the unused throttle grommet doesn't exist on the 2012 Panda (makes sense if all are now DbW) and was a bit lost as to what to do and there are very few threads on here. Panda Nut's post sounds very hopeful though I'd better leave a day to do this I think. That said the towbar fitting sounds even easier than on a 169, no fishing around for bolts underneath - looks like the entire load is taken through the threads that hold the crash protection bar you remove?

datadiffusion said:

Sorry to bump an ancient thread, but my Westfalia / PF Jones 'own brand' 13 pin towbar kit came today.

Should you only need '7 pin' functionality, the power is taken from a break-in lead at the front N/S fusebox (so it seems) but of course for the extra 13 pin functions you only get a 'universal' add-on kit which interfaces with all marques of specific '7 pin' kit at the boot end.

So they don't know or care how to get that wire from the engine (battery) to the rear. I soon noticed that the unused throttle grommet doesn't exist on the 2012 Panda (makes sense if all are now DbW) and was a bit lost as to what to do and there are very few threads on here. Panda Nut's post sounds very hopeful though I'd better leave a day to do this I think. That said the towbar fitting sounds even easier than on a 169, no fishing around for bolts underneath - looks like the entire load is taken through the threads that hold the crash protection bar you remove?

Click to expand...

You are right about the crash beam fixings. You even use the crash beam retaining nuts. There are two arms that go inside the chassis tubes that are secured through exisiting holes once the grommets have been removed. You may need to unhook the silencer to get a ratchet on, but I may be confusing this with the Bravo. Worst job is shifting the bumper and making the cut for the socket. The bumper is so soft I used a stanley knife to cut this with pilot holes to mark the corner.. Its a 2-3 hour job at a steady pace.

Being a posh git for a short time (i.e. bought a current reg car for the first time in my life) hoping the bumper and inner wheel trim will come off nicely, but we'll see! Certainly not looking forward to the cut but did it a few years ago on a 169 4x4.

Anyway cheers for advice

We heated up a small kitchen knife with a gastorch to make the cutout in the diffuser of the Abarth.
Do you need the 13pin connection? There will be 12V in the fusebox that you can tap into.

Edit: My 2011 500 still has the rubber grommet just above the pedals (LHD). Look behind the battery for the grommet. Always use an inline fuse.

gr J

My experience is the wheel arch liner and bumper come off easily. You dont have to totally remove the wheel arch liners to fit the tow bar. just release the rear edge and bend it out of the way.

Get a helper for the bumper The standard 4x4 / wild does not have these things so is a little easier as the plastic trims break easily if stressed. The bumper bar is easy but has so much rubber anti corrosion spray it may take a bit to trim this off. I used Dinitrol rust proofer in the whole of the rear to makes sure it was all sealed up before refitting the bumper. The Fiat spray is pretty tough stuff. If you have the cross type bumper do not remove the wheel arch edge trim from the bumper. Its not required so look out which screws you remove from the wheel arch. This was the trim I broke. Thankfully the black plastic glue I have repaired it instantly and its now 2 years on and still fine.

If of interest I have a few photos of the car in undressed state.