Apologies for slow reply, it's been a busy few days!

murphyv310 said:

Isn't that strange. The car I had prior to my first Panda was a Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto X499MFL Seen on many posts on The 75&ZT forum

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Small world! In my experience the KV6 has been a really good engine. I must have owned the ZS for nearly 10 years and can't recall any major mechanical faults really. The main issue I've had has been the body control unit (BCU) and its soldered-on relays, which don't have the best lifespan. One of now several things that need attention before I can put the car in for an MOT and have it on the road again.

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Last year, before I started on the cam belts, I had a look at what would be involved in undoing and subsequently torquing up the crank pulley (sprocket) bolt. Having had these off various engines over the years I know how tight they can be. Some seem to recon that the crank locking tool is strong enough to do the job. But, as it only uses the 6mm bolt which holds the belt cover and the aluminium lug it screws into on the front of the engine doesn't look all that robust, I don't think I'll be trying that. Of course you can jam the flywheel ring gear with a large screwdriver but this is awkward when it comes to angle tightening the bolt on reassembly (I work on my own). The Haynes manual shows a DIY flywheel locking tool which I decided to make. The Haynes one has only one "tooth" I decided - without thinking too deeply about it - to make one with two teeth so it would be strong! (The bolt goes up really tight!). What I hadn't thought about was that a considerable degree of accurate filing is needed to make one with two teeth because you have to accurately replicate the pitch of the ring gear teeth! Anyway here, for your delectation and my satisfaction, is the device I made - which, of course I then didn't need as the seals weren't leaking!:

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Very nice job on that locking tool! I wish I were more capable when it comes to metalwork. I have a fully stocked workshop for working with wood but very limited when it comes to metal. Welding in particular is a skill I have yet to acquire but one I frequently could make use of. (Another job on the list for the 45/ZS is some under body welding for starters...) I certainly appreciate the difficultly in recreating the teeth too (I've made some wooden gears for jigs before), so you have my respect for getting it done!

babbo_umbro said:

Compliments, by the way, to the expertise shown by the replies on this thread

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I agree! Thanks again for all the replies and help guys. I've had the Panda on the road enough now to say with some confidence that the belt change seems to have been a success. No EMLs since clearing the initial 'camshaft assembly' intermittent fault code. Fingers crossed going forward...

I'm still not 100% sure what made attempt 1 a failure and attempt 2 a success, beside the fact that with the cam locking tool in place I was able to gain that half a tooth clockwise at the cam pulley and get better tension on that (water pump) side of the belt, something that wouldn't have been so easy without the tool holding the shaft in time for me. Although, perhaps that issue came about from the small amounts of counter-clockwise cranking of the engine causing backlash as murphy spoke of. Or I may have for some reason had to fit the belt with the VVT set in the 'advanced' position as per Jock's description of the system? Over my head, if I'm honest. Regardless, the car's back on the road and all seems well so thanks again for all the help and shared knowledge Jock and murphy!

I'm so glad for you that it all worked out in the end. So, at the end of the day, you did it without slackening off that cam sprocket bolt?

I was taught to gas weld in the late '60's whilst training to be a motor mechanic (got certificates and everything, ooooh!) and subsequently bought a BOC torch, regulators etc and hired the Portapac bottles. Then, as I settled into a life in the motor trade, I learned to arc weld and bought an SIP 140 Topweld. Finally, I think around the mid '80's I bought a Cebora 130 pocket turbo MIG and taught myself to MIG/MAG weld. It's been one of the most useful skills I've acquired during my life. From building my own trailer (some 30 years ago using the SIP and both trailer and welder are still doing fine) to reinforcing pedal clusters, repairing MOT failures and extracting broken studs it's saved me a small fortune and given me great enjoyment. I even ran my own evening classes (for community education) for around 10 years which completely offset the expense of the bottle rental. I returned my Portapac bottles a few years ago as they were proving an expensive luxury for the odd occasion on which I needed the gas - and my insurer was very unhappy with me having them!

I get great pleasure from welding things but lying on my back underneath a vehicle, trying to weld plates/panels into heavily corroded floors, box sections and sills whilst red hot molten underseal drips around your neck and forearms has long lost it's fascination for me. Luckily I have made friends with a chap who spends all his time welding up MOT failures. He pretty much does it all with gas and is an absolute artist with a welding torch. If one of the older family cars need attention of this sort I now tend to pass this sort of job on to him. Luckily his charges are very reasonable. - He seems to charge either £100, £150 or £250 depending on how big the job is. He has no workshop but hires ramp time from one of the small garages near me if he can't do it on stands.

As you will gather I'm a big fan of welding. It's great fun, very satisfying and saves you shed loads of money once you've bought your basic plant. If you're seriously into cars it's a very useful skill to learn. Oh, and buy a couple of nice big fire extinguishers - I have 5, at the last count!

Kindest regards
Jock